JDM type r swap in my Ek , what should i change? I already changed spark plugs, what else should i change?(maintenance wise)

 

change? maintenence wise? performance upgrades? thats a very vauge question

 

jdm dc 4-1 header with 2.5 inch collector , reprogrammed p28 with a harness adapter , good cat-back , i mean this is what i would do if i was going all motor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Robzible &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jdm dc 4-1 header with 2.5 inch collector , reprogrammed p28 with a harness adapter , good cat-back , i mean this is what i would do if i was going all motor </TD></TR></TABLE>


um. a "JDM" DC 4-1 header is a copy of the "JDM" ITR header. wouldnt it already have that?

*edit* 2000 Type R swap. ITR? CTR?

 

well ******* only if its a jdm engine , it says just got 2000 type r swap in my ek , where in that topic do you see anything about jdm type r ??????????????<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChkN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


um. a "JDM" DC 4-1 header is a copy of the "JDM" ITR header. wouldnt it already have that?

*edit* 2000 Type R swap. ITR? CTR?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek4b18c_r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">JDM type r swap in my Ek , what should i change? I already changed spark plugs, what else should i change?(maintenance wise)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Right in his first post hero

 

haha true , oh well so maybe i did eat my own **** on that , still yet though , when engines and clips are shipped over stuff has been known to be robbed on the way over , so i will correct myself , if it doesnt already have one , purchase one

 

well actually the 4-1 JDM type R header was found on the 98 JDM itr...the other year JDM itr came with a cast 4-1 instead of the tubular desieng of the 98

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16aEGcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well actually the 4-1 JDM type R header was found on the 98 JDM itr...the other year JDM itr came with a cast 4-1 instead of the tubular desieng of the 98</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm , i didnt know that , but now that you mention it , majority of the swaps i have looked at in the past have had a manifold more so like the usdm ones , i figured they were just ganked along the way , but apparently not , glad u said somethin so now i will know

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Robzible &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha true , oh well so maybe i did eat my own **** on that , still yet though , when engines and clips are shipped over stuff has been known to be robbed on the way over , so i will correct myself , if it doesnt already have one , purchase one </TD></TR></TABLE>


you also need to stop calling people ******** expecially when they are right. and how have my posts warranted calling me an *******? you jumped the gun telling him to get **** he may already have instead of asking making YOU the *******

 

riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii iiiight , anyway .. u still are an ******* , i mean i dont know how much better i could put it that i was wrong about it , u should do somethin like take a look at your avatar , turn the gun around , and shoot yourself in the face

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Robzible &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm , i didnt know that , but now that you mention it , majority of the swaps i have looked at in the past have had a manifold more so like the usdm ones , i figured they were just ganked along the way , but apparently not , glad u said somethin so now i will know </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah...I have the 98 JDM type R 4-1 that is why I know...hehe

 

cool deal , thanks for the info man

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Robzible &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight , anyway .. u still are an ******* , i mean i dont know how much better i could put it that i was wrong about it , u should do somethin like take a look at your avatar , turn the gun around , and shoot yourself in the face </TD></TR></TABLE>

Look bro if you want to go around ruining topics with your bullshit do it on another message board.

If you post one more unprovoked attack on someone else you won't be here long enough to do it again - is that clear?

We are here to share and learn from each other, not go around picking lame e-fights over nothing.

For the record the only ******* in this topic has been YOU thus far.

 

BTW:

All pre-98 spec JDM R engines have a cast iron manifold with a steel a-pipe with a 2.5'' collector still.

From 98-up they ran the JDM tubular header with uit's 2.5'' collector.

As far as the Dc version being a mere "copy of the JDM R" that's not correct either. When dyno'd on the same engine in the same car, on the same dyno, same day the DC has outpowered the Honda header across the entire rpm range and even more so in the peak numbers.

Do a search for "the great header test" in the Type R forum under "archived" topics and see what I mean.

I'm currently running my B18C5 with a Kenji-chipped P28, AEM CAI for 99-00 Si, DC JDM 4-1 header, gutted Carsound cat (not by choice), Tanabe Super Medallion Racing Spec exhaust, V-AFC, fuel pressure regulator, Skunk2 cam gears, CTR race pulley (after dyno though), and tuned on the dyno it pulled 176whp with 130ft-lbs. of torque.

What those raw peak numbers don't tell you is the huge fat-*** midrange gains I gto from FPR/V-AFC tuning. I netted +20whp and +20ft-lbs. of torque to the wheels from tuning alone! The difference is crazy.

I'll post the chart once We-Todd comes back up.

 

haha tell em tom. And for maintenence wise. When doing a swap a lot of people will change timing belt, water pump and all the other stuff your supposed to change at 60k just incase.

 

is that all everyone does on here is argue . . . how bout sumone tell this kid what

he needs to do?? imo ..... spark plugs(which u did), timing belt, oil (synthetic),

brake fluid, baiscly check all of your fluids see if they are what they are suppose

to be ( dont know them off the top of myhead) , check your belts to see if any

cracks or anything. hope that helped you hopefully someone with a lil more

knowledge will know more ..........

any pics of the swap???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Happyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha tell em tom. And for maintenence wise. When doing a swap a lot of people will change timing belt, water pump and all the other stuff your supposed to change at 60k just incase. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not to get knit-picky, but really T-Belt and waterpumps are changed at 90K usually.

If the swap has anywhere near 50K I'd mark my odometer and keep track of it and then swap the T-Belt/Waterpump at 90K or so.

For now I'd make sure in addition to the plugs you do rotor button, valve adjustment, valvecover gasket, sparkplug tube seals, and maybe distributor cap. Wires are probably just fine as they tend to last about 150K or longer.

Not trying to be argumentative Happyman - 60K isn't a bad idea, but I think it might be a bit overcautious.

 

I personally change the oil pump, timing belt, plugs, and check the plug wires for damage(Like Tom stated, these things last for a long time). I also change the cap and button. Then for the best performance do a valve job. I find this to be the best prep for a motor from Japan.

 

thanks for info everyone pics of swap coming soon

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Look bro if you want to go around ruining topics with your bullshit do it on another message board.

If you post one more unprovoked attack on someone else you won't be here long enough to do it again - is that clear?

We are here to share and learn from each other, not go around picking lame e-fights over nothing.

For the record the only ******* in this topic has been YOU thus far.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah eat dick!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Robzible &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah eat dick!</TD></TR></TABLE>
u should ask everyone else who back talked tom with **** like that and see what happened to them. oh wait...they're not here anymore... its one thing to bash me. but bash a moderator? haha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Robzible &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah eat dick!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Poof!

Where'd the piece of **** go?

 

what kind of plugs did you get? I like my denso iridiums alot. THey helped as much as my intake did probably.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not to get knit-picky, but really T-Belt and waterpumps are changed at 90K usually.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

it actually depends on your climate.. if you live in what honda considers an "extreme" climate... one that gets hotter than like 100 and colder than 20 or something.. then you are supposed to change them at 60k..