On Wednesday night my car was running fine, but on Thursday it wouldn't start. Come to find out that it is a spark problem. I've read every thread for "no spark-car won't start" and I've tried everything I found in those threads and now I am stumped. Here is what I have tried so far: Checked all fuses-they are good, checked all grounds I know of (negative battery terminal, tranny to body, thermostat and valve cover- did I miss any ?) all of those are good, tried two different distributors and three different ignitors (two of which are known to be working), switched ecu's and tested the tolerences inside the distributor and everything is fine but still no spark. If anybody has any other ideas feel free to let me know. I also know that it is getting fuel and it cranks and the timing belt is not broken. HELP! Thanks in advance.

 

how did you check the fuses? with a test light?

 

main relay probably, very typical, search.
-PHiZ

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PHiZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">main relay probably, very typical, search.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Main relay is fine it clicks when ignition is on and the fuel pump primes. Thanks though. bump

 

bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dampachi_EH3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Main relay is fine it clicks when ignition is on and the fuel pump primes. Thanks though. bump</TD></TR></TABLE>

To be fair, there are 3 relays in the main relay, but if the fuel pump is coming on, I would look for the problem elsewhere, but the main relay is easy to pull and test. Any new CELs ?

-PHiZ

 

no mil codes at all...

 

Okay just so every one knows I just replaced the main relay and all fuses relevant to the ignition and it still doesn't get any spark... STUMPED...

 

So here's a recap of what I have replaced so far: Distributor (twice), ignitor (three times), coil (three times), all relevant fuses, main relay... still no spark but getting power in the distributor... bump!

 

start simple. start with what you know and whats definate. if you know you have no spark out of the wires, test at the coil. no spark out of the coil, check for power and drive. if you have power and the coil is being driven to ground but no spark you are done. slam a coil. if you have no drive from the ignitor, check for power, ground and signal at the ignitor. if you have power, ground and the ignitor has a signal from the PCM, but no coil drive out. throw in an ignitor. if there is no signal to the ignitor from the PCM, figure out why. TDC and Crank i beleive are what the computer needs to derive the signal sent out the the ignitor. make sure both are there, make sure that the PCM has everything it needs to function (power and ground), if the PCM has everything it needs to generate the signal to the ignitor, slam a PCM. if any of the CKP or CID or TDC signals is bad, replace the distributor. now the fact that you have slammed everything makes me lean towards wiring. trace back in the order that i just told you and see how far you get. be especially cautious if you diagnose a bad PCM, because often PCM's go out due to high current flow. so if the PCM shows up bad, ohm out every solenoid and actuator on the car. one bad solenoid, actuator or motor can easily fry a PCM, so you can slam them all day long and get nowhere. good luck.

 

Tap the starter with a hammer?
-PHiZ

 

could be dist. base but test everything first

 

yea but the thing that gets me is that the car was fine one day, then doesn't get any spark what so ever the next, with no signs of failing- the car didn't mess up when I was driving it, but rather while it was sitting...

 

bump

 

still no spark... bump...

 

Again a recap of what I have done:
I have changed the following:

Distributor- twice
Ignitor seperatly from the dizzy- three times
Coil seperately from the dizzy- three times
Main relay
All fuses
ECU

Note: ALL OF THE ABOVE PARTS WHERE TESTED ON ANOTHER VEHICLE, THEN IMMEDIATELY SWITCHED BACK TO MY CAR- THEREFORE I KNOW THAT THEY ARE GOOD.

Also, you guys have to remember that this happend all of a sudden, not gradually so it isn't going to be something like a bad rotor or cap. It must be somewhere electrical, but so far nothing has be found to make the car run.

Thank you guys all very much for your help so far, but I am still stumped. I am goiong to check the input to the ignitor while cranking the motor tonight and I will post up the results later.

 

good luck

 

thanks! bump

 

bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLAME_canada &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Again a recap of what I have done:
I have changed the following:

Distributor- twice
Ignitor seperatly from the dizzy- three times
Coil seperately from the dizzy- three times
Main relay
All fuses
ECU
</TD></TR></TABLE>

what about plugs? they may have fouled really bad from all the unsuccessful starts.
Have you pulled a plug, put the wire on it and ground the tip to see if it fire ?
maybe you did fix it but they are fouled Be careful trying this!

 

I am checking before the plugs so they are ruled out...

I just did a test while cranking the car and the ignitor is getting between 8.96-9.02 volts. Is this normal?

 

any shorted wires in your harness? If a main power wire burnt it can cause that!

 

k, this is for the ignitor just to make sure your getting power to it. with the ignition on check for volts between the blk/yel wire and ground. then there should be continuity between the wht wire and body ground. then there should be a blk/yel wire going the coil, make sure that has battery volts too. if you dont get volts to the blk/yel wires do a continuity test between the blk/yel wires and the ignition switch, if there is continuity then check the wht/blk wire going to the ignition switch, there should be volts, if there is then its your ignition switch.

this is how i am coming to this conclusion, my diagram shows a wire going from battery to fuse #31 and #32 via wht/blk to the ignition switch, from the ignition switch a blk/yel wire goes to the coil and igniter.

 

civickiller- I have already done that, you are like the 20th person to tell me this lol. Read the thread.

Bump