Camber Kit
Well, I'm lowering my car this weekend. 2.0 - 2.25 inches with the Neuspeed High Performance Race Springs. I have a 97 LX Sedan. I know I"m going to need a camber kit, but I need suggestions on which ones to use? Anyone have any experience with this? Lemme know
Thanks
Thanks
I'm not sure on brands. Just make sure that you get a camber kit and not ball joints! If you get ball joints you will have to cut your car to make room for the a arm to come threw the fender. You might not have to with a camber kit.
Welcome to H/T!
Welcome to H/T!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blondeaccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not sure on brands. Just make sure that you get a camber kit and not ball joints! If you get ball joints you will have to cut your car to make room for the a arm to come threw the fender. You might not have to with a camber kit.
Welcome to H/T!
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Both anchor bolt camber kits and the ball joint need to have the inner fender wall shaved as well as the a arm. What both kits do it press your a arm outwards so it can straighten the tire but leaving no space for the a arm to move.
If you are gonna drop it that much... You might not want to fully adjust the camber kit to 0 degrees because you will have clearance issues. I left mine with
-1 degree in the front, for purposes for some better turning and of course it still has a lot less camber than it did before. My drop is on Tein SS with like a 2" drop in the front and 1.8" drop in the rear
Oh yea i have ingalls (polyurethane) camber kit on mine
Welcome to H/T!
</TD></TR></TABLE>Both anchor bolt camber kits and the ball joint need to have the inner fender wall shaved as well as the a arm. What both kits do it press your a arm outwards so it can straighten the tire but leaving no space for the a arm to move.
If you are gonna drop it that much... You might not want to fully adjust the camber kit to 0 degrees because you will have clearance issues. I left mine with
-1 degree in the front, for purposes for some better turning and of course it still has a lot less camber than it did before. My drop is on Tein SS with like a 2" drop in the front and 1.8" drop in the rear
Oh yea i have ingalls (polyurethane) camber kit on mine
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skot_97LX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how uneven is the wear going to be at -1?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It depends on how you drive but you will wear..
It depends on how you drive but you will wear..
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skot_97LX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how uneven is the wear going to be at -1?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The will be some wear but it will be a lot less than not having one on at all. Like i said.. if your're going to put it back to 0 degrees... You're going to have big clearance issues.
The will be some wear but it will be a lot less than not having one on at all. Like i said.. if your're going to put it back to 0 degrees... You're going to have big clearance issues.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skot_97LX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Will I need front and rear kits?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup
you'll need both
Yup
you'll need both
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by baGged93aCcord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yup
you'll need both</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you refer to the accord basic guide in iam7heads suspension write up you could do the "washer" trick. Oh and after you get your camber kit make sure and get it adjusted along with an alignment
.
Yup
you'll need both</TD></TR></TABLE>If you refer to the accord basic guide in iam7heads suspension write up you could do the "washer" trick. Oh and after you get your camber kit make sure and get it adjusted along with an alignment
.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95Accordster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go with ingalls...i think its the rubber one, search yahoo for ingalls, get the one that doesnt require lube. HA! lube is good for some interesting stuff! </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you want performance oriented camber kits... go with the ones with polyurethane bushings
If you want performance oriented camber kits... go with the ones with polyurethane bushings
From my experience....Go with the Ingalls camber adjusters Front and Rear with the Poly bushings. (I personally Don't use the polys) .
Too much trial and error crap with the washer trick. Easier and more accurate to use the Ingalls during the re-alignment process instead of removing the wheels, removing the bolts, stacking more or removing washers on the bolts, reintalling everything and then checking alignment again, etc. etc etc.
They make 2 different Front Ingalls kits,.........You will probably need the +0 to +3 degree kits for the front with all that drop. The other range kit might not give you enough positive camber (only about -1 1/2 to +1 1/2 ???). If you get the wrong range kit, most dealers with let you swap them out.
During the re-alignment.......I am running no more than 1 to 1 1/4 degrees negative overall on the front and about -0.5 on the rear. Make sure your toe is correct!
Also it's a smart idea to change your struts out at this time....... if you haven't already. Saves a lot of time and another alignment later.
Too much trial and error crap with the washer trick. Easier and more accurate to use the Ingalls during the re-alignment process instead of removing the wheels, removing the bolts, stacking more or removing washers on the bolts, reintalling everything and then checking alignment again, etc. etc etc.
They make 2 different Front Ingalls kits,.........You will probably need the +0 to +3 degree kits for the front with all that drop. The other range kit might not give you enough positive camber (only about -1 1/2 to +1 1/2 ???). If you get the wrong range kit, most dealers with let you swap them out.
During the re-alignment.......I am running no more than 1 to 1 1/4 degrees negative overall on the front and about -0.5 on the rear. Make sure your toe is correct!
Also it's a smart idea to change your struts out at this time....... if you haven't already. Saves a lot of time and another alignment later.
The KYB AGX's are a fairly good value for their 'cost vs performance' if you can find them at a good discounted price. I think I paid about $350 for my set ... but that was quite a few years ago. Good luck!
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