paint dont match!@!@ DAM IT!
i just got my front and rear 98 bumpers painted. when i got them back they are eggshelled alittle and there are a few drip spots. i had a guy do it that runs a shop at his house.
once i put them on my 95 gsr i noticed how faided my cars paint was and the bumpers look like a totaly diffrent black.
they guy said take it there and he can buff the bumpers so they will look better?
i know i wont get any $ back from him and i dont know if hes ever gona make them look good.
is there any way i can make them match the car? or should i just save me $ and get the hole car painted?
to hook up paint jobs
once i put them on my 95 gsr i noticed how faided my cars paint was and the bumpers look like a totaly diffrent black.
they guy said take it there and he can buff the bumpers so they will look better?
i know i wont get any $ back from him and i dont know if hes ever gona make them look good.
is there any way i can make them match the car? or should i just save me $ and get the hole car painted?
to hook up paint jobs
Personally I think you should just go ahead and have the whole car painted (primer black, you know you want to). Therefore it would eliminate color matching issues and if you sell the car later, it would help keep the value up moreso than "pick and choose" painting.
i had a very similar problem.. a friend of my uncle took the job of painting my rear quarter panels (one was slightly damaged and needed repair and paint so i figured paint the other one to match) and rear bumper.. paint looked great till i drove it home...TOTALLY DIFF SILVER..man was i pissed.. i called him up and was like this looks different blah blah blah, you know what he had the nirve to tell me? "Oh let it get dirty, youll never know the difference" **** that ****
i had the car repainted for 1500 bucks from a reputable shop and it came out amazing, looks stock you would never know, yes he painted every panel too!. this was a year ago tho..paints still holding up great.
i had the car repainted for 1500 bucks from a reputable shop and it came out amazing, looks stock you would never know, yes he painted every panel too!. this was a year ago tho..paints still holding up great.
With some buffing (maybe get it a little dirty to match the swirl marks) it will look better, but due to the fade, I don't see it matching close enough not to be able to tell. I still think you should paint it primer black.
I had my friend's uncle paint my front end after I did my 98+ conversion and the paint was slightly off. After a few months and some waxing here and there (on the original paint of course), it started to blend in a little bit more. I don't know how drastically different the two colors are for your car, but mine was only noticeable under direct sunlight.
It's still just slightly off right now, but I'm not complaining.
It's still just slightly off right now, but I'm not complaining.
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the guy who painted it dont speek english so i cant talk directly to him. the shop is run out of a garage and i have never seen it so for all i know its a autozone sprayer and stuff.
my other friend works at a good shop and im gona have him take a look at it and see what he can do. i guess im gona rock it untill i can get the hole car painted.
there is a shop called deans autobody out here. hes painted 5 or 6 lowriders that won #1 at shows and got in the lowrider mag. hes said for 2000-2500$ he can paint the hole car and fix all the body work.
i dont know what i wana do yet. im still thinking about throwing my stock parts back on untill i can get everytihng painted.
before i do paint i need to get ITR wing, ITR lip, OEM sides, OEM rear valances, and some 4 door rear handels.
my other friend works at a good shop and im gona have him take a look at it and see what he can do. i guess im gona rock it untill i can get the hole car painted.
there is a shop called deans autobody out here. hes painted 5 or 6 lowriders that won #1 at shows and got in the lowrider mag. hes said for 2000-2500$ he can paint the hole car and fix all the body work.
i dont know what i wana do yet. im still thinking about throwing my stock parts back on untill i can get everytihng painted.
before i do paint i need to get ITR wing, ITR lip, OEM sides, OEM rear valances, and some 4 door rear handels.
looks like the guy did a good job on the bumper paint from the pics looks clean.....its just your car been in the sun too much buffer your entire car and wet sand the bumpers i am sure it will match up better your paint looks old
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GunMETAL_TEgRa »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks like the guy did a good job on the bumper paint from the pics looks clean.....its just your car been in the sun too much buffer your entire car and wet sand the bumpers i am sure it will match up better your paint looks old</TD></TR></TABLE>
no actualy its not good. there is a few spots where it looks like paint dripped/ran, it already chipped in the corner, there was a gay blue emblum on there with tape and u can see the bumps from the tape under the paint. there is a few air bubbles. and the look like eggshels kinda
if i wet sand the bumpers what grit order should i go in? and also will i need to get the clear resprayed if i wetsand it?
no actualy its not good. there is a few spots where it looks like paint dripped/ran, it already chipped in the corner, there was a gay blue emblum on there with tape and u can see the bumps from the tape under the paint. there is a few air bubbles. and the look like eggshels kinda
if i wet sand the bumpers what grit order should i go in? and also will i need to get the clear resprayed if i wetsand it?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Diamond Bar to San Francisco, CA, U.S.A.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94goldjungsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your paint is in AWFUL condition. after buffing, polishing and waxing it will match a lot better.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94goldjungsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">telll him to use DACP x2, VM and top with carnuba moose </TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds good, the reason why your paint doesn't match could be because your original paint is in such horrible condition.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oMekoneDC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no actualy its not good. there is a few spots where it looks like paint dripped/ran, it already chipped in the corner, there was a gay blue emblum on there with tape and u can see the bumps from the tape under the paint. there is a few air bubbles. and the look like eggshels kinda
if i wet sand the bumpers what grit order should i go in? and also will i need to get the clear resprayed if i wetsand it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Go back and have the guy colorsand the bumpers properly. Most likely it'll be 1000 -> 1500 -> 2000 -> 2500 grit followed up by some compound.
Sorry to say, but with paintjobs, you usually get what you pay for
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94goldjungsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">telll him to use DACP x2, VM and top with carnuba moose </TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds good, the reason why your paint doesn't match could be because your original paint is in such horrible condition.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oMekoneDC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no actualy its not good. there is a few spots where it looks like paint dripped/ran, it already chipped in the corner, there was a gay blue emblum on there with tape and u can see the bumps from the tape under the paint. there is a few air bubbles. and the look like eggshels kinda
if i wet sand the bumpers what grit order should i go in? and also will i need to get the clear resprayed if i wetsand it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Go back and have the guy colorsand the bumpers properly. Most likely it'll be 1000 -> 1500 -> 2000 -> 2500 grit followed up by some compound.
Sorry to say, but with paintjobs, you usually get what you pay for
the paint job doesent look that bad
it just wont match cuz you orginal paint is in such bad condiction
i'm sure if your origional paint was in a decent condiction it would have matched much better
it just wont match cuz you orginal paint is in such bad condiction
i'm sure if your origional paint was in a decent condiction it would have matched much better
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,027
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RedTegLS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone who thinks brand new paint is going to match paint that is 4-5 even 7 years old is a little off their rocker.</TD></TR></TABLE>
When the bodyshop replaced my driver side door last March, they painted the whole side of the car, and it matched PERFECTLY 100% to my original 1994 Teal BG-33P paint.
When the bodyshop replaced my driver side door last March, they painted the whole side of the car, and it matched PERFECTLY 100% to my original 1994 Teal BG-33P paint.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
When the bodyshop replaced my driver side door last March, they painted the whole side of the car, and it matched PERFECTLY 100% to my original 1994 Teal BG-33P paint.
</TD></TR></TABLE>NBP is a WHOLE different story buddy..
I just got my whole front bumber repainted from the dealer ship and i could barely tell the difference. This is partially do to the fact that my current OEM paint is Flawless. (knock on wood)
The best thing to do at this point is to repaint the whole car when you have enough money.
Remember, you can never get a paint job good enough to match your OEM paint and I mean NEVER.
Hope this helps
The best thing to do at this point is to repaint the whole car when you have enough money.
Remember, you can never get a paint job good enough to match your OEM paint and I mean NEVER.
Hope this helps
your stock paint is the thing that makes it mismatched, if it was flawless like the guy above, you could barely tell the difference, but yea just get the whole thing sprayed
pEaCe
pEaCe
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,027
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrmonk »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remember, you can never get a paint job good enough to match your OEM paint and I mean NEVER.
Hope this helps
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What are you talking about? The OEM paint on pretty much every car is maybe 7-8 on a scale of 1-10, even when brand new. I have seen many paint jobs that were leaps and bounds beyond anything OEM in terms of quality, i.e. shine, depth, smoothness, etc etc. Of course you pay a premium for work of that quality.
And how is NBP so much different from Paradise Blue Pearl? They're both pearlescent paints.
Hope this helps
</TD></TR></TABLE>What are you talking about? The OEM paint on pretty much every car is maybe 7-8 on a scale of 1-10, even when brand new. I have seen many paint jobs that were leaps and bounds beyond anything OEM in terms of quality, i.e. shine, depth, smoothness, etc etc. Of course you pay a premium for work of that quality.
And how is NBP so much different from Paradise Blue Pearl? They're both pearlescent paints.
let's see, i've had both my front and rear bumpers painted, and my hood painted twice, by the same shop.. color is granada black pearl. it matched _perfectly_
i think the work was done late 2000 on my 1996.
even in direct sunlight, the gold flakes in the black paint look exactly like on the panels with the factory paint. that said, if someone does the work right, it will match.
and to those of you saying that that paint job above looks fine.. how the hell can you tell from just those pics?
edit > here's a pic:
can you tell the difference? i sure can't.
i think the work was done late 2000 on my 1996.
even in direct sunlight, the gold flakes in the black paint look exactly like on the panels with the factory paint. that said, if someone does the work right, it will match.
and to those of you saying that that paint job above looks fine.. how the hell can you tell from just those pics?

edit > here's a pic:

can you tell the difference? i sure can't.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
When the bodyshop replaced my driver side door last March, they painted the whole side of the car, and it matched PERFECTLY 100% to my original 1994 Teal BG-33P paint.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
but thats not taking into concidertation that not everyone takes great care of their car like you do... your car makes me like the BG-33p paint haha
but id have to agree..your original paint is sooo bad, i wouldnt be able to tell if its two different blacks... and how much did you pay for that job?
When the bodyshop replaced my driver side door last March, they painted the whole side of the car, and it matched PERFECTLY 100% to my original 1994 Teal BG-33P paint.
</TD></TR></TABLE>but thats not taking into concidertation that not everyone takes great care of their car like you do... your car makes me like the BG-33p paint haha
but id have to agree..your original paint is sooo bad, i wouldnt be able to tell if its two different blacks... and how much did you pay for that job?
Your original paint looks like it has hella swirl marks and has been beat up over the years. I had my 98 front and rear painted last summer and you can only tell the differences in color under bad lighting, during the day it looks perfect. I would try to do claybar and then maybe a coat of polish and 2 coats of wax.






