Pretted pissed off...

We were installing the water pump, and we torqued the bolts down to 104-inch lbs, according to the spec in the Haynes manual. 3 of the bolts broke in the block until we noticed.... ..we did this on a torque wrench that measued inch lbs, didnt use a ft-lbs wrench...can anyone agree that 104-inch lbs is the correct spec for the water pump-to-block bolts? This is really pissing me off because we are going to have to bring it somewhere to have it tapped properly and straight. Also, one of the bolts was brand new OEM for the water pump, so i don't think the problem came from old bolts. Also, can anyone confirm which holes the big bolts go in and which holes the shorter bolts go in? I know this didnt cause the breaks because we used a smaller one in the hole that is open-back and that one broke as well....this sucks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jmagner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pretted pissed off...

We were installing the water pump, and we torqued the bolts down to 104-inch lbs, according to the spec in the Haynes manual. 3 of the bolts broke in the block until we noticed.... ..we did this on a torque wrench that measued inch lbs, didnt use a ft-lbs wrench...can anyone agree that 104-inch lbs is the correct spec for the water pump-to-block bolts? This is really pissing me off because we are going to have to bring it somewhere to have it tapped properly and straight. Also, one of the bolts was brand new OEM for the water pump, so i don't think the problem came from old bolts. Also, can anyone confirm which holes the big bolts go in and which holes the shorter bolts go in? I know this didnt cause the breaks because we used a smaller one in the hole that is open-back and that one broke as well....this sucks</TD></TR></TABLE>

You dont need to go by torque specs on the waterpump, just put some honda bond on gasket and tighten bolts. Those 10mm bolts cant handle that much pressure so becareful

 

Maybe your right...but what the ****..there's specs for it, they should be used..and they break bolts? This sucks.

second thought: what the hell...of course your supposed to torque the friggen thing to the right specs. Theres no ****** way randomly tightening them down by feel works better than using correct specs, except in my case where the correct spec snaps bolts. Anyone else wanna chime in?

 

any thoughts?

 

wrench calibration, they can be out, did you get a click at 104?? thats like only 9 PSI thats like light hand tight with the tiny ratchet.

 

even tho practicaly eerything in the helms manual has torque specs its really not necessary to bust out the torque wrench on every 10mm bolt in the motor (ex....pick up tube, windage tray, oil/water pump, vavle cover, etc). use the torque wrench for the headstuds, cam bolts, flywheel, clutch, crank and rods, other than that put it away...

PS most larger torque wrenches arent really accurate till past 20ft/lbs, that could have been the culprit of the snapped bolts

 

ok sounds good, we figured for 60$, might as well torque everything, but this idea kinda defeats the purpose of an inch-lbs wrench..

oh well. now the part of removing the embedded bolts.

2 of them should come out easily, and one of them is a good 1/4" in there.

Hopefully drilling/tapping is a last resort

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99B16Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PS most larger torque wrenches arent really accurate till past 20ft/lbs, that could have been the culprit of the snapped bolts</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's why we purchased a smaller wrench that measured inch-lbs, specifically for smaller things.

 

Sears sells "Drill Out" bolt extractir kits for like $20. They only work good on larger bolts that aren't super tight, which sounds like your case. They are reverse threaded and work pretty good. Youll need to get at it straight on with a drill which might be a problem. Use the biggest drill out that will work.

 

Is it necessary to use silicon on there, I didn't see any when I removed the pump from my block the first time.

 

no its not necessary but if u re use an old seal its not a bad idea

 

yeah its mentioned in the haynes manual that u should use some gasket sealent

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jmagner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah its mentioned in the haynes manual that u should use some gasket sealent</TD></TR></TABLE>

Throw the haynes in the garbage and get a helms. Best investment you will ever have.

 

i snapped mine too.. what are my choices

1-drill out from sears
2-load the motor on a truck and go to a shop

 

they come out very easily

purchase a 5/64-in bit and the #1 craftsman screw extractor from sears

drill a small hole about 1 cm deep into the bolt and run the screw extractor in it with a drill in reverse

the hole into the bolt can be very short so you really dont have to worry about hitting a thread-wall if you can drill somewhat straight.

 

I've broken a couple of those waterpump bolts too... took my block to a machine shop to have them drilled out + retapped

 

stage2 did mine 4 , 200 bux

 

Can anyone confirm that thats the right torque specs according to the Helms. I used a haynes and did the exact same thing. It seems like thats too tight.

 

i used a small 3/8 impact rachet and torqued mine down to 9ftlbs and didnt break any bolts. gotta make sure you use the right bolts for the right hole because the bolts are different lengths

 

9 lbs is not that much so you must be careful. If you are doing it by hand, use only 1/4" or 3/8" short handle ratchet.
You asked which bolts go where...If you look at the threads of each bolt hole (in the engine block), 2 of the bolt hole threads are recessed 1/4" in the block. It is those 2 holes that take the longer bolts.
As to using gasket sealer, you never use gasket sealer with an o-ring. A rookie mistake that can actually hurt the sealing ability of an O-ring.