My setup... comments please!!!
I figure I should get some advice from HT before I tear it all apart. the goal of the build is to A) make the car last another 4-5 years (125,XXX miles) and B) make moderate, safe, reliable power... enough to hopefully get into the 14's and C) spend around $3k on parts/labor. Here we go...
-1992 Integra RS w/ original B18A1, pretty new tranny/clutch (stock)
-Skunk2 manifold
-DC stainless header
-Crower Stage2 cams, springs, retainers, STR cam gears
-OEM valves, clean head
-USDM type-R pistons (.25 oversized), OEM rods,
-OEM rod and main bearings
-Block cleaned, bored (duh!), balanced crank,
-New gaskets top to bottom
-Venom FPR, AEM fuel rail
-Hondata S100 tuned at Jotech in dallas, TX
Jotech estimated around 170whp tuned which i would be happy with. they werent 100% cuz they've never worked with those cams. im lookin to hit the 14's. i would be happy there.
the car already has AEM short ram, 2.25" muffler shop exhaust, msd wires, denso plugs. GC's, tokico blues, enegery susp. bushing kit, Susp. Tech. sway bars, every freakin bar imaginable, slotted rotors, braided lines, AEM pads, rebuilt calipers, tokico master cylinder, bronze rota c8 16x7 and toyo proxes fz4 rubber.
I might have a little extra cash, so i was trying to decide if there was anything else i needed, like engine mount inserts, maybe new OEM valves, a ground kit, coil/distributor... not really sure.
any suggestions or comments?
-1992 Integra RS w/ original B18A1, pretty new tranny/clutch (stock)
-Skunk2 manifold
-DC stainless header
-Crower Stage2 cams, springs, retainers, STR cam gears
-OEM valves, clean head
-USDM type-R pistons (.25 oversized), OEM rods,
-OEM rod and main bearings
-Block cleaned, bored (duh!), balanced crank,
-New gaskets top to bottom
-Venom FPR, AEM fuel rail
-Hondata S100 tuned at Jotech in dallas, TX
Jotech estimated around 170whp tuned which i would be happy with. they werent 100% cuz they've never worked with those cams. im lookin to hit the 14's. i would be happy there.
the car already has AEM short ram, 2.25" muffler shop exhaust, msd wires, denso plugs. GC's, tokico blues, enegery susp. bushing kit, Susp. Tech. sway bars, every freakin bar imaginable, slotted rotors, braided lines, AEM pads, rebuilt calipers, tokico master cylinder, bronze rota c8 16x7 and toyo proxes fz4 rubber.
I might have a little extra cash, so i was trying to decide if there was anything else i needed, like engine mount inserts, maybe new OEM valves, a ground kit, coil/distributor... not really sure.
any suggestions or comments?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builtprelude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your going to get that done why not go ls/vtech it will flow a lot better and make more power</TD></TR></TABLE> cause he cant put a phone on his block
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohc VTEC eaaater »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> cause he cant put a phone on his block
</TD></TR></TABLE>
whatttttttttttttttttt'???????????????????????????? ?????? im sorry that made no sense pertaining to going ls/vtec.....
</TD></TR></TABLE>whatttttttttttttttttt'???????????????????????????? ?????? im sorry that made no sense pertaining to going ls/vtec.....
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builtprelude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your going to get that done why not go ls/vtec it will flow a lot better and make more power</TD></TR></TABLE>
he wants a motor thats gonna last a long time... not that ls/vtecs are as unreliable as they used to be, but longevity isnt what ur lookin for with that setup.
he wants a motor thats gonna last a long time... not that ls/vtecs are as unreliable as they used to be, but longevity isnt what ur lookin for with that setup.
Good set up...for a little more money you might want to consider a B18C though. You can get one for 3000. With I/H/E you'd be at about the same place, and have a much more stock engine with more potnential.
but with his motor it will have more torque than the gsr motor so he could just stay with his setup or he could just make it ls/vtec there are a lot of very reliable ls/vtec's around now just get it done right you'll make more power and be much happier
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MolecularIntegra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good set up...for a little more money you might want to consider a B18C though. You can get one for 3000. With I/H/E you'd be at about the same place, and have a much more stock engine with more potnential.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i would concur
i have a b18c1 swap....
i'd sell longblock for 2200.....
safer more reliable power than the built ls
i would concur
i have a b18c1 swap....
i'd sell longblock for 2200.....
safer more reliable power than the built ls
thanks for the comments guys!!!
yeah, after i looked at all the parts the price, i realized i could have gone for a swap instead... oh well. i like the b18a thats in it. there is something sexy about no vtec and no turbo... maybe im just a pervert
about ls/vtec... i would have rather spent cash on building the current head, instead of buying a new (used) one and then having to build that one too. plus, vtec wiring is extra money. i tired to keep it a well balanced build.
thanks again for commenting, more are welcome!!!!
yeah, after i looked at all the parts the price, i realized i could have gone for a swap instead... oh well. i like the b18a thats in it. there is something sexy about no vtec and no turbo... maybe im just a pervert
about ls/vtec... i would have rather spent cash on building the current head, instead of buying a new (used) one and then having to build that one too. plus, vtec wiring is extra money. i tired to keep it a well balanced build.
thanks again for commenting, more are welcome!!!!
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