Fixing SPC Camber Kit Problem *56k* warning
I usually spend most of my time in the eg forums, but I have had to recently work on my sisters acura 3.0 CL which is supposedly the same as a 98 up v6 accord. The problem is that the car is dropped on some spring 2.25 inch lowering springs and the SPC sliding balljoint camber kit I installed on it was making contact with the bottom of the strut tower. On SPC's website it clearly states that the camber kit will work with up to a 3 inch drop. Since the adjusting bolt on the balljoint was contacting the underside of both towers, the suspension travel was limited to about 2 inches up and down making the ride really rough.
Another problem I had with this camber kit was that eventhough it was made for her exact car the adjusting plates that are supposed to be pressed into the arm were about 1mm too big all the way around. Now I'm not totally new to the car scene and I know that sometimes you will need to fab stuff to make it work but thats just rediculous. You would think that a large company like SPC would test fit products before putting them out on the market. Anyways, I was able to solve this buy grinding out the holes so I was able to press the plates on.
To prevent the balljoints from contacting the bottom of the strut towers I figured we could do one of two things, get new springs or make room for the nut to travel upwards. I have a friend that has access to a welder so he was able cut a section of the strut tower out and weld up a cap to allow the adjusting nut of the camber kit to move higher up, giving the suspension a little more travel.
Here are a couple pics of what he did. THe gray stuff covering the pieces is all metal used to smooth everything over. We will be sanding, primering, and painting everything this weekend.


Another problem I had with this camber kit was that eventhough it was made for her exact car the adjusting plates that are supposed to be pressed into the arm were about 1mm too big all the way around. Now I'm not totally new to the car scene and I know that sometimes you will need to fab stuff to make it work but thats just rediculous. You would think that a large company like SPC would test fit products before putting them out on the market. Anyways, I was able to solve this buy grinding out the holes so I was able to press the plates on.
To prevent the balljoints from contacting the bottom of the strut towers I figured we could do one of two things, get new springs or make room for the nut to travel upwards. I have a friend that has access to a welder so he was able cut a section of the strut tower out and weld up a cap to allow the adjusting nut of the camber kit to move higher up, giving the suspension a little more travel.
Here are a couple pics of what he did. THe gray stuff covering the pieces is all metal used to smooth everything over. We will be sanding, primering, and painting everything this weekend.
I had to do the exact same thing with my civic HB. It was dropped about 3 inches and I was starting to nipple the area where the udjusting nut was contacting the underside of the strut tower. I just dremeled (yes, Dremel) out where I needed the clearance and I got about another inch of travel. I have yet to make covers for the holes, though.
wanted to know something with the camber kits . are we able to adjust them ourselves to a certain degree or do we need to take it to an alignment shop and tell them that we have a camber kit installed and need them to adjust it ?!
You can adjust them BUT they have the equipment to get adjust it so its exactly the best possible. And, they adjust the toe (this is the stuff that causes the wear on tire).
So, when you put in the camber kit, just do both sides exactly the same (adjusting) and then drive to alignment shop.
So, when you put in the camber kit, just do both sides exactly the same (adjusting) and then drive to alignment shop.
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