hey guys i have a 01 b20z motor in my car. the motor has under 3 thousand miles on it. i just bought a port and poliished 94 gsr head. the block is staying stock along with the head. i only want to rev to 7200-7500 to be safe. i am hearing some problems with valve clearance and something with the gsr head running retarded on the b20 block. i am going to have the timing at stock. if anyone can help clear up this mess in my head it would be greatly appreciated. and dont tell me to search because i have and did not come up with what i was looking for since i see one thing then see the opposite due to undereducated people who think they are pros. so only respond if you can answer these questions and know for a fact not just hearsay. thanks again guys.
Robbo

 

bump

 

clay your motor and find out about clearance issues. shouldnt be a problem. what HG are you using?

 

you should be fine with clearance with ur valves... i used a b20b with b16head... both stock, and i used a GSR intake camshaft.... so you should be absolutely fine. but clay too make sure.....

 

im buying an oem head gasket. and i heard that the b20b and b20z pistons are different thats why im lookin for someone who has a b20z with a gsr head. i know theres some out there...any input is appreciated. thanks keep the replys comin
Robbo

 

the only thing different in the b20z is the compression. bore is still that same. just get a b20z headgasket. you will be fine.

Hell I even have my head milled 10-15000'ths. and im still clearing with GSR intake.

 

a gsr headgasket wont do the trick??? if so then does anyone wanna buy a brand new gsr headgasket?

 

To be absolutely sure I would clay the motor but a guy I know last season did a completely stock bottom end CRVTEC (B20Z with a P72 cylinder head, stock headgasket, and ITR cams) and it ran pretty good... He did a 12.80@106 in his full interior EJ6 which is nothing special but definately not bad for a stock motor... About the revs it's reall up to you... We've built higher compression stock sleeved, stock rod, LS/CRVTEC's and they've held up with ~8500rpm for several years... That's also with stock rods but granted they were running forged pistons... We've taken stock PR4 rods and rod bolts to 10Krpm with no problems but that wasn't on a daily basis and I would NOT recommend it... Good Luck and let me know if you need anything else

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EKsnatchback &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a gsr headgasket wont do the trick??? if so then does anyone wanna buy a brand new gsr headgasket?</TD></TR></TABLE>
umm you HAVE to use a b20 or LS headgasket, depending on which block you use, with the lsvtec or crvtec conversion

 

would you say it would be safe for me to have a gsr ecu in there and rev to like 7200 daily and only bring it up to 8k on the track?

 

Yea, I see no problem what so ever. As I mentioned I don't recommend stock rods for high rpm setups but of all the NA LS/CRVTECs we've ever built not one has even broken a rod or bolt and they've all gone to 8K+. I don't know what chassis you're working with for sure (going off your name is it an EK?) but as I've said numerous times the GSR (P72) ECU is not the one to use. Not only is the VTEC way too low but the mapping sucks. If you have to deal with SMOG and stuff, we don't have to deal with much of any emissions testing in Oregon so I don't know about elsewhere then go with the ECU that will allow you to pass (i.e. don't run a P28 in an OBDII car unless you have another ECU to run emissions with) Whether or not you're working with an OBDI or OBDII based chassis my first ECU of choice would be a P28 with the 5700 VTEC SK2 proggy (that's the ONLY proggy I like, Spoon 1/2, Mugen, PYR, etc. all suck in my opinion) or if you DO have an EK then just run a JDM ITR P73 as it has a lot better mapping and a higher (more well suited) VTEC x-over. Just my $0.02 tho

 

i do have a ek i was planning on running a p28 ecu...in that case you would suggest a p73? i also do not have to deal with any kind of smog or anything so that is not a problem at all. im going for strictly reliability 1st then performance. what do you suggest i do? thanks a lot for your help

 

What year is your EK? Whether it's a '96-98 or '99-00 I would still probably go with the chipped P28 and jumper only if you run the 5700 SK2 proggy. If you have a OBDIIa chassis ('96-98) the '96-99 JDM ITR P73 would actually be the <U>easiest</U> as it's straight plug and play (it is actually based off an OBDI board so doesn't need VTEC pressure, CKFS, or secondary oxygen sensor signal)... If your car is a '99-00 then you'll need an OBDIIb P73 ECU which makes it more difficult as you'll have to deal with bypassing the immobilizer, etc. I guess in the end it really just depends on the year of your car. Let me know and I'll get back to ya ASAP. -Adam

 

my car is obd2a its a 97 hatch get back to me man thanks.

 

B20z/GSR head- JUN III cams-= widen the valve reliefs! Valves would just barely tap the pistions, but it still needed to be done. I'd suggest the same to all VTEC users on a non VTEC block- just to be safe

 

Okay, '96-99 JDM ITR gets my vote

 

if you are using stock gsr cams, you dont want to run a vtec x over any higher than 4800. the low cam lobe dose not make power any higher than that and you will get a nice dip in the mid range with a 5700 x over.