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Question: Skunk2 cam install...

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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 01:31 PM
  #1  
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Default Q:skunk2 cam install

S I am taking a crack at installing my stage one's this weekend could someone give me a list of things and parts i will need? here is what i have so far:

- Honda Bond
-assembly grease (what company should i use...redline?) and where can i get it?
-new valve cover gasket
-helms manual
-feeler guage(for valve adjustment)

thats all i have for now...if anyone has a great tech article i would love to see that as well. thanks all

On a side note: im installing my ground kit as well so if anyone has a pic of an itr with the ground kit on that would be helpful as well
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 02:11 PM
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you got it pretty well covered. the helms will tell you exactly what you need. make sure get that timing lined up correctly when reassembling.
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 02:14 PM
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Default Re: Q:skunk2 cam install (TypeRPaul)

any old assembly lube will do, I read quite a few forums about that before I bought some... the valve cover gasket can be reused if it's in good condition (make sure you get all the hondabond off it first). Oh, and you may need the honda valve adjustment tool, I didn't see that listed, I used a propane torch to bend a craftsman box wrench, with a screwdriver, that worked just fine.

Last thing you forgot was beer, you'll need lots of it when you try to get the cam gears off your old cams .

Good luck
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 02:26 PM
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since im in there should i replace my cam seal with a billet one from inlinepro?
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 02:27 PM
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Default Re: Q:skunk2 cam install (TypeRPaul)

you can just use normal engine oil.. and lube that shaft up real good up and down.
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 02:33 PM
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Default Re: Q:skunk2 cam install (jiahanhao)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jiahanhao &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh, and you may need the honda valve adjustment tool, I didn't see that listed, I used a propane torch to bend a craftsman box wrench, with a screwdriver, that worked just fine.


Good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

You'll definately need some type of valve adjustment tool, snap on sells one, the nut size is 10mm with a flat head screw driver going through it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jiahanhao &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Last thing you forgot was beer, you'll need lots of it when you try to get the cam gears off your old cams .

Good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

As for the cam gears, just break the bolts loose before you take the timing belt off, then the cam gears can be easily separated from the cam shafts.
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 02:40 PM
  #7  
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Default Re: Q:skunk2 cam install (2kgs-R)

http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...m.php
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 02:43 PM
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Default Re: Q:skunk2 cam install (2kgs-R)

depending on how many miles you have on the timing belt, you might want to change that too.....A little more work, but better safe than sorry.

As far as Assembly lube....Anything will work, and as stated engine oil is fine too.

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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 03:45 PM
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Default Re: Q:skunk2 cam install (98itR484)

make sure you lube the shaft up good though..
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 04:43 PM
  #10  
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Default Re: (TypeRPaul)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TypeRPaul &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">since im in there should i replace my cam seal with a billet one from inlinepro?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup replace that cam cap also replace the dizzy o-ring.

arp lube
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 05:29 PM
  #11  
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Default Re: Q:skunk2 cam install (mingbling)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mingbling &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and lube that shaft up real good up and down. </TD></TR></TABLE>

doesnt sound like this guy is talking about car parts!!!! hahah wanna come lube mine??
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 05:36 PM
  #12  
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Default Re: (db8sirg)

A good time to also replace the two oil seals that are on the cams by the cam gear side.
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 07:14 PM
  #13  
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Default Re: Q:skunk2 cam install (TypeRPaul)

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=655982
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Old Mar 10, 2004 | 08:28 AM
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Default Re: Q:skunk2 cam install (Black R)

Stuff a rag into the space below the cam gears so that when the woodruff keys that locate the cam gears get dropped they won't disappear into the darkness.

I'd Loctite the cam gear bolts myself. I also used dots of paint on the belt and the gears to locate things back together.

John
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Old Mar 10, 2004 | 09:02 AM
  #15  
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so i need a honda feeler guage a standard one wont work? could someone post up a pic of one and how much they run?
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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 08:12 AM
  #16  
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Default Re: (TypeRPaul)

Angled feeler guages, screwdriver, 10 mm deepwell socket/ 3/8ths drive ratchet, 10mm wrench, all from Sears. Specialty tools are not required but can make it easier.

John
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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 09:05 AM
  #17  
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ok whats the part number for the valve adjustment tool from snap on? is it just a angled feeler guage or is it something special?
if anyone has a pic pleade post up. also how and what specialty tools would make it easyer?
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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 12:20 PM
  #18  
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Default Re: (TypeRPaul)

someone please answer my last q's so i can either call my snap on guy or run to dears to get a angled feeler
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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 03:51 PM
  #19  
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still looking for help please
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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 04:16 PM
  #20  
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Default Re: (TypeRPaul)

You don't need any special tools. PERIOD.

What else are you looking for?

John
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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 04:25 PM
  #21  
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Default Re: (Racebrewer)

Here is some stuff I wrote up for installing cam gears. I think that it will help with your cam install:

I put my own cam gears in. It is not that difficult! ! !

Here are a couple things I did that will make it easier.

Remove sparkplugs so that engine can be turned over easily. I used a 19 mm wrench on the power steering pump to turn over motor. At one point I also had to use a 14 mm wrench on one of the cam bolts to get by a sticking point.

After valve cover removal. I made sure that the cams were at top dead center on the compression stroke by making sure that all the marks on the cam gears lined upand the cam lobes on cylinder 1 were both 'up'. Also the ignition timing mark on the crank was lined up at TDC.

The cams can be pinned at TDC by dropping long pins (allen wrenches, for example) through two of the four holes in the long aluminum plates that hold the tops of the cam carriers in place. The other two holes don't line up with anything.

CHANGE ONE GEAR AT A TIME!

Tie wrap the other cam gear to the belt so there wont be any slippage! Now cams are pinned in place and one gear is locked to belt. Not much can go wrong now.

As a safeguard, I used a crayon and put a couple marks on the cam belt that lined up with the TDC marks on the original pulleys. The TDC marks on the new pulleys should line up with these marks. You'll immediately know if something has gone wrong!!!!!!!! (Clever, huh?)

When you remove the stock gear(s) there is an asymmetric woodruff key between the cam gear and the cam to lock it in place. It is VERY easy for this key to drop out and fall behind the plastic belt cover. I removed the gears and put a dab of wheel bearing grease into the woodruff key slot and then replaced the key. Grease should keep it from falling out. I also took an old off-white (Ha!) t-shirt and slid it in under the gears so that anything falling would land on the cloth and not behind the plastic belt cover.

Do visual checks to make sure that the woodruff key is in place after you slide the hub in place and before putting the big hex capscrew back in place. The woodruff key is not a full half-moon and it MUST be put back the same way.

Before I put the new gears in place I dis-assembled them so that I was only working with the center hubs. This made it much easier to install the hubs. The outer gear wasn't fighting with the belt then. It made it easier to tell when the hub slid home and when I torqued the capscrew in place I knew that I was getting a proper torque (41 foot lbs). You must use a torque wrench!

Slide the cam gear pulley into place on the hub and tighten down the screws that hold it in place. Double check that everything is at TDC. Tie wrap the belt to the new pulley and then repeat with the other pulley. Double check on the belt tightness and reassemble plugs and valve cover. Done.

I also use Dow Corning Vacuum Grease (see an industrial supply house) to re-seal the valve cover, etc. I used +1 on the intake and -2 on the exhaust on my R and on a modified GSR. The 3 degree increase on the lobe separation and the combination of the advanced intake/retarded exhaust seems to work quite well. Not dyno'd yet though.

Good luck,
John

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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 04:33 PM
  #22  
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Default Re: (TypeRPaul)

Passing thought.

You might want to increase your valve clearance before dropping the cams in. That will lessen the pressure on the cams when you tighten down the cam caps.

John
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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 06:11 PM
  #23  
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Default Re: (TypeRPaul)

this makes life easier.



its the jam nut tool or a bent 10mm wrench.
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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 06:58 PM
  #24  
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Default Re: (Racebrewer)

cams are not hard to install at all. all you need is c-speed, and you're set.
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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 09:34 PM
  #25  
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big up for you guys! thank you very much all i am gonna take a crack at it tomarrow, thanks for the write up john and i'll give you a call if i have any problems. thanks again i think it's gonna make my life a lot easyer
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