I just finished a b16 swap, and theres no vtec. Everything is wired up correctly, speedo is working, oil level is good.

The only problem was the vtec oil pressure switch...my dad was looking at it and broke off the plastic around the connector that the harness plug clips into. The prongs were still coming out of the connector straight, and were untouched. WE slid the plug over the connector adn taped it on to keep it tight. I know everybodys gonna say get the new switch, but i really dont think thats the problem. The result of it breaking is the harness connector doesnt stay tight on its own power, so we taped it up.

 

Cant figure this out

 

I'm trying to figure out which pin on the switch is the ground and which goes to the ecu?? Does it matter since its a switch?

 

no help?

 

Could be a stupid idea, but are you letting the car get warmed up before you try to hit the good 'ol VTEC. You only need a few things to get it to work. Oil pressure, a certian throttle position and the engine to be warm.

 

yeah, make sure you have enough oil.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could be a stupid idea, but are you letting the car get warmed up before you try to hit the good 'ol VTEC. You only need a few things to get it to work. Oil pressure, a certian throttle position and the engine to be warm. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yip,

engine speed has to be above 4800 rpms

Vehicle Speed has to be above 13mph on a manual and above 3 mph on an automatic

Engine Coolant temp has to be above 140 degree F

And engine load judged by intake manifold negative pressure

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92b16vx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

And engine load judged by intake manifold negative pressure</TD></TR></TABLE>

Something to consider hatchem, remember how we had a few of your vacuum lines confused?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92b16vx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And engine load judged by intake manifold negative pressure</TD></TR></TABLE>

The MAP sensor never sees "negative pressure". I know this because I have OBD software where I can go in and watch all of my sensors at work.

Fucked me up bad trying to get my boost running right, because I thought my MAP was fried. The senor actually goes to a higher number (exact opposite of what a boost/vaccum guage shows) as you depress the pedal more. I don't know if that makes sense, but at idle it's like 6 mm/hg. At WOT it's at like 30 mm/hg.


EDIT: Doesn't even see over 30mm/hg at 10psi of boost.

 

I'm no noob, ALL conditions are met for vtec.

I've never seen vtec NOT working and not thrown ANY codes though. :scratches head:

 

replaced the vtec spool valve filter.. maybe not enough oil is gettin in there for it to activate

 

I'm almost positive all thats fine, took it out of one car, put it in another about a month later.

 

^ Definately not a noob. Are we sure ur vacuum lines are straight?

 

I gotta double check them, but that wouldnt kill the vtec.

You could have no lines hooked up, and just rock out with your **** out.....vtec'ing

 

i've seen a motors with bad bearings not go into vtec, no codes, oil and vss were also fine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The MAP sensor never sees "negative pressure". I know this because I have OBD software where I can go in and watch all of my sensors at work.

Fucked me up bad trying to get my boost running right, because I thought my MAP was fried. The senor actually goes to a higher number (exact opposite of what a boost/vaccum guage shows) as you depress the pedal more. I don't know if that makes sense, but at idle it's like 6 mm/hg. At WOT it's at like 30 mm/hg.


EDIT: Doesn't even see over 30mm/hg at 10psi of boost.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just quoting the Helms manual.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sick hatchem &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm trying to figure out which pin on the switch is the ground and which goes to the ecu?? Does it matter since its a switch?</TD></TR></TABLE>

^ on the oil pressure switch under spool solenoid....

 

Here's a picture of the sensor that got broken. Its just the plastic that holds the clip on..... the two pins coming out of sensor were not touched, bent or damaged.




^ bad pic of pins, but they are good...

Could my ground be in a bad spot ( going to end cap bolt)?


Modified by sick hatchem at 12:06 PM 3/15/2004

 

not to be a jackass but you sure you can the vtec wire correctly that is if your previous setup didn't have vtec. Do you have the right ecu?

 

yeah, EVERYTHING is in order....

 

replace the oil pressure sending unit and water temp sending unit.

 

its not the oil pressure switch, because unplugged it today and instantly threw a 22

 

Might want to check the 2 screens in the solinoid for the hell of it. I took my solinoid apart today and cleaned it out. Alot of varnish in it. I also replaced the big gasket w/ the screen too. Mine was leaking from the top and the side. $18.00 for a new one.

 

Mine is less than 2 months old.

 

You really should replace that vtec oil pressure sensor. Also, try moving the ground wire to a chassis ground, or valve cover stud, or some other known good ground. I wouldnt reccomend leaving it there though, looks ugly.

Check to see if there is continuity in the pressure switch connector. With a multimeter set to ohms, connect one prong to the terminal attached to the black wire, one to chassis ground. The multimeter should read zero ohms, if it reads above that, there is a short. Do the same thing, to the blue/black wire terminal and to the corresponding pin on the ecu. On OBD1 cars, the pin is D6. The meter should read zero ohms.

You should also check the resistance of the VTEC solenoid with a multimeter, unplug the conenctor, and measure resistance between the prong on the connector, and a ground. Should be 14-30ohms.




Modified by 743 at 11:03 PM 3/15/2004