i swapped a b16a in my 89 crx and it runs hot i was wondering if i need a bigger radiator. it cools down when driving but i temp goes up all the way when stopped

 

check to make sure your fans are turning on

i hooked mine up to a switch so i could have a little better control

 

ya the fan turns on but not till its at like the hot line

 

check your resistance at teh ECT and your thermo sensor they are both pnp type resisters, as temp. goes up resistance goes down and your fan will pop on.....sounds like one of them has two much resistance and its taking to much heat from the engine to turn them on..........also check out your resistance at teh fuel relay it might be gummed up/bad, causing higher current then normal to pop it on....

 

ok can you put that in lamin terms cause i didnt get a word you said

 

Man you installed your own engine and you cant understand the most simplistic requirments it takes to find electrical problems or even understand basic electrical theory?

No offense but damn....anyways Ill explain it tomorrow when im a little fresher, I locked my keys in my car tonight becuase Im a dumbass and now im friggin tired and a little aggrivated.

 

waitin

 

Alright Resistance the resistance to allow voltage to flow (voltage is the potential for power to flow)

The ect sensor and thermo sensor are mounted in the block/head different spots on diff. engines, when temp. are cool inside the block resistance is high.....which makes it harder for the fan circuit to complete a good solid path for voltage to flow and the fans will not turn on, when temp. go up resistance in the sensors goes down, allowing source voltage(12 volts or whatever your battery is putting out) to flow and this allows the relay(fan relay) to jump the gap it is needed to turn on the fans.

If for whatever reason it isnt turning on you either plain and simple have a bad relay or your ect or thermo sensor is bad. If you havent been running extremely rich you have no CEL's and your car is going into closed loop fine you can basically assume the ECT is okay since your computer looks at that while in open/closed loop, if its bad it will throw out a voltage the computer isnt cant comprehend (ECU has a set perameters for each sensor) and will think the engine is way to hot.....I.E. Dumping fuel to cool down the cylinders and decrease detonation.

Use a DVOM to check resistance at the ECT sensor the exact spec for good voltage on a warmed up car is ??? look on here or look in a manual I try not to remember exact numbers since I dont reference things that can easily be looked up.

It is most likely your thermo sensor, and its not really doing much of anything, you can however bypass all this and hook your main power wire for your fan to the battery and to a toggle swich and turn your fan on whenever you'd like

Same thing goes if your fans are just taking forever to turn on, theres to much resistance in most likely the thermo sensor itself or the circuit.

If you have anymore ?'s or I didnt explain myself in full just let me know.

 

YOU CAN JUST BYPASS THE FAN SWITCH BY UNPLUGGING IT AND JUST SPLICE THE 2 WIRES TOGETHER AND THE FAN FAN WILL RUN AS LONG AS THE KEY IS ON

 

if the car isn't running hot you don't want the fan sucking up power.

oh and if you play with the wiring on your keyboard you might be able to disable the CAPS LOCK problem you seem to be having

 

the fan kicks on but its when the temp is all the way up...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jsteezy1290 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the fan kicks on but its when the temp is all the way up... </TD></TR></TABLE>

You should learn to read everything I posted:
[QUOTE=It is most likely your thermo sensor, and its not really doing much of anything, you can however bypass all this and hook your main power wire for your fan to the battery and to a toggle swich and turn your fan on whenever you'd like[/QUOTE]

 

and here:
Same thing goes if your fans are just taking forever to turn on, theres to much resistance in most likely the thermo sensor itself or the circuit.

 

is there a way to check it

 

dude did you read my post I spent like 5 min. writing?

Go to the thermo sensor get a dvom put it on the sensor (it needs to be isoloated from the circuit so uplug it) and check your resistance. The book can tell you what a good resistance is on a warmed up engine.

 

UMMMMMM did you replace the thermostat . And did you purge air from the cooling system after the swap? May not be the cause, but can certainly aggrivate it.

 

what is a dvom in not very familiar with honda

 

dvom = digital multimeter

 

bring your car to a mechanic... you obviously don't know what your doing.

kasper...nice explaination.

 

watch your tone dude i know about cars just not about these rice burners... i figured the sensor was good since the **** turned the fan on... i think i will just take it out of my old motor cause i know that one worked

 

dude just hook up a toggle on it,that would be the easiest solution to the fan problem and cheaper than buying the new fan switch.and sorry about the caps in last post,I know Im retarded

 

dude stop sweatin it just put the dam thing on a toggle switch when you see the temp go up hit the switch

 

just change the damn thermo and see what happens.....dont ghetto rig **** like that....thats why i see so many crx and civic all fuged up because peeps want a simple fix....do it the right way the first time....

 

i bet its just the water pump...

see you say it cools when your driving because the pump is turning faster as the rpms go up.

just replace the thermo and waterpump along with timing belt and tensioner and you should be ok.

 

I was thinking it was the water pump myself at first, and not totally disclosing that assumption but most of the time on our cars when the water pump goes bad the seals leak, and the cooling effiecency goes down.

Im just telling you what to do based off personal experience, Im a technician man, Im not a shady tree mechanic, I dont work for some Joe's Garage place and although I dont suck the dealerships dick I do believe the best technicians are found there.

Mainly becuase I have any tool, book, and help from other senior master technicians at my disposal. Yeah I work on Fords but if you are mechanicaly inclined every car basically carries the basic same theory.

I like helping people, when I finally quit turning wrenches somday Ill prob. teach.....and Im more then happy to help you. You just need to read.....not to sound like an *** but what I said is the type of **** I do everyday and my comback rate is very minimal.....

Just chill out man were here for you.

PS&gt; I thought you said you replaced the thermostat? If you didnt then I would have said this from the begining did you install it? I hope you didnt install it backwards if you did.

If it was in backwards or wasnt working then you should have a cold(well it will be warm but not like it should be =hot) upper radiator hose, Your cooling system may even blow over and if you turn on your heat your temp. should go down, due to the help of coolant circulation.

If your tstat is stuck closed basically the coolant flows to the point where it finally gets so backed up to the t-stat it quits circulating and sits in the block and will eventually boil and will serve no purpose what so ever however if your tstat is stuck closed it will overheat even more once you hit the throttle and that is also when you may see boiling over.

You still never answered my ? about the dowel pins, this isnt very common but I asked becuase I have actually did it myself, I was young and dumb and I didnt think Id need both of them and left the other one in the old head, (doing a a6 and mpfi on my old dx) and it overheated just like you, I put a new dowel pin in and flushed the cooling system at school at the time. It worked fine....after that.