Yeah, nothing to do about Type R's, but I have a question about sway bars in general.

I took the front sway bar off the wagon a while ago due to a busted mount that was causing odd handling and tire wear. Got new mounts courtesy of Willard Volvo, and just now got around to reinstalling the front bar.

Now, does the suspension need to be loaded for final tightening? I've already put the bar on, but have not test-driven.

Any input would be appreciated

 

Yeah, the suspension should be loaded. At least that's what it says for the R in the helms. It would be a b!tch to get it done on the front sway...

 

Yea, you need to have the car with all 4 tires on the ground (or an alignment rack) to tighten the sway bar.

turbo brick?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eluder200K &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">turbo brick? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Nah, this is one of the non-turbo B23 sleds. Old-skool bricks

Thanks for the feedback. The mounts holding the bar to the frame are as tight as they're going to get. I'll retighten the links holding the bar to the a-arm tomorrow. Going to be a huge pain in the ***, since they're directly behind the hub, but we'll see what happens.

Thanks for the quick responses

 

Loading the suspension is easy.

I have two jacks. I put the car on four jackstands and the highest setting. Then put the wheels back on and then put the jacks under the wheels and pump until just slightly off the jack stands. Your suspension is now weighted and you have the jack stands their as a safety measure.

 

bah, just reach under the dam thing with your go-go gadget arms

 

Don't forget to put something equivalent to your body weight in the driver's seat, too. When I used to take my autocross RX-7 in to get the alignment set, I'd always sit in it while they messed with it. After all, you don't race the car by remote control...

 

can i add another stupid question to the list??

the sizes refer to the diameter or the circumference of the bar? i am assuming circumference because that uses a linear means of measurement, ie inches, feet, etc. and the sway bar gives you a measurement in mm....so am i right? thanks!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Art Vandeleigh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can i add another stupid question to the list??

the sizes refer to the diameter or the circumference of the bar? </TD></TR></TABLE>

USDM 23mm refers to the diameter of the bar. JDM 24mm is 1mm larger in diameter, but the effect it has it non-linear w.r.t. the difference in diamter.

 

Anyone pre-load their bars?
On my auto-x car, I had some room left that I could tighten the front bar, so I stood on each coner of the car while someone else tightned them more.

I'm not sure if its a smart idea or not. Probably not....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PNG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't forget to put something equivalent to your body weight in the driver's seat, too. When I used to take my autocross RX-7 in to get the alignment set, I'd always sit in it while they messed with it. After all, you don't race the car by remote control...</TD></TR></TABLE>



Somehow I don't think my '83 Volvo wagon is going to hit the track anytime soon. But that's good advice for someone prepping a race kaa