Hondata +VAFC?
Ok here is the situation, I may be adding a Drag Gen IV turbo kit to my current stock bottom end (While I look for an H22A1 to build) and because of my ECU I would probably have to use the older Hondata Stage 2b system instead of the s200. In the Stage 2b hondata it includes everything I need as far as programmability with the exception of VTEC control for $495, I already have a VAFC so instead of spending more for a stage 3b could I still use my VAFC to control VTEC engagement and use the hondata to control the fuel maps? I guess I would hate to get rid of my VAFC or have it be a useless piece of tuning equipment just to spend the money on something it already does. I am not interested in a VAFC hack because I want to be able to go above 10psi.
The other question is does anyone know which would be preferable for a mid boost FI build (15-22 psi) the open deck H22A4 (more plentiful and thus easier to find) or closed deck H22A1 (little harder to find but more durable?) or just a JDM H22A. Keeping in mind the compression ratio's in these motors is irrelevent because it will be more than likely getting the following work-over:
Darton forged sleeves
Forged ENDYN(Wiseco) 8.8:1 (90mm)Rollerwaves
Forged Crower rods
Crower Stage 2 Turbo cams with spring retainer kit
Any suggestions on the bottom/top end are appreciated, I plan on having Millennium do the machine work and assembly of the bottom end, I will be building the top end.
The other question is does anyone know which would be preferable for a mid boost FI build (15-22 psi) the open deck H22A4 (more plentiful and thus easier to find) or closed deck H22A1 (little harder to find but more durable?) or just a JDM H22A. Keeping in mind the compression ratio's in these motors is irrelevent because it will be more than likely getting the following work-over:
Darton forged sleeves
Forged ENDYN(Wiseco) 8.8:1 (90mm)Rollerwaves
Forged Crower rods
Crower Stage 2 Turbo cams with spring retainer kit
Any suggestions on the bottom/top end are appreciated, I plan on having Millennium do the machine work and assembly of the bottom end, I will be building the top end.
you can close an H22a4 deck with the darton race sleeves anyway so I don't really think it matters. I prefer the 98+ H22a4 blocks because they have 55mm larger crankshaft mains
Do you really need to control your VTEC engagement on a turbo car? Who cares? Sell it.
Do you really need to control your VTEC engagement on a turbo car? Who cares? Sell it.
what would make you need the old series? i think the only thing is being an automatic.
an s100 w/boost can be fitted for under 400. then you can sell your v-afc.
an s100 w/boost can be fitted for under 400. then you can sell your v-afc.
So if I am re-sleeving it won't matter wether I use an A1/A4 or JDM? cool, that makes it easier to find a bargain on another H22... I would have thought it would be good to keep VTEC so i could have the better low end torque and high end HP just magnified with turbo? Plus it would smooth out the power/torque curve. I plan on trying to build tis motor to put about 350-375 at the crank so I am thinking like 15psi which would put my power to weight ratio about the same as a corvette z06
(see where I am going with this?)
The reason for me needing a Stage 2b system is yes I have a sport shift prelude and would like to see if it's possible to beef it up, Level 10 has some kits but I have heard mixed beans about them. But I have kind of taken a liking to the tiptronic mode.
(see where I am going with this?)The reason for me needing a Stage 2b system is yes I have a sport shift prelude and would like to see if it's possible to beef it up, Level 10 has some kits but I have heard mixed beans about them. But I have kind of taken a liking to the tiptronic mode.
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