Hey gang. It has been some time but i need your help.. I have a 94, manual, that has a fluctuating idle at start-up... It will rise to about 3K then fall and then go back up again and the cycle will continue till the engine is a bit warm then it runs fine. If you can help me with this situation I would appreciate it. I have replaced the "sensor" on top of the TB and have taken the TB off to clean it and also cleaned the "selinoid" on the drivers side to the TB. No help. I know I have asked this before but this time the saga continues....

I have noticed that as I am in "stop and go" traffic that as the car "heats" up ie. not moving the rps. continually incrase till the idle is at 3500 RPM.. This is vey disconcerning to me especially since I am traveling in NYC at the moment and really would like to get this resolved before I make the trip home... Any help would be appreciated.. Thanks all..

 

you might wanna just disconnect your negative battery terminal for a few minutes (10-15)...this will reset your ECU....then reconnect the battery, start the car and let it idle for a few min, this allows the ECU to "relearn" the peoper idle level...that would be ur first bet

 

I would start by flushing your radiator fluid. If that doesn't work I would say its probably your IACV (intake air control valve)

 

I had a rad. hose break last weekend and had to flush the system aswell as two month ago I lost my radiator and had to have it flushed then - so this takes one out of the things to try. I have not taken the negative trem. off but I have taken the Pos. off with not change. Will this do the same as removing the neg? It the IACV was bad would I get a cel? It so I am not getting one.. Please let me know... thanks for your help. Would an OBD test help eliminate the problem. or do I need a cel to have something show up?

 

neg is different cause the cars frame is positivly charged, and the car draws a small amount of charge from the frame....i think u would throw a cel, but im not sure

 

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WTF do you mean by that? The frame does NOT generate electricity NOR does it hold a "charge". Disconnecting the positive WILL do the same thing as disconnecting the negative but it comes with more risk. With the ground, or negative, still connected to the baterry there is potential of a big shock if you are working near the battery.....say you are holding a steel wrench and accidentally touch it to the positive terminal.....since the battery is still grounded it will send an immediate pulse through the conductive material, the wrench, and right into you, the jughead who left the damn thing grounded.

Charged frame, huh? I am laughing my *** off at that bit of knowledge......

 

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and to be accurate, the frame is GROUNDED, connected to the ground, not to the positive terminal.

 

if I remember correctly you can check your (iacv) there is a small hole inside the throttle body. if you pull your intake off you should be able to locate it. with the car at idle you can plug the hole up with your finger. from there you should see the throttle body open more.

 

I am sorry to bring this post back to life, But it has been 2 years of dealinig with it to not let everyone know what it was.. It was the IACV that was causing my idle to fluctuate at inital start up.. The dealer believed that it was also causing the high idle during stop and go travel but they were wrong.. Believe it or not it was the cruise control cable. It was to tight and during the hight heat of glid- lock it was making my idle spike.. Just a bit of help for everyone else..

240.00 and my problems were solved