Anyone in here with Skunk 2 stage 1 cams experiencing the same or similar effects & problems? I am just wondering if it was normal...

I had just gotten my Skunk 2 stage 1 cams put into my type r motor, also using skunk 2 cam gears. Everything is set to Skunk 2 specs as far as retard & timing and valve adjustment except on fuel pressure which skunk recommends increasing fuel pressure by 5psi. Done on a cold motor.

The motor runs very strong and seemed like it would make even more power beyond 9K which was the max I had reved the cams up to so far. The motor idles a little rougher than usual as I would expect from bigger cams. I also noticed that my distributor is making louder noises. My valve are knocking louder too towards the distributor side, but I doubled check for a valve adjustment. The motor could barely idle with AC turned on, although it seems to idle fine with just the fan turned on - no AC running. My Alternator seems weaker than usual and I have a lot of light dims. My engine also seems to rock a little more even though I doubled checked and tighten all bolts and studs. All in all I am pretty happy with the Skunk 2 camshafts.

My B18C-R motor is completely stock, no aftermarket bolt ons except the skunk 2 stuff i'd mentioned, MSD plug wires, Denso IK16 Iridium plugs. I am running a JDM 98 ITR ecu. No check engine light problems. Timing belt was redone.

 

whats the question?

First of all, you really should have something to tune with. In this case I would recommend a VAFC since those cams arent too aggressive and probably only need some slight fuel adjustments. Running them on a stock ECU you are really not gonna benefit as much as if you had something to tune fuel with. Skunk2's recommended "specs" really are just a base starting point, and chances are your motor is not exactly the same as the motor(s) skunk2 did testing on to come up with their "specs".

Most importantly, I think, is you stop trying to rev to 9K and beyond on that set up, especially with nothing to tune with. Chances are you arent making any power that high anyway and you are just risking damage to the motor. And just because you have bigger cams doesnt mean your car cant idle like stock. So if yours ISNT idling like stock, then it obviously needs tuning. You need to hit up a dyno with a wideband and see what your motor is doing.

Do some research before you go buying and installing critical parts like this.

Also, how are you revving to 9K on a stock ECU?


Modified by RTW DC2 at 10:57 PM 3/28/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do some research before you go buying and installing critical parts like this. </TD></TR></TABLE>

S2 Stage 1's are little if not equal to stock ITR cams however just as RTW said any time you install anything not "bolt on" tuning is needed and first you need something that is "tunable", ie VAFC or Hondata etc.

Try not beating the **** out of your car untuned or something will go wrong...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats the question?

First of all, you really should have something to tune with. In this case I would recommend a VAFC since those cams arent too aggressive and probably only need some slight fuel adjustments. Running them on a stock ECU you are really not gonna benefit as much as if you had something to tune fuel with. Skunk2's recommended "specs" really are just a base starting point, and chances are your motor is not exactly the same as the motor(s) skunk2 did testing on to come up with their "specs".

Most importantly, I think, is you stop trying to rev to 9K and beyond on that set up, especially with nothing to tune with. Chances are you arent making any power that high anyway and you are just risking damage to the motor. And just because you have bigger cams doesnt mean your car cant idle like stock. So if yours ISNT idling like stock, then it obviously needs tuning.

Do some research before you go buying and installing critical parts like this. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Thanks for the info but I know I am going to need tunning & dyno and some sort of air/fuel management. I don't generally rev to 9K and I hardly will rev past 8000-8200K with my B18C-R. Only reason so was to test the new Skunk 2 cams out. As so many people say they are like CTR cams, will I say they certainly don't feel like it. I know, I used to own a B16B. These cams feel more aggressive than my stock ITR cams & CTR cams and VTEC pulls way harder and louder as expected. My idling is quite good actually, only a little rougher and I expected that. I felt an increased in mid range hp and high end hp right away. Tuning is a definate.

I really didn't go into this blinded, and am very aware of the possibilites. I just haven't gotten to it yet. My question was for ITR owners with similiar setups. The question was did their ITR's have some of the same effects & problems as I mentioned in my first post. I just wanted to know if that was normal or not for this type of setup... but then what is normal anyhow? I think these cams are an excellent upgrade and I wouldn't trade it for any other cams. Reliability as far as everyday driving looks good so far for me on these cams.

 

I have the same cams except with Toda Cam gears. I have stock idle and no issues on alternator or lights dimming. I do have it partially tuned with OBD1 Skunk2 chip, VAFC, FPR and cam gears but i need to go see SGT when I find some time for some hondata tuning. How far is it from Long Island.

The cams are close to stock but I would not drive hard with them without some extra fuel tuning with a VAFC or better. On the dyno my car was running lean with the rich Skunk2 program in VTEC. I needed to richen up the top level alot to get to a decent A/F ratio. I assume you would be leaner with a stock ECU.

AW

 

i just installed my s2s1 about 2 beeks ago and did the valve adjustment as well and have noticed my valves click a little more, but the problem i feel is that there are some obvious peaks and valleys in my power band...waiting on my header to get everything tuned...im gonna have to go with everyone else and say get it tuned and it'll prolly go away

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EKCivicR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I also noticed that my distributor is making louder noises. My valve are knocking louder too towards the distributor side, but I doubled check for a valve adjustment.Timing belt was redone.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Excessive valve train noise and a noisy sounding distributor are also symptoms of a loose timing belt. You might want to double check your timing belt tension.

 

i have the stage one's in my R and i have no problems at all. the valvetrain is a little noisier, but htat is about it. also, do a valve adjustment every 10-15,000 miles.