CTR cams????
I ran a search and its not giving me the info I am looking for.
So, does anyone have CTR cams in there b16? I think im gonna pick some up next month. Anyways, how do you like them, did you feel much of a gain from them w/ your setup?
Right now I just have bolt ons. What kind of gains should I see? Would I benefit from cam gears?
Thanks.
So, does anyone have CTR cams in there b16? I think im gonna pick some up next month. Anyways, how do you like them, did you feel much of a gain from them w/ your setup?
Right now I just have bolt ons. What kind of gains should I see? Would I benefit from cam gears?
Thanks.
When I installed a set in my b16a I noticed a difference all of the way through the power band and vtec will have a little more "bark" when it engages.
When you have the cams out of the engine compare them side by side and you will visually be able to see the difference in lift and duration on the ctr vtec lobes.
When you have the cams out of the engine compare them side by side and you will visually be able to see the difference in lift and duration on the ctr vtec lobes.
My friend put 2001 ITR cams (debatable but they are nearly/exactly identical to CTR cams) in his 91 CRX Si with manual B16 Sir1 and he felt absolutely NO difference on the butt dyno...biggest waste of 500 he'd ever spent in his opinion
HOWEVER...my other friend with a LSVTEC and a auto B16 Sir1 head swapped out the auto B16 cams for some CTRs, and noticed a CRAZY difference.
Depends on the motor I guess.
HOWEVER...my other friend with a LSVTEC and a auto B16 Sir1 head swapped out the auto B16 cams for some CTRs, and noticed a CRAZY difference.
Depends on the motor I guess.
I have them in my 00 Si...notice a big difference between 6k to 8K, and the lower end is a little better...I dont have dyno numbers to back it up. I can tell you this: if you dont get a remapped ECU/stand-alone, you will NOT get the potential out of these cams. My car feels almost the same running OBDII as it did with the stock cams. But on the chipped ECU, it feels a lot better. Worth the money in my opinion.
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So I am guessing I should convert to OBD1, What program are you running on your ECU??
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Damon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have them in my 00 Si...notice a big difference between 6k to 8K, and the lower end is a little better...I dont have dyno numbers to back it up. I can tell you this: if you dont get a remapped ECU/stand-alone, you will NOT get the potential out of these cams. My car feels almost the same running OBDII as it did with the stock cams. But on the chipped ECU, it feels a lot better. Worth the money in my opinion.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Damon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have them in my 00 Si...notice a big difference between 6k to 8K, and the lower end is a little better...I dont have dyno numbers to back it up. I can tell you this: if you dont get a remapped ECU/stand-alone, you will NOT get the potential out of these cams. My car feels almost the same running OBDII as it did with the stock cams. But on the chipped ECU, it feels a lot better. Worth the money in my opinion.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92b16vx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mine are going in next weekend, and then off to the dyno again so I can see exactly what was gained.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah man let me know.
Yeah man let me know.
CTR and ITR are basically identical.
except ITR has 240 degrees of intake duration
and the CTR has 243 degrees
good for about 6-8whp
ill be throwing it in my car later this year.... i might be going with ITR's instead
cheaper and both exhaust cams are the same!
except ITR has 240 degrees of intake duration
and the CTR has 243 degrees
good for about 6-8whp
ill be throwing it in my car later this year.... i might be going with ITR's instead
cheaper and both exhaust cams are the same!
you know what CROWER even make good cams... slightly better then the ITR CAMS.
but i would rather stick with OEM.. keep the car sounding like stock, keep the emission under wraps...
dont forget if you go with the ITR/CTR CAMS you gotta switch your intake valve springs to the exhaust side ( these are your your stock valve springs on your B16 head ) and buy ITR valve springs
but i would rather stick with OEM.. keep the car sounding like stock, keep the emission under wraps...
dont forget if you go with the ITR/CTR CAMS you gotta switch your intake valve springs to the exhaust side ( these are your your stock valve springs on your B16 head ) and buy ITR valve springs
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chigga1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
dont forget if you go with the ITR/CTR CAMS you gotta switch your intake valve springs to the exhaust side ( these are your your stock valve springs on your B16 head ) and buy ITR valve springs</TD></TR></TABLE>
No you don't. As long as you keep your factory rev limiter you should be fine. Of course it won't hurt to upgrade your springs and such but you don't have to. That is part of what makes them appealing.
dont forget if you go with the ITR/CTR CAMS you gotta switch your intake valve springs to the exhaust side ( these are your your stock valve springs on your B16 head ) and buy ITR valve springs</TD></TR></TABLE>
No you don't. As long as you keep your factory rev limiter you should be fine. Of course it won't hurt to upgrade your springs and such but you don't have to. That is part of what makes them appealing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chigga1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no kidding???
i had no idea...
thanks man, im learnign as i go along with this...
so your saying to me..... if i rev to the limiter 8200RPM, ill be fine????</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you've got a b16, and as long as you don't stay THAT high too long you should be fine..but no higher.
i had no idea...
thanks man, im learnign as i go along with this...
so your saying to me..... if i rev to the limiter 8200RPM, ill be fine????</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you've got a b16, and as long as you don't stay THAT high too long you should be fine..but no higher.
CTR camshafts are good... Skunk 2 stage 1's are better. Save for an additional couple hundred bucks and get the Skunk 2's. You'll be much happier and plus it makes more power... even beyond 8K+ rpm without compromising idle.
Otherwise just get the CTR Intake cam and leave your stock exhaust cam in if your on a budget.
Otherwise just get the CTR Intake cam and leave your stock exhaust cam in if your on a budget.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chigga1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no kidding???
i had no idea...
thanks man, im learnign as i go along with this...
so your saying to me..... if i rev to the limiter 8200RPM, ill be fine????</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, you should upgrade your valve springs if you intend to rev higher. You risk ******* up your head if you dont. I dont know about B16s, but on GSRs, the intake springs are as stiff as the exhaust springs on ITRs, so if you change the springs out, you only need to buy the intake side, then use the old intake ones on the exhaust side. The springs on the Intake side are stiffer.
i had no idea...
thanks man, im learnign as i go along with this...
so your saying to me..... if i rev to the limiter 8200RPM, ill be fine????</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, you should upgrade your valve springs if you intend to rev higher. You risk ******* up your head if you dont. I dont know about B16s, but on GSRs, the intake springs are as stiff as the exhaust springs on ITRs, so if you change the springs out, you only need to buy the intake side, then use the old intake ones on the exhaust side. The springs on the Intake side are stiffer.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by diearzte2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No, you should upgrade your valve springs if you intend to rev higher. You risk ******* up your head if you dont. I dont know about B16s, but on GSRs, the intake springs are as stiff as the exhaust springs on ITRs, so if you change the springs out, you only need to buy the intake side, then use the old intake ones on the exhaust side. The springs on the Intake side are stiffer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
He should be fine, b16 redline is at 8200
http://hybrid2.honda-perf.org/tech/engine.html
No, you should upgrade your valve springs if you intend to rev higher. You risk ******* up your head if you dont. I dont know about B16s, but on GSRs, the intake springs are as stiff as the exhaust springs on ITRs, so if you change the springs out, you only need to buy the intake side, then use the old intake ones on the exhaust side. The springs on the Intake side are stiffer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
He should be fine, b16 redline is at 8200
http://hybrid2.honda-perf.org/tech/engine.html
8200 on stock B16A springs with CTR cams is fine. I hit it in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th at least twice a day. Just droping them in and go to the dyno lost 5 hp up top, but gain 6lbs-ft, but the loss am thinking now is because of fuel isssues and possibly needing a little cam timing. But there is an huge difference in low and mid range power, more so than I/H/E provided.
But ya better safe than sorry would say, use the ITR springs. especially if you plan on going higher than 8200.
But ya better safe than sorry would say, use the ITR springs. especially if you plan on going higher than 8200.




TIA