So, I guess my handling on my 88 CRX sucks **** since . . . well lets see, FOREVER! Well, I have axles that are about gone, and I'm sure every single bushing is shot to hell. So, what is a good/make me ********** setup that will let me feel like I'm driving an autocross champ?

What are your setups and what did they cost? I have pepboys shocks and H&R Sport springs, but I think my struts may be messed up. Homemade mods are good, but I'm leaning more towards the purchase and bold-on type of setups, since I don't have another car to fall back on just in case I F*** up on a frankenstein.

Thanks.

 

"sucks ****" is a little too vague to troubleshoot. People can throw you all sorts of setups but that doesn't mean any of them will target your problem. Perhaps you could be a little more specific with what's wrong, and what you need it to do better, and what you use this car for.

 

Well, basically, I'm all over the road when I 1) take a turn with some speed, 2) give some gas from a stop, into a turn, I'm almost drifting (would that be torgue steer? Not that my d16 has torgue.) Of course, the axles knock when I turn either direction.

With every little nook in the road, my car responds with "sqeek, grind, "metal knocking metal sound", etc. At high(er) speeds 65+, when I switch lanes, I'm floating around and I can feel the grooves in the road pulling me around.


I'm not sure this info helps. I hope it does. This wasn't really supposed to be a "I have a problem with my suspension" thread, I just don't know if CRX's were great handlers to begin with. Where they? I know mine isn't. Then again, it's been what, 17 - 18 years?

Thanks for the reply. Any new info?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by didyouhearthat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Then again, it's been what, 17 - 18 years?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, that's a huge part of the problem for all CRX drivers. People get the impression that OEM bushings are junk compared to polyurethane bushings, but the reality is that ANYTHING is better than 15 year old OEM bushings. Do yourself a favor and look the bushings over and replace as needed. OEM bushings are fine for most applications. I have had good experience with Mugen and Prothane bushings in the rear. Be sure to include your trailing arm bushing. Replacing both front axles before you have a CVJ failure isn't a bad idea either. Then, once you have the damaged stuff out of there you can focus on the rest of your suspension and improve it to your liking.

 

Thanks Travis. So, lets say I would be replacing all of the worn/broken parts with OEM or "stock" parts. Would any other upgrades after that be compromised by the stock parts? I just don't want to go and spend money on "fixing" these problem areas, only to end up spending more replacing the new parts with upgrades.

For info purposes, I plan on keeping a d16 in it. I love the rex, and I'd like to hang on to it, but if I can't get this thing running/riding smooth, I may just look the other way.

 

just replace the whole suspension... and you'll be iight.......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just replace the whole suspension... and you'll be iight....... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly what i'm doing.
1. Replacing all my bushings
2. Koni F/R
3. GC 400F/450R + Honda Mounts
4. 22mm Rear Sway Bar
5. Replacing Wheel Bearings
6. New Wheel Studs

Mind you i'm trying to enter the world of SOLO2

 

speaking of bushings, how exactly are you suppose to take the bushing out? i tried taking a bushing out of my LCA and it was basically stuck there, just got the inside out but the outer part was basically stuck and i believe that was metal unless that metal part was part of the LCA. But does anyone know a fast and efficient way to take out the bushings?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by didyouhearthat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks Travis. So, lets say I would be replacing all of the worn/broken parts with OEM or "stock" parts. Would any other upgrades after that be compromised by the stock parts? I just don't want to go and spend money on "fixing" these problem areas, only to end up spending more replacing the new parts with upgrades.

For info purposes, I plan on keeping a d16 in it. I love the rex, and I'd like to hang on to it, but if I can't get this thing running/riding smooth, I may just look the other way.</TD></TR></TABLE>

As far as bushings go, the difference between a good street setup and a good autocross/roadrace setup is pretty minimal (I can't say anything about a good drag setup, FYI, since I have no experience). There are times when the OEM bushings are actually more expensive than Mugen. I'm using Mugen RTA bushings, Prothane bushings for the rear LCAs, compensator arms, and rear inner upper CAs. My rear outer upper CAs are solid offset bushings for more camber. The sway bar bushings in the rear are ES, as are the shifter bushings. Everythign else in the car is fresh OEM encluding the entire front suspension. Anywhere you keep the OEM bushings, Mugen might be a little better but compare the prices. Mugen bushings are really ideal since they have the same geometry as OEM and are made from a harder rubber (harder than OEM) compared to poly which can be so hard it binds. My only real advice is that you shouldn't just blindly replace everything in your car with the ES master kit. Most competitive racers I have spoken with are not pleased with this route. My setup reflects a lot of research, but my car is a trailered track car so street use is not a concern.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by katb16vo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> But does anyone know a fast and efficient way to take out the bushings?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I used a 20-ton shop press to do all of my bushings. Very fast.

 

just a quick qeustion for you, have you got an allignment lately? at all? what your saying sounds like what mine felt like b 4 i got it alligned. maybe you should look into that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4inspeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just a quick qeustion for you, have you got an allignment lately? at all? what your saying sounds like what mine felt like b 4 i got it alligned. maybe you should look into that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, I haven't done an alignment. While on the subject, before I replaced the shocks/springs, the person who owned the car before me had cut the springs. The Tire wear was a nightmare, so I assume he didn't align it.

Now with my new springs/shocks, I am at about stock height, as well as new tires. I've been on them for some time now and I definitely see a difference in wear compared to the tires I had on before. It's not as bad, assuming that ride height is the main reason. I'm sure I am due for an alignment, I just want to get the setup first.

Travis, I'm not going to drag race and I probably will never AutoX. Do you have any estimates between a "street" and "autox" setup and is there a huge difference in handling, lets say, would a race setup impare daily street driving ability? Thanks. I hate to nag you, so if you don't have the info, I'll still love you. This is open to anyone else who as info as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by didyouhearthat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Travis, I'm not going to drag race and I probably will never AutoX. Do you have any estimates between a "street" and "autox" setup and is there a huge difference in handling, lets say, would a race setup impare daily street driving ability? Thanks. I hate to nag you, so if you don't have the info, I'll still love you. This is open to anyone else who as info as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, when it comes to street setups, I question anyone's ability to out-engineer Honda. The R&D that went into their OEM bushings is far superior than anything anyone else has done for street cars. So for a daily driven street car that feels good to drive, I would stick with as many OEM bushings as I could afford. However, replacing the OEM bushings can get very expensive. If I were you, I would check the RTA and front radius rod bushings first and replace as necessary. The RTA bushings are commonly destroyed in 15 year old CRX's and fixing them makes a world of difference. 4inspeed also brings up a good point. Make sure you get an alignmemt done. As for the good "street" suspension setups, I'll leave that to the rest of the board. I have never driven my CRX on the street.