i just purchased a vtec head for my h23 and i need to know if anyone knows how to install the oil squirters. i heard they should be installed in order to prevent messing up the block at high rpms

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by atcclude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just purchased a vtec head for my h23 and i need to know if anyone knows how to install the oil squirters. i heard they should be installed in order to prevent messing up the block at high rpms</TD></TR></TABLE>

that is true but you first need to prep the crank. the stock h23 crank can not handle high speeds.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=510617

it was even on the first page, in the future do a search before you post questions.

 

prep how like have it balanced

 

Yeah it is a good idea to replace the bearings if your motor is old,balance and blueprint the bottom end and maybe use stronger internals because H23s are known for having weak rods, but some people rev them high and they are fine, others break things. Personally, I'm not touching the bottom end of my H23/VTEC I'm building and I'm just not going to rev it high so there shouldn't be any problems...

 

ok but does anybody know how the oil squirters from the h22 need to be modified to fit the h23. a mechanic at a local shop told me all i need is that to prevent damage to the head at high rpms

 

you have to bend the nozzles so that the crank doesnt hit them. drop the oil pan and baffle plate and you should be abel to see how you have to bend them to put them in...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sam1am26 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I'm just not going to rev it high so there shouldn't be any problems...</TD></TR></TABLE>

And the point of doing your, H23/vtec is???

I would like to see you shift at 7K on your tac. You might be .1 seconds faster then before..

 

That's your opinion and you are entitled to it, I guess I will find out...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sam1am26 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's your opinion and you are entitled to it, I guess I will find out...</TD></TR></TABLE>

You will

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cottonwoodz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

And the point of doing your, H23/vtec is???

I would like to see you shift at 7K on your tac. You might be .1 seconds faster then before.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You're wrong bud. I've seen a VTEC Prelude gain over a tenth on their quarter mile just by shifting at fuel cut instead of redline, which is only like 400 RPM's higher. Now imagine being able to shift over 1100 RPM's higher, AND having over 40hp over the stock H23........

You get the picture.

Even though it's mentioned in the Official H23 VTEC post, the oil squirters just won't fit. Or at least I could not get them to fit if my life depended on it!

 

[QUOTE=LudeyKrus]

You're wrong bud. I've seen a VTEC Prelude gain over a tenth on their quarter mile just by shifting at fuel cut instead of redline, which is only like 400 RPM's higher. Now imagine being able to shift over 1100 RPM's higher, AND having over 40hp over the stock H23........

You get the picture.
QUOTE]

Acually, I dont get the picture.. Please explain alittle more

 

im doing the h23 vtec cause i got the head, a messed up block,the computer and a box with all the pumps and extra parts for only $300. also the h22 turbo manifold costs me only $185 when the h23 turbo manifold from RevHard costs me $550 at cost. so like this i can buy the vtec head, turbo manifold, blow off valve etc. for what just the manifold for the h23 would of cost. im not interested in shifting at redline because my t3/t4 at 12 lbs should put out about 280 to the wheels.........I'm rick James, Bitch!!!!! LMAO

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cottonwoodz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Acually, I dont get the picture.. Please explain alittle more</TD></TR></TABLE>

Alrighty. This will all be assuming you actually rev the H23 VTEC higher.

I have personally seen a VTEC Prelude lose over a tenth off of his quarter mile's ET simply by winding every gear out to fuel cut instead of just redline. This validates the fact that revving out higher and staying in a gear longer will make you accelerate faster. The motor has the same amount of horsepower, it is just taking advantage of its powerband and gearing by revving out.

Now take an H23 and add over 1100 RPM's till it hits fuel cut, along with over 40 more horsepower and a broader powerband. Not only will it be faster while shifting at the H23's redline (6500), but by revving out to fuel cut you will be doing the exact same thing as w/ the stock VTEC Prelude mentioned above: you will be taking advantage of its higher powerband. With both a much higher horsepower figure and a higher revlimit, you will make your car MUCH faster by revving out than by shifting at lower RPM's.

How much faster? Well, I'll just have to tell you that in a few weeks.

 

helllllll yeah

 

"Even though it's mentioned in the Official H23 VTEC post, the oil squirters just won't fit. Or at least I could not get them to fit if my life depended on it!"

This is not correct. I have personall installed them on my H23 VTEC Type S build. The tolerance is tight, but completely do-able. I used a '97 H22 oil jet assembly and hardware in a 93 H23 block.

Maybe I should post this in the 'official' thread. Nah, I'm too lazy for that ;-).

Anyways, it works perfect.
Jeff

 

Well if you have any tips or hints as to how to do it, I would like to hear them.

I spent hours bending and moving stuff, and no matter what the bottom of the piston kept hitting and rebending the squirter.

 

My setup is this:

OS Type S pistons
Crower H23 rods
OEM H23 crank, NOT knife-edged (balanced, but has no bearing on oil jet clearance)
97 H22 oil squirter assembly & hardware

They actually do not have to be bent 'down' at all. Change the 'angle' of the nozzle tip so it is pointed more to the center of the piston and it will clear fine. Again, the tolerance is tight, but it works. It took me about 1 hour to bend all four to the correct position.

If they are bent 'down' too far they will rub on the crank as it passes. If they are bent 'up' they will hit the piston skirt. Mine did not have clearance issues with the piston skirts. I will try to take a picture this weekend, but I will have to remove the pickup & windage try to do so, so don't hold your breath ;-).

If you have a different setup, your results may be different, however I suspect that all OEM H22/H23 pistons will have the same skirt design.

:-)
Jeff