HOW CAN I IMPROVE WITH...GIVE YOUR THOUGHTS...13.9 SEC...WANT TO IMPROVE
The following is what I have:
1996 Civic HB
B16B CTR Engine Swap
Toda Spec A camshafts
Toda Exhaust Manifold (Running open header during races)
Toda Cam Gears (INT +4, EXH +2, Timing @ 17 degrees)
Toda Dual Valve Springs
Skunk2 Ti Retainers
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
JG Edelbrock 65mm TB
Zeal Function B6 Coilovers w/ circuit rate heavy springs
AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator (set @ 50psi)
Mugen 2 ply head gasket
RSR Test Pipe
JUN Hyper Exhaust
CTR Single crank pulley
MSD 6AL Ignition
MSD Blaster 3 Coil
MSD 8.5mm Wires
NGK Iridium BKR7EIX-11
P28 Reprogrammed JUN ECU
Field Vtec Controller
Custom Ram Air Piping through headlight
Bogart Pro 4 13" Rims w/ 22" M&H Slicks
Bogart Pro 4 15" Skinnies.
Running 93 to 95 octane gas.
So far on the track, note our track does not have vht on the launch pad, just concrete launch pad with burnout rubber on top. Launch rev limit set at 8,000rpm, Slicks at 10 psi, shifting at 9,000 rpm. Best time of 13.9 sec, with 2.4 sec 60ft, and .699 reaction time. Lowered psi on slicks to 8 psi, but only got 60 ft to 2.1 sec. On the track running open header.
Due to no VHT on the track, what do you guys suggest to try to better my 60ft times and get better ET's???
What else could I do with what I got to better the way it is running??? No dyno where I live.
What times should I be able to do with what I got??? Average temp is 87 degrees, a lot of humidity, live in tropical island....Thanks...Much appreciated.
1996 Civic HB
B16B CTR Engine Swap
Toda Spec A camshafts
Toda Exhaust Manifold (Running open header during races)
Toda Cam Gears (INT +4, EXH +2, Timing @ 17 degrees)
Toda Dual Valve Springs
Skunk2 Ti Retainers
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
JG Edelbrock 65mm TB
Zeal Function B6 Coilovers w/ circuit rate heavy springs
AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator (set @ 50psi)
Mugen 2 ply head gasket
RSR Test Pipe
JUN Hyper Exhaust
CTR Single crank pulley
MSD 6AL Ignition
MSD Blaster 3 Coil
MSD 8.5mm Wires
NGK Iridium BKR7EIX-11
P28 Reprogrammed JUN ECU
Field Vtec Controller
Custom Ram Air Piping through headlight
Bogart Pro 4 13" Rims w/ 22" M&H Slicks
Bogart Pro 4 15" Skinnies.
Running 93 to 95 octane gas.
So far on the track, note our track does not have vht on the launch pad, just concrete launch pad with burnout rubber on top. Launch rev limit set at 8,000rpm, Slicks at 10 psi, shifting at 9,000 rpm. Best time of 13.9 sec, with 2.4 sec 60ft, and .699 reaction time. Lowered psi on slicks to 8 psi, but only got 60 ft to 2.1 sec. On the track running open header.
Due to no VHT on the track, what do you guys suggest to try to better my 60ft times and get better ET's???
What else could I do with what I got to better the way it is running??? No dyno where I live.
What times should I be able to do with what I got??? Average temp is 87 degrees, a lot of humidity, live in tropical island....Thanks...Much appreciated.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DEMNTD1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> On the track running open header.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
1. Have you ever tried not running open header ? that can actually hinder times you know.
2. bigger Injectors is something you could use.
4. 96+hatch = heavy, gut.
5. and i think you launch to high
6. just keep experimenting with launch
</TD></TR></TABLE>
1. Have you ever tried not running open header ? that can actually hinder times you know.
2. bigger Injectors is something you could use.
4. 96+hatch = heavy, gut.
5. and i think you launch to high
6. just keep experimenting with launch
"Best time of 13.9 sec, with 2.4 sec 60ft, and .699 reaction time"
it seems to me your 60ft is the problem. a 2.4 60ft is shitty, learn to launch better and you will see those times drop. that set up will mobb deep. Reaction time has nothing to do with your 1/4 mile, unless your doing heads up racing, or some ****.
get those 60ft's down and gut the **** out of your hatch, youll be stoked.
it seems to me your 60ft is the problem. a 2.4 60ft is shitty, learn to launch better and you will see those times drop. that set up will mobb deep. Reaction time has nothing to do with your 1/4 mile, unless your doing heads up racing, or some ****.
get those 60ft's down and gut the **** out of your hatch, youll be stoked.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chemicalviper »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. Have you ever tried not running open header ? that can actually hinder times you know.
2. bigger Injectors is something you could use.
6. just keep experimenting with launch</TD></TR></TABLE>
Have you tried adjusting your timing on your cam gears? You might want to try less advance on the intake to help increase scavenging, thus gaining you some top end power.
2. bigger Injectors is something you could use.
6. just keep experimenting with launch</TD></TR></TABLE>
Have you tried adjusting your timing on your cam gears? You might want to try less advance on the intake to help increase scavenging, thus gaining you some top end power.
Thanks for your inputs. I know the 60ft is shity, launch rpm may be a little too high, just remember, the track has no VHT so I'm just hoping for a 1.8 to 1.7 60 ft time.
I will try lowering the launch rpm and will put back the exhaust next race day. I heard open header helps, but mainly on 1.8L engines with high compression and big cams. Since I'm a 1.6L with only about 11.1:1 compression, will try with the exhaust. Kinda seemed like I lost some torque open header. Will keep you guys posted.
I will also try reducing the advance on the intake side, maybe to about +2 instead of +4.
Vehicle is completely stripped, except for my Bride Brix seat and dashboard. If to lighten the vehicle some more, it is planned in the future, replace doors and rear hatch to fiberglass and some lexan windows.
As for injectors, was planning to upgrade to RC 310cc in a few months.
Once again thanks for your input and if anyone else has anymore to say, please do.
I will try lowering the launch rpm and will put back the exhaust next race day. I heard open header helps, but mainly on 1.8L engines with high compression and big cams. Since I'm a 1.6L with only about 11.1:1 compression, will try with the exhaust. Kinda seemed like I lost some torque open header. Will keep you guys posted.
I will also try reducing the advance on the intake side, maybe to about +2 instead of +4.
Vehicle is completely stripped, except for my Bride Brix seat and dashboard. If to lighten the vehicle some more, it is planned in the future, replace doors and rear hatch to fiberglass and some lexan windows.
As for injectors, was planning to upgrade to RC 310cc in a few months.
Once again thanks for your input and if anyone else has anymore to say, please do.
I believe dyno tuning or even some tuning with just a wideband o2 sensor would do some good if you haven't done it already. And if you do get some dyno time, use it to tune the cam gears, since just guessing should never be your solution. Some good headword would also help out your setup.
considering you have a b16b and its just a destroked b18c5, you could just get the rotating assy. from a b18c5 and have yourself a geniune 1.8 type r motor. I a lil displacement would def give your et's a drop.
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what is your trapspeed?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Used2beAb16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">considering you have a b16b and its just a destroked b18c5, you could just get the rotating assy. from a b18c5 and have yourself a geniune 1.8 type r motor. I a lil displacement would def give your et's a drop. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i thought all the b16 blocks are 7mm smaller than the b18's..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Used2beAb16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">considering you have a b16b and its just a destroked b18c5, you could just get the rotating assy. from a b18c5 and have yourself a geniune 1.8 type r motor. I a lil displacement would def give your et's a drop. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i thought all the b16 blocks are 7mm smaller than the b18's..
That was one other option I had in mind. I do have a USDM B18C5 crank, rods, and piston. The only thing was that I did not want to tear apart the original B16B block. Was planning to pick up a GSR or B18C5 bare block and put the crank (after getting it balanced) and rods in it, but replace the pistons with Toda's for higher compression.
One added question, I also have the oil squitters and crank main cap and girdle from the B18C5, if I get a GSR block, do I use the B18C5 oil squitters and crank main caps and girdle or do I just use the one that comes with the GSR engine?
Should I just match up the codes on the rods to the crank, crank to block for the bearings, or will it be better to plastic gauge it?
How about honing the block for the new pistons, don't have a good machine shop to do the honing. Should I just get 81mm replacement pistons or go .20 over and get the 81.25mm pistons. Could I just use a flex hone or 3 finger hone to bore over .20mm for oversize pistons?
Thanks for you help guys...
One added question, I also have the oil squitters and crank main cap and girdle from the B18C5, if I get a GSR block, do I use the B18C5 oil squitters and crank main caps and girdle or do I just use the one that comes with the GSR engine?
Should I just match up the codes on the rods to the crank, crank to block for the bearings, or will it be better to plastic gauge it?
How about honing the block for the new pistons, don't have a good machine shop to do the honing. Should I just get 81mm replacement pistons or go .20 over and get the 81.25mm pistons. Could I just use a flex hone or 3 finger hone to bore over .20mm for oversize pistons?
Thanks for you help guys...
how about ls crank, aftermarket ls rods and some good high compression pistons. nothing on your motor is really set up for ridiculouly high revs now, no harm in dropping your rev limit a lil bit. if you go os pistons you will want to bore it. stock bore you can ball hone it and it should work fine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91integraLSVTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is your trapspeed?
Trap speed at 92mph.
[QUOTE=KraZEtEggIE]how about ls crank, aftermarket ls rods and some good high compression pistons. nothing on your motor is really set up for ridiculouly high revs now, no harm in dropping your rev limit a lil bit. if you go os pistons you will want to bore it. stock bore you can ball hone it and it should work fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the info, will stick with stock bore so I can just use a ball hone. Speaking of ball hone, for 81mm, do I use the 3 1/4" ball hone? What size ball hone should I use???
Trap speed at 92mph.
[QUOTE=KraZEtEggIE]how about ls crank, aftermarket ls rods and some good high compression pistons. nothing on your motor is really set up for ridiculouly high revs now, no harm in dropping your rev limit a lil bit. if you go os pistons you will want to bore it. stock bore you can ball hone it and it should work fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the info, will stick with stock bore so I can just use a ball hone. Speaking of ball hone, for 81mm, do I use the 3 1/4" ball hone? What size ball hone should I use???
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