FastBrakes Kit Review
Mmmk, where to begin...
So yea, my rear caliper froze and took my right rear brake components with it...
While I was at it I decided to upgrade the front and rear with parts from FastBrakes
http://www.fastbrakes.com
The kit is wonderful, but is anything but "easy bolt-on"
On a side note, Brian is excelent to work with.
Anyway, my parts are this: 11" rear kit (rotors, adapter brackets, misc bolts), New rear calipers from AutoZone (big mistake, dont ever do this), ITR front calipers and "SpecR" 11" front rotors... I believe they are accord v6 rotors, but whatever
First problem we ran into was that the heat shield and the front brake rotors do not get along, we knew this was coming so we had hammer and tin snips handy.
Next, the front caliper brackets are too thick where they mount to the control arm causing rubbing issues... try finding a machine shop that is willing to figure out how to mill the raised edge of the caliper bracket flush so they fit... its a pain in the ***, takes a bit over an hour if your guy is good (30 minutes figuring out how to hold the damn thing and 15 minutes each milling them) and cost me around $75.
That takes care of the front, everything bolts together nicely.
I suggest getting some regular nuts that fit on your lug studs and holding your brake rotor down so that you can test fit everything with all the parts in their normal positions.
On to the rears...
This is the hard part... the bolts Brian included use a 7mm hex key, in other words, the most impossible hex key to find ever... your best bet is to just buy some new cap head screws because the new ones will need 8mm keys. After you get bolts you can actually use, bolting the bracket on is a breeze.
Take your caliper bracket with the rotor off and test fit it... guess what, thos bolts and even his old bolts are probably touching the bracket... this is not good.
Time to take the old bench grinder and grind away untill you get some clearance, took me 2 trys and about 5 minutes per side to make everything clear.
using those nuts I suggested you get earlier, bolt the rotor on with the included machined adapter and get ready to test fit some brackets, now with rotors
He includes a washer for each caliper-adapter bolt, I had to use them as spacers on one side and regular washers on the other... the bastard of it is, you have to test fit the calipe bracket to see where it sits relative to the rotor and space it accordingly... it is better to be off center towards the inside of the car, but not by much.
stick in your pads, bolt up the other part of the caliper
for those of you whose brake lines are not already seperate, you will need to pull your ebrake cable out a little and unbolt the brake line holder so you have enough slack cause the caliper is now an inch further back from where it used to be.
For those of you with your lines off the caliper, you already know what has to happen...
bleed the hell out of everything
After all is said and done, my pedal feels like absolute crap, and my hand brake barely works
I will be getting stainless lines to (hopefully) help my pedal feel
I will post pictures of the entire process when I put the new lines on. Not to mention write some new instructions that dont give me a headache, maybe with some pictures for those of us who have no idea what is going on but think we can handle massive projects.
So yea, my rear caliper froze and took my right rear brake components with it...
While I was at it I decided to upgrade the front and rear with parts from FastBrakes
http://www.fastbrakes.com
The kit is wonderful, but is anything but "easy bolt-on"
On a side note, Brian is excelent to work with.
Anyway, my parts are this: 11" rear kit (rotors, adapter brackets, misc bolts), New rear calipers from AutoZone (big mistake, dont ever do this), ITR front calipers and "SpecR" 11" front rotors... I believe they are accord v6 rotors, but whatever
First problem we ran into was that the heat shield and the front brake rotors do not get along, we knew this was coming so we had hammer and tin snips handy.
Next, the front caliper brackets are too thick where they mount to the control arm causing rubbing issues... try finding a machine shop that is willing to figure out how to mill the raised edge of the caliper bracket flush so they fit... its a pain in the ***, takes a bit over an hour if your guy is good (30 minutes figuring out how to hold the damn thing and 15 minutes each milling them) and cost me around $75.
That takes care of the front, everything bolts together nicely.
I suggest getting some regular nuts that fit on your lug studs and holding your brake rotor down so that you can test fit everything with all the parts in their normal positions.
On to the rears...
This is the hard part... the bolts Brian included use a 7mm hex key, in other words, the most impossible hex key to find ever... your best bet is to just buy some new cap head screws because the new ones will need 8mm keys. After you get bolts you can actually use, bolting the bracket on is a breeze.
Take your caliper bracket with the rotor off and test fit it... guess what, thos bolts and even his old bolts are probably touching the bracket... this is not good.
Time to take the old bench grinder and grind away untill you get some clearance, took me 2 trys and about 5 minutes per side to make everything clear.
using those nuts I suggested you get earlier, bolt the rotor on with the included machined adapter and get ready to test fit some brackets, now with rotors
He includes a washer for each caliper-adapter bolt, I had to use them as spacers on one side and regular washers on the other... the bastard of it is, you have to test fit the calipe bracket to see where it sits relative to the rotor and space it accordingly... it is better to be off center towards the inside of the car, but not by much.
stick in your pads, bolt up the other part of the caliper
for those of you whose brake lines are not already seperate, you will need to pull your ebrake cable out a little and unbolt the brake line holder so you have enough slack cause the caliper is now an inch further back from where it used to be.
For those of you with your lines off the caliper, you already know what has to happen...
bleed the hell out of everything
After all is said and done, my pedal feels like absolute crap, and my hand brake barely works
I will be getting stainless lines to (hopefully) help my pedal feel
I will post pictures of the entire process when I put the new lines on. Not to mention write some new instructions that dont give me a headache, maybe with some pictures for those of us who have no idea what is going on but think we can handle massive projects.
yes the front and rear rotors are the same size, but the rear rotors are non-vented just like the stock ones... im not sure what the rears come from, but they are drilled 5 lug originaly
Anyway, ill be ordering stainless lines soon and will either change this topic or make a new one.
I still do not know what the problem is with my rear brakes, they seriously dont work at all and im starting to assume the autozone calipers are crappier than I thought.
Anyway, ill be ordering stainless lines soon and will either change this topic or make a new one.
I still do not know what the problem is with my rear brakes, they seriously dont work at all and im starting to assume the autozone calipers are crappier than I thought.
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SmellsLikeMustand
Southern California (Sales)
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Feb 27, 2007 10:56 AM




