Ok,
"Self-diagnosis LED indicator blinks four times: A problem in the CRANK circuit of the TDC/CRANK/CYL Sensor"

That's what helms says.
I've tried to understand their fixit tips.

The thing is, as the topic says... The distributor is new. I bought it and installed it yesterday. New dizzy, new cap, new rotor. Most of what this code implies is that the dizzy is dead. I don't have the car at my house now, I said screw towing it until I have to and left it at the 24 hour walmart. Yay! Luckily my parents just happened to drive buy, haha.

Any1 have any ideas of what this problem might be? I'm very, dunno what to say, shocked that this dizzy could be bad already? If I have to replace it that's one thing, they better frigging warrenty it (Advance Auto).

Need more info just ask. Please help me out, I've been getting hit with small costly stupid **** lately with this car, I'm about to just set the thing on fire.

 

Call it a hunch, but check and see if the rotor hasn't fallen out of place.

 

I was thinking about that. I don't know if you saw my last post, but it was because my car died and I found out the rotor fell out (screw broke) so hence I ended up with a new dizzy. But last time it didn't through any codes.
I'll definately check that, the car sounds exactly like it did the other day when it died too, same thing, just driving along, bogged for a second, and dead.
I hope that's all it is cuz like I said, new dizzy and all.


EDIT: Holy cow you were fast responding, haha. 2 minutes after the post! I have a feeling that's the problem cuz I kinda went easy on the screw to make sure I didn't break it. Maybe too easy...

 

Damn man you replaced the dizzy and now its fucked again......I dont know kinda sounds like becuase of that bad rotor before when I tried helping you it could have fucked with the TDC cyl. position sensor, What did you set your ignition timing to and did you use a timing light?

 

btw thinking you didnt tighten it enough is prob. not the case sense that screw is ony supposed to be torqed to 2 foot lbs. thats barely a flick of the wrist as long as you took it all the way and gave it a good tight half turn snugg it should be fine.

 

Didn't use a timing light. Set it to TDC, made sure the rotor was pointing at #1 like the book says, started up and ran fine. Due to my head milling and y8 gasket for a total of .051 off I retarded the cam gear about 3-4 degrees. Seemed to run fine.

If it's that sensor, then how do I go about fixing that? Isn't that in the dizzy itself?

 

Ok, went to the car.
Took of dizzy cap
Wierd piece of something inside the cap. Figured out it was part of the cap.
The rotor also had come off, screw came out.

Went to carquest, bought new cap.
Re-assembled everything.

Still no start. Reset the ecu, twice, and th code still comes up. Checked the plugs etc everything seems fine. My next course of action is to get the dizzy replaced.
But since it's saturday and no one in the state has em in stock, it'l take til monday. So in the mean time... How the hell do I fix this POS. I'm just waiting for my father to get home and start complaining about how I keep having problems and should get a new car and then I'm going to talk him into going shopping for a Del Sol...
So... Save the CRX! I love this car but I'm tired of it's crap.
Hehe, ok, done ranting. In all seriousness, it's starting to bug me and I'm getting tired of it, discouraged of course. Any help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks!

 

check the wiring.

 

So I got thinking to myself.
"The rotor fits on two ways.."
So my smart *** self went outside, took the cap and rotor off, turned the engine to tdc, figured out the way the rotor is supposed to go on (pointing at 1) and put it all back together...Blamo...Car started. Damnit I hate these stupid little things. I only wish I wasn't so frustrated at the walmart parking lot to have tried that.

 

Glad you figured it out. You learn a lot more that way. Even though it's the hard way.

 

Good job tiggs, I knew it had to be somthing simple and stupid, usually always is. Except you must have really pushed the screw in to that wrong hole cause on my rotor it was rather very noticable which side the screw goes in, one is much bigger and has a brass o ring in it, and the other is just a small hole...

oh well glad you got it figured out.

 

for some odd reason on this one it accepts the screw in either way. it's even kinda opened up at the top of each hole as to flatten it so it's easier for the screw to go in. The old dizzy wouldn't accept the screw in the wrong side but apparently this one does.

 

thats right I forgot you bought a new dizzy......well either way you fixed it and now you can diagnose 85% of no starts in honda's lol. Im serious.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kasper-EF8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> now you can diagnose 85% of no starts in honda's lol. Im serious. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah like when I drive around and it happens again! Haha. I haven't even taken it for a test drive yet cuz I don't want to get stranded somewhere again. Almost like a subconcious fear I have now. Damnit.

 

I was kinda like that after I replaced my rotor, so I just took the screw driver and torx bit with me and I made it to work fine, then from there after work I pulled my car in, and put some loctite blue on the screw and actually used my inch pounds torque wrench to make sure it was okay.

Ive beatin the living **** outta my car since then(mon.) and its fine....

 

yeah that's what I was thinking. I'm going to drive it and when I get to where I'm going I'll just pull the cap and check it etc and maybe get some locktite when I swing by the store. I think it'l be fine... Now this damn snow with my falken zi-ex 502's, that's another issue, haha.