I have a gsr that i spun a bearing on, and i want to do a COMPLETE rebuild.. Everyone telling me to throw in an LS crank with LS rods on gsr pistons...now my question is...is there any difference in these 2 cranks? i can get a good deal on an B18A...but it has 100+ miles on it...will i have to end up doing extra to the crank to extend life? (micropolish...etc..)

 

if you have a gsr, then the ls cranks are different. the ls has a 89mm stroke and i dont know what the gsr stroke is cuz i dont have one. but putting the ls crank in the gsr block will essentially give you a ls/vtec and probabaly wont take the revs as well as the gsr.

i think cranks really dont go bad, the bearings or whatever do and need replacing.

dont take this as the bible of engine building tho. my b18a is still stock

 

but is the b18b and b18a any different in cranks?

 

no...

 

no differance at all between a b18a and b18b crank

 

ok...well...wha can i do with my crank with the spun bearing? can i micropolish it and it'll be like brand new? wha else could i do to it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95GeeZR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok...well...wha can i do with my crank with the spun bearing? can i micropolish it and it'll be like brand new? wha else could i do to it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Depends how bad it is. Take it to a machine shop and have it checked out. If you do have it polished out make sure you get the right bearings as you will more likely need a different size than what the markings on your crank and block say.

 

o yea...does it matter if i use a crank from an automatic? everything should still work fine, correct?

 

cranks are the same auto or manual being that its from the same motor ls si gsr etc

 

i also heard that if you put in an ls crank with ls rods on gsr pistons...that you could rev up to 9000rpm safely...is this true? and how could it be if both motors stock can only rev up to 8 at most?

 

i dont think it would be safe to rev to 9k w/ ls crank and stock rods. pistons dont really effect the safety of high revving. but again im not an engine expert, just what i beleive i have know.

 

anybody know for sure?

 

thats why ls/vtecs arent that safe at high rpms. the ls crank and rods. maybe w/ forged rods and balanced crank.
they would work in a gsr block, but i think essentialy youd have an ls/vtec w/ oilsquirters and high revs wouldn't be safe

 

its the head what determines if it can rev to 9k. dual valve springs titanium blah blah blah and its not a problem but arp bolt studs would be a big help. But the oil squirters are key get forged parts if you can afford to get those put in your block cause the oil cools he pistons. the heat cause the rds to expand and toss when they dont have squirters on high reving engines

 

right. the head and bottem end need to be built for 9k if your going there. i dont think the ls bottom end will handle 9k well.

and hes got a gsr block so oil squirters are already there

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ferio 95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its the head what determines if it can rev to 9k. dual valve springs titanium blah blah blah and its not a problem but arp bolt studs would be a big help. But the oil squirters are key get forged parts if you can afford to get those put in your block cause the oil cools he pistons. the heat cause the rds to expand and toss when they dont have squirters on high reving engines</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's not ONLY the head that determines how reliably the motor can rev. Rod stroke ratio, how well your bottom end is balanced, etc. I've seen a lot of spun rod bearings on "high revving" LS motors because of stretched rod bolts. IMO, ARP rod bolts are 100% necessary.