Please check and see if these tires are still good for another HPDE event. They are Kumho Victoracer. Pictures only show 2 tires. The other too are identical in condition. I don't really know why the tread patterns are different from one another.

I appreciate any comments.
[IMG]http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg[/IMG]

Close up picture of the above tire
[IMG]http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg[/IMG]

Close up picture of the above tire
[IMG]http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg[/IMG]


Modified by NewR at 6:52 AM 3/12/2004

 

They look okay to me. If you're concerned about cording the outside edge, you can always flip them on the rim. Otherwise, just take the best two and put them up front. As long as there isn't any cord showing (and I don't see any) they should be okay to run. How long they will last from this point on will depend on your car, the track, and the way you drive.

 

seems like decent tread to me. you should flip em anyway, if youre getting any type of uneven wear, it will give you that much extra rubber as the difference of wear. the directionality is only according to the tread pattern anyway, which you no longer have, and would only make a difference in the rain.

[cheap plug] i got a cheap set of used victoracers for sale once these are done...
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=4


Modified by Tyson at 11:15 PM 3/11/2004

 

Nope they are no good you should send them to me

 

Thanks people. I will flip them around just to make sure they will last the entire day. Last time I was there, my rotors overheated and warped w/only 15K so I was not a happy camper.

Thanks again!!!

RJ... every funny.. hehehe...

 

they look alright...just flipem....or give them to rj....hahah

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dgonzals &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or give them to rj....</TD></TR></TABLE>

I will take care of them for you. You know, for your safety and all

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NewR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks people. I will flip them around just to make sure they will last the entire day. Last time I was there, my rotors overheated and warped w/only 15K so I was not a happy camper.

Thanks again!!!

RJ... every funny.. hehehe...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Use China Rotors, they work as good as brenbo's do. I have 2 HPDE's, SCCA super school and 2 race on my China rotors. The Idea was given to me by ITAIntegra.

 

Those tires should only be used on a slow honda without vtec

actually, they should be in their prime.
once the inner treads dissappear and the outer tread marks start to show humps instead of being flat and the wear indicatars disappear, then you the tires will be shot.. at that time.. it will only take a small lock up to cord them

but you shoud a lot of fun left in those tires




this one should be run in the rear.

do you see how the humps are starting to appear on the outer tread?
these humps will get more pronounced and it won't be long before they cord.. but if you run them in the rear.. you should be ok..

this tire:


should be an excellent front tire.

if you have the time and money... you could have this tire flipped on the rim.
but if you don't... it will last the another weekend of HPDE

 

As far as your brakes go...

I take an extra set of pads and rotors to the track with me.
always make sure you can get home!

also make sure you do a cool down lap..
take it REALLY easy. look at your speed.. you are used to doing 60-120mph and then your cool lap I bet you are still doing 50-70mph and not realizing it... really slow it down.. wave to the corner workers,

let your brakes and car cool down

also if your rotors start getting leopard spots trash them

 

I will vouch for the spare pads/rotors - I've had to leave my car at the track before and get a ride home/back (300 miles round trip) because i burned up my only set of pads

a little additional advice re: cool down lapsone of my instructors put it very well, he said "if you have to use your brakes on the cool down lap you're going too fast"

 

Thanks for the tips. That was a really good idea to bring extra pads and rotors. It'll be a four hour drive round trip for me, so i would not want to be stranded. Someone also mentioned not the use the hand brake or it will cook the pads. This is my only 5th HPDE so I still get a lot to learn.




Modified by NewR at 7:06 PM 3/12/2004

 

If I may, I'd like to impart a little of what I've learned over the past 10 years of being in the race tire business.

1. You can run those tires again, no problem. Might want to flip them as you are getting inconsistant wear. I'm guessing the photo shows the worn side is the inside edge. I also noticed it doesn't see to be wearing much from the center to outside edge. This can mean a couple things. First you might be running too much air in the tire, casusing it to crown and it looks like you you have too much negative camber in the car. (top of the wheels are pointed in too much) Being this is a FWD car (right?) and pretty stock, you probably don't have camber plates. The only real way to make changes is then with tire pressures. This you will have to experiment with. Put a little more or less in the car and do some runs. See which works best for you. If the front ends ever starts to push a lot, one trick is to put more pressure in the rear tires this will help in freeing up the front.

2. One thing a lot of racers make the mistake of is looking soley at the tread of the tire and the wear marks. Though these are indicators, they really don't tell the true story. You can have all the tread and wear marks left in a tire, but if it has been "cycled out," it is useless in making the car grip on the track. Cycling out means wearing out the useful life of the tire. The tire still goes, it sticks somewhat, but it has peaked as far as rubber adheasion is concerned. This is more important than the amount of tread left.

You need to keep a close eye on tire wear patterns and times. The best tools to use for tires are the Tire gauge, Pyrometer and stop watch. Make sure you have the proper pressures, Check temps across the tire, (left, middle, right) they shoudl read consistant across the tire. If it varies dramatically then set-up needs to be adjustsed. Last, watch your times. If you know you are being consistant in your laps, but the times are going down, or leveling off, then the tires are getting to the end of their life. (in the case of RA1's they seem to get faster as you go.)

Hope this helps. If you have any other questions drop me a line or give me a call.

 

If you need to flip the tires (and belong to Costco), take them there, they flip my race tires for $5 a tire, can't beat that price and well worht the $5 investment

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dented Rx7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you need to flip the tires (and belong to Costco), take them there, they flip my race tires for $5 a tire, can't beat that price and well worht the $5 investment </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd flip them. Just to be sure, and that way your tires arent on your mind while you are driving... I hate that "I wonder if I am chording yet??"

 

Swift-speed, thanks for taking the time and wrote that much info.

Actually the tires wore on the outside edge. Looking at the pictures, the top is the outside edge which shows most of the wear and tear. This was due to almost a season of autoxing with lots of twists and turns. I just hope that they have not been "cycled out". I've tried a lot of different tire pressure setting and found that they work best at 42psi/46psi F/R both for autoxing and road racing. I have a stock suspension ITR by the way and they are FWD like you predicted.

 

I will definitely flip the tires now that I know Costco do the cheap. I thought Costco only work on tires that they sell!!! I paid America Tires $60 for one time mounting and balancing on these R-compound tires and $80 to BigO Tires for a lifetime mounting/balancing on my Azenis.

$5/each at Costco = and I am a Costco member...

I owe you a beer Dented-rx7

 

on the issue of the tires being "cycled out" or been through too many heat cycles, it is true that race tires have a finite number of heat cycles for optimum grip. but in my opinion, this is not really a concern if your intent is for HPDE. this really only matters if the tires are to be used for racing, trying to get the most out of your car. if you never shaved those tires, then its my guess they were "cycled out" a long time ago anyway, so its really a moot point in your case and only academic to consider them "cycled out" at this point.