UPDATE PAGE 2

Alright, I wanted to make sure things were going good my my new motor I just swaped in so what better way then to hit the dyno.

The engine is a 1st Gen B16 from a Integra Xsi with the JDM YS1 tranny. I have a short ram intake, DC 4-2-1 header, 2.25 inch cat and Apexi WS cat back.

Everything else is stock. I just wanted a baseline. I would have expected a little more though, since this "should" be the 170hp motor. But a lot of stuff comes into play.

I had 92 Octane gas, just changed oil, new plugs and wires, cleaned K&N etc.

http://www.jandtperformance.com/img/dyno0002.JPG

So I dunno...is this what I should be at? I could have screwed around with timing etc. but it's getting boost in a month...not really worth squeezing 5hp right now. :D


Modified by Jays91DXhatch at 4:04 AM 3/21/2004


Modified by Jays91DXhatch at 1:47 PM 3/29/2004

 

maybe you need to play with the timing and have her tunned with some fuel managment good luck

 

Jay did you ever figure out why you werent really hearing your vtec engage is it fine now where did that all end up for you?

 

Looks like its struggling up top, I know most b16s I've rode in pulled right up to the 8k mark, yours is dropping like 7200, you should have a good 10 more max hp which I dont think is there becuase of whatevers causing your motor to choke....once you get your turbo on and get some good fuel management you should be fine.

 

Yeah, it could be a couple things. I checked the oil pan and it may be a little dented, just slightly.

Also it seems to be running pretty rich, maybe the fuel pressure needs to be played with.

You can tell by the graph that Vtec is indeed engaging at around 5000rpm.

But yeah, when I get the turbo on there I'll have fuel computer and the adjustable fuel pressure regulator etc. so I'll be able to tune it.

Timing was set at the middle mark on the crank pulley, so that would be I think 16 degrees.? Maybe putting it to 18 would make that difference..either way, that will all get worked out with turbo. :D

 

on you dyno chart it looks like vtec kicked in late try a lower setting on your vafc if you have one if not get one helps control fuel curve and vtec

 

I got 145hp and 105tq with my JDM B16 with just I/H/E so it's just a little low but I'm sure you'll get it worked out.

 

nice bro!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek4hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice bro!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
means my 121 whp and 107 wtq SOHC VTEC is awesome then

i even have more tq to the wheels during the whole powerband.. than he did... doesnt mean its bad, but SOHC seems to put down a more even tq curve

 

maybe auto cams/ecu?

 

do you know how many miles were on the motor when you got it?

 

check timing/fuel, looks to be ignition failing or just running pig rich. try to have a wide-band A/F monitor next time you dyno charted as well. Check plugs, advance timing a few degrees all motor. Still seems like a good motor you got there though, good luck,
JCC

 

thats a pretty low figure. when my b16 was stock w/ I/H/E and cam gears...it dynoed @ 140 @ 7800 w/VTEC Controller

 

better check compression as well. maybe it could be an old motor

 

Seems low to me... Mine dyno'd 141 @7700. I also have the b16a1 from 91 XSi

My car is running really rich also..

I would say auto cams also or low compression...

Have you checked it yet??

 

Compression is ~192PSI accross all cylinders. :D

I'll double check the timing.

Would a Auto ECU make that much differece? And if yes, can a VAFC be tuned to void this difference?

Anyone have a graph of their 140whp B16A so I can compare?

 

but can you hear and feel the vtec fireing? what type of oil are you using? the older jdm vtec motors run best on full synthetic oil try that

 

Looks about rite for a first gen? First gen only put out 160hp,(if i remeber) 2nd put out 170. I just saw a guy get his EF hatch get dyno'd with a very similar set up. He put down 129whp(also a 1g B16). I have the same motor. Not dyno'd yet but, I'm expecting to see the same #'s. I'll dyno it and get back to ya.

 

here you go...I forgot we advanced timing .02 degrees...

check my air fuel....sh$tty with a capital S

Still I think your missing a good ten horse...

My only mod is thermal exhaust, no intake, or header yet

http://www.norcalcrx.org/dyno/joe.gif

 

Here's a link to my dyno!!
My dyno

The top is with just the motor, the second is with my old 55 dry shot!!

 

Yeah, that's interesting. Vtec engagement seems to be the same as both your dyno's but mine just start falling above ~6500rpm

I'm using 15W50 Synthetic oil....decided I wanted to try it. Mobil 1 for "performance driving" and good for "Japanese valve train requirements" Not sure if it's too heavy.

I'm trying to think what else can be hurting my performance. I'll try to bump up timing a little bit see what that gives.

Other then that, not sure what I can do. If my oil pressure decreases at higher RPM due to little bump on oil pan, could this affect vtec? Just enough to get less power?

I'll see if I can go buy a Oil pressure gauge today, need one anyways. This would help to find that out.

 

Don't think you can throw a turbo on and the problems will magically disappear. Your problems will be multiplied 10x.

P.S. Those numbers are weak

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maztur &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't think you can throw a turbo on and the problems will magically disappear. Your problems will be multiplied 10x.

P.S. Those numbers are weak</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the help.

And the reasons the problems would go away with turbo is:

-New oil pan, check oil pick up
-Adjustable Fuel pressure regulator with gauge, tune fuel pressure
-VAFC or some other fuel computer, tune fuel delivery

With my compression numbers, it can only be one of the above really. It's not the motor.

So I'm pretty sure that with these out of the way the car will run much better.

I just don't see the point in doing all that right now, just to get my 10whp NA to "be up to par" and then turbo it in a month.

Unless someone suggests that this may not be my problem.

 

And the reasons the problems would go away with turbo is:

-New oil pan, check oil pick up
-Adjustable Fuel pressure regulator with gauge, tune fuel pressure
-VAFC or some other fuel computer, tune fuel delivery

With my compression numbers, it can only be one of the above really. It's not the motor.

ok like i said before it prolly is your motor, if you have AUTOMATIC cams then you dont have as much power, thats why your power drops sooo much about 7200 guess where the automatic cams loose power.... hmmm, just seems a little odd to me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4inspeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And the reasons the problems would go away with turbo is:

-New oil pan, check oil pick up
-Adjustable Fuel pressure regulator with gauge, tune fuel pressure
-VAFC or some other fuel computer, tune fuel delivery

With my compression numbers, it can only be one of the above really. It's not the motor.

ok like i said before it prolly is your motor, if you have AUTOMATIC cams then you dont have as much power, thats why your power drops sooo much about 7200 guess where the automatic cams loose power.... hmmm, just seems a little odd to me.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You could be right. Is this a common thing to have a motor with Automatic cams? I guess if someone got a replacement motor in Japan, put on the 5speed flywheel and clutch...that would be it.

any other way of knowing what cams I have?