Ok, so I have had an idle probelm for some time now. Where it will jump from 750rpm to 1500rpm over and over again. Also, if im moving and I depress the clutch the revs will drop down to about 1200rpm and stay there until I come to a complete stop. Then it will start reving from 750rpm to 1500rpm again. It will also sometimes bog like a mother f$%ker. Im going to list the things I have checked/replaced already.

1.New IACV from Honda
2.New Alternator
3.New TB with all new sensors, TPS, FITV.
4.New Thermostat/Bled coolant.
5.New Fuel Filter
6.Checked all hoses for vacuum leaks/replaced all vacuum line hoses with new ones.
7.New Spark Plugs.

Would a cloged CAT cause these problems, or a faulty O2 Sensor? Its not throwing any CEL codes btw.

Modified by JDM-Vic at 5:26 AM 3/22/2004


Modified by JDM-Vic at 7:19 PM 3/22/2004

 

Is this only at idle or do you have problems with boggin out during accerleration as well?

 

It bogs all the time, 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th gears. Its bogs the worste when the idle problem is the worste. So I think there both related.

 

list all your mods

 

how old is the fuel pump?

 

I am having a simular problem and I have been doing some reserch and haveing checked all the basic stuff like you have I have come down to thinking and reading that it is either bad fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, and or bad injectors

 

Mods are a bone stock JDM B16A. No intake, no exhaust. Stock Fuel pump from the D16Z6.

 

BUMP, and a pic to get people to come help out!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-Vic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mods are a bone stock JDM B16A. No intake, no exhaust. Stock Fuel pump from the D16Z6.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think there lies your problem right there, not 100% sure

I wouldnt think a d series fuel pump can help push enough fuel for a b series...

I'm ''saying'' a bad fuel filter or bad fuel pump

 

check your fuel filter
i had a similar problem once and that was the root of my troubles

also make shure that your IM gasket is not leaking and that your intake mani is bolted down securely


but to me it sounds like a fuel delivery issue
try installing a new fuel filter and if that brings no avail
install an integra fuel pump and tell me how it works out

 

I have no idea how modifed your engine is right now so it's awfully hard to guess without
taking a look. Any stock engine with a surge like yours, the first place I look is the coolant level. If the level is okay (the coolant temp sensor is not in an air pocket), the second place a look is base idle.

There's really too many things that could be wrong that would cause your problems. Be sure never to adjust the THROTTLE STOP SCREW (the screw towards the bottom of the throttle body). Only adjust the idle screw (the flat-head tip screw at the top of the throttle body opening).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Usdmdc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think there lies your problem right there, not 100% sure

I wouldnt think a d series fuel pump can help push enough fuel for a b series...

I'm ''saying'' a bad fuel filter or bad fuel pump</TD></TR></TABLE>


well i have a crx w/ b16 and stock fuel pump, had it on there for 200k miles almost. stock pump, and about 20k w/ the b16, same with a couple of the other people i know.

check your fuel filter and o2's, i know mine had a bog and it was a bad o2. might not be your idle problem though.

 

Oh yeah, I changed my fuel filter about 2 weeks ago as well.

If it was an O2 Sensor problem should unpluging it make the boging go away?

 

^

 

what ecu are u running?

 

P30

 

up

 

Have the same problem going nuts. Next thing I try is going to be trying a chipped p28 to see if it's the ecu.

I haven't done the o2 but that doesn't correct the idle in any way. Can you make some friction on the clutch and calm it down with some work. Mine you can.

I replaced the fuel filter as well and it helped the overall but nothing else. Note I've swapped this into both my hatchs one hatch has a 255 walbro the other stock issue was on both of them.

You I assume checked for vacuum leaks, maybe the fast idle mechanism? I checked mine already and it's working fine.

You pull your plugs and check the slugs to ensure you don't have a bad headgasket?

Good luck man I'll continue my work with mine as well. We both have the same problem. I also have a jdm b16a SIR2 cast block of 93.

 

I replaced my spark plugs 3 weeks ago. And when I took the old ones out they looked fine. No oil on them, or anything. I have aftermarket wires, could these be causing a problem?

 

^^

 

free bump http://old.hugi.is/fyndnar/fridaynight3-1.wmv

 

i had/have the same problem..and ive heard if its really bad it can be the ecu, also ive heard of someone who had this problem and found out it was because he was running an auto ecu

 

^^^

 

In order for the idle speed to be higher than normal, the motor has to have a source for air. Pull your intake off the TB and you will see various holes that are just outside the throttle blade. These are the supply holes for the FITV and the EACV. With the engine running, put your finger over each of these holes and see if you can bring the idle down to normal. Once you find which passage is allowing the excess air, you can focus more on the correct fix. For instance, if the passageway for the FITV being blocked, brings the idle down to normal, check the coolant hoses for proper flow and make sure theres no air in the cooling system. If blocking the air supply to the EACV brings the idle down to normal, start by checking the TAS (TPS) for the correct "closed throttle voltage" (around .5 volts). Also dont forget, the PCV valve "flow" is part of your minimum idle speed. Pinch the vacuum hose while the engine is running and see how much the idle speed drops. When you said it goes from 1500 rpm to a lower rpm, does it do it in a constant rythm ??? Like up/down/up/down......3gdude

 

I plug the FITV hole and it still idles rough, I plug the IACV hole and the engine dies. I bleed the coolant again with the rad cap off for about 20 mins, and still idles rough.