something is wrong with my power doorlock on my 99 accord....i have to manually open and close the lock on the driver door only. the power doorlock works on the other 3 doors. does anyone know how to fix this? thanks in advance

 

It might be your actuator. Someone here before showed illustration on how to replace the actuator.

 

whats that?

 

actuator is a mechanism that moves your lock up and down. Its located inside near the door latch.

 

no beef but you probably better off taking it to the garage, since you dont seems to the wrench guy

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no beef but you probably better off taking it to the garage, since you dont seems to the wrench guy </TD></TR></TABLE>

whats that supposed to mean?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no beef but you probably better off taking it to the garage, since you dont seems to the wrench guy </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vietvicious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

whats that supposed to mean?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

It means "no beef(no offense) but you probably better off taking it to the garage, (but your better off taking it to a shop)since you dont seems to the wrench guy(because you don't seem like the type who knows)"

no offense as well..

 

my grandpa's camry has the same problem. the back left door doesn't work. sometimes even all of them don't work &gt;&lt;. it moves a little. but it doesn't fully unlock.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sh0rti &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It means "no beef(no offense) but you probably better off taking it to the garage, (but your better off taking it to a shop)since you dont seems to the wrench guy(because you don't seem like the type who knows)"

no offense as well.. </TD></TR></TABLE>i work on cars alot...i just never touched an accord b4

 

well like i said.. no offense

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sh0rti &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well like i said.. no offense </TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont care...u shouldnt have said anything at all......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vietvicious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i work on cars alot...i just never touched an accord b4</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow..what kind of cars do you work on mostly?
hot rods? almost all power lock is triggered by a electric motor called "actuator"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

wow..what kind of cars do you work on mostly?
hot rods? almost all power lock is triggered by a electric motor called "actuator"

</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeap....hot rod's......you wish....im a honda guy.....never worked with power door locks before. it never messed up on me...

 

keep it jdm. tear out the actuators. even the *****. hell pop out the door panels and paint your car green. subtract .02 seconds from your 1/4 mile time. guaranteed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shrekz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">keep it jdm. tear out the actuators. even the *****. hell pop out the door panels and paint your car green. subtract .02 seconds from your 1/4 mile time. guaranteed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hahaha

 

Your lock actuator motor is partially seized. You have to replace it before it seizes opened or closed. Condensation collects around the lock motor and eventually corrodes and seizes the motor. The electric lock actuator rod and the manual lock actuator rod connect to the same cam. You can remove the electric lock actuator and use the door manually if you like.
Or it's easy to change. Do you have a 10mm socket, a Philips screwdriver, a long 3/16" straight screwdriver, and a flashlight? These are all the tools you'll need. Trust me.
Remove the door skin. You can do this?
Pull open the plastic cover inside the door to reveal the lock mechanism.
Use the 10mm socket to remove the bolt that holds the lower window track. Look at the track to see how it is mounted. You will see the 10mm bolt. Loosen the track and pull it down to release it from the door. Pull the track out of the door cavity and set it aside.
Remove the driver's inside door actuator rod from the door and lock assembly. This rod runs from the pull handle inside the door to the lock assembly. Use the 3/16" straight to remove the rod clip at the lock assembly - same as you did to remove the rod from the door skin. Remove the rod from the door clips and set it aside.
Do not remove any other rods attached to the lock assembly.
Undo the 2 wiring connectors attached to the electric lock actuator and push them aside. The power lock actuator is mounted below the lock assembly and is held on to the lock assembly by 3 small philips screws.
Holding the lock assembly to the door are 3 philips 6mm screws. Remove these screws and loosen the lock assembly from the door.
Reaching inside the door cavity (however you like, this is for you to figure out) pull the lock assembly forward and twist the face so that you can see 4 philips screws located in the center of the general lock assembly. 3 small screws and 1 larger. (Is the flashlight in your mouth at about this point?). Do not twist the unit too much as you could damage the rods still attached to it.
Remove the larger screw first. This screw is the upper most and larger of the 4 screws and holds the brace for the inside door open/close ****. (Careful not to drop the screw in the door cavity). Push the brace aside and you can now see the electric lock actuator and door lock assembly more clearly. Study the lock and see how it works and remember how to put it back together. Take a pic if u have a digital. The outside door handle rod connects to the same cam as the electric lock actuator. Put it back this way!
Install your new electric lock actuator and reassemble the door.
If you did everything right your remote will work again. It's nice to know you can lock your doors. Wherever you are.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skiier &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your lock actuator motor is partially seized. You have to replace it before it seizes opened or closed. Condensation collects around the lock motor and eventually corrodes and seizes the motor. The electric lock actuator rod and the manual lock actuator rod connect to the same cam. You can remove the electric lock actuator and use the door manually if you like.
Or it's easy to change. Do you have a 10mm socket, a Philips screwdriver, a long 3/16" straight screwdriver, and a flashlight? These are all the tools you'll need. Trust me.
Remove the door skin. You can do this?
Pull open the plastic cover inside the door to reveal the lock mechanism.
Use the 10mm socket to remove the bolt that holds the lower window track. Look at the track to see how it is mounted. You will see the 10mm bolt. Loosen the track and pull it down to release it from the door. Pull the track out of the door cavity and set it aside.
Remove the driver's inside door actuator rod from the door and lock assembly. This rod runs from the pull handle inside the door to the lock assembly. Use the 3/16" straight to remove the rod clip at the lock assembly - same as you did to remove the rod from the door skin. Remove the rod from the door clips and set it aside.
Do not remove any other rods attached to the lock assembly.
Undo the 2 wiring connectors attached to the electric lock actuator and push them aside. The power lock actuator is mounted below the lock assembly and is held on to the lock assembly by 3 small philips screws.
Holding the lock assembly to the door are 3 philips 6mm screws. Remove these screws and loosen the lock assembly from the door.
Reaching inside the door cavity (however you like, this is for you to figure out) pull the lock assembly forward and twist the face so that you can see 4 philips screws located in the center of the general lock assembly. 3 small screws and 1 larger. (Is the flashlight in your mouth at about this point?). Do not twist the unit too much as you could damage the rods still attached to it.
Remove the larger screw first. This screw is the upper most and larger of the 4 screws and holds the brace for the inside door open/close ****. (Careful not to drop the screw in the door cavity). Push the brace aside and you can now see the electric lock actuator and door lock assembly more clearly. Study the lock and see how it works and remember how to put it back together. Take a pic if u have a digital. The outside door handle rod connects to the same cam as the electric lock actuator. Put it back this way!
Install your new electric lock actuator and reassemble the door.
If you did everything right your remote will work again. It's nice to know you can lock your doors. Wherever you are.</TD></TR></TABLE>

copy and paste.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skiier &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your lock actuator motor is partially seized. You have to replace it before it seizes opened or closed. Condensation collects around the lock motor and eventually corrodes and seizes the motor. The electric lock actuator rod and the manual lock actuator rod connect to the same cam. You can remove the electric lock actuator and use the door manually if you like.
Or it's easy to change. Do you have a 10mm socket, a Philips screwdriver, a long 3/16" straight screwdriver, and a flashlight? These are all the tools you'll need. Trust me.
Remove the door skin. You can do this?
Pull open the plastic cover inside the door to reveal the lock mechanism.
Use the 10mm socket to remove the bolt that holds the lower window track. Look at the track to see how it is mounted. You will see the 10mm bolt. Loosen the track and pull it down to release it from the door. Pull the track out of the door cavity and set it aside.
Remove the driver's inside door actuator rod from the door and lock assembly. This rod runs from the pull handle inside the door to the lock assembly. Use the 3/16" straight to remove the rod clip at the lock assembly - same as you did to remove the rod from the door skin. Remove the rod from the door clips and set it aside.
Do not remove any other rods attached to the lock assembly.
Undo the 2 wiring connectors attached to the electric lock actuator and push them aside. The power lock actuator is mounted below the lock assembly and is held on to the lock assembly by 3 small philips screws.
Holding the lock assembly to the door are 3 philips 6mm screws. Remove these screws and loosen the lock assembly from the door.
Reaching inside the door cavity (however you like, this is for you to figure out) pull the lock assembly forward and twist the face so that you can see 4 philips screws located in the center of the general lock assembly. 3 small screws and 1 larger. (Is the flashlight in your mouth at about this point?). Do not twist the unit too much as you could damage the rods still attached to it.
Remove the larger screw first. This screw is the upper most and larger of the 4 screws and holds the brace for the inside door open/close ****. (Careful not to drop the screw in the door cavity). Push the brace aside and you can now see the electric lock actuator and door lock assembly more clearly. Study the lock and see how it works and remember how to put it back together. Take a pic if u have a digital. The outside door handle rod connects to the same cam as the electric lock actuator. Put it back this way!
Install your new electric lock actuator and reassemble the door.
If you did everything right your remote will work again. It's nice to know you can lock your doors. Wherever you are.

</TD></TR></TABLE>


thanks......

 

the lock started to work again..so its kew now....