Can you guys please gimme feedback on my alignment???
I have a 97 Integra with Skunk2 front UCA's and Ohlins coilovers.
FL: FR:
Camber: -2.1 -2.1
Caster: 1.2 deg. -.1 deg
Toe: -.03 -.03
RR: RL:
Camber: -1.3 -2.0
Toe: .01 .01
What I'm concerned about is my FR caster and RR camber. What do you guys see and recommend I do? Thanks.
FL: FR:
Camber: -2.1 -2.1
Caster: 1.2 deg. -.1 deg
Toe: -.03 -.03
RR: RL:
Camber: -1.3 -2.0
Toe: .01 .01
What I'm concerned about is my FR caster and RR camber. What do you guys see and recommend I do? Thanks.
im asuming negative toe means toe out. otherwise, id reverse it.
the rear camber can be evened out with just shims, but youll be dialing out the negative camber to match the -1.3. cant say is -1.3 where you want to be tho, otherwise your options are like mike said get a rear camber adjuster, those adjustable heim joints in place of the upper control arm, or just bang in the left side to move the anchor in more. i dont really recommend that tho.
not sure about the suspension on the 97 integra, i know on CRX's caster can be adjustbed by the tightening or shimming the front radius rods. i wouldnt be surprised if the difference was due to the skunk2 uca's tho.
the rear camber can be evened out with just shims, but youll be dialing out the negative camber to match the -1.3. cant say is -1.3 where you want to be tho, otherwise your options are like mike said get a rear camber adjuster, those adjustable heim joints in place of the upper control arm, or just bang in the left side to move the anchor in more. i dont really recommend that tho.
not sure about the suspension on the 97 integra, i know on CRX's caster can be adjustbed by the tightening or shimming the front radius rods. i wouldnt be surprised if the difference was due to the skunk2 uca's tho.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicrr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Loosen the subframe & either move the passenger side back or the drivers forward. Check again.
Get camber adjusters.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Can you recommend someone who can do this for me? I just had my alignment done at Auto Innovations and they told me to go to a body shop. Would you like to do it as a sidejob?
Get camber adjusters.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Can you recommend someone who can do this for me? I just had my alignment done at Auto Innovations and they told me to go to a body shop. Would you like to do it as a sidejob?
Remove the two bolts that hold the rear right upper control arm to the frame. Insert two washers between the frame and the arm while reinserting the bolts.
This should get you about right with the camber.
This should get you about right with the camber.
Two washers for each bolt or one on each? Also, how thick of a washer should I need?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JeffS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remove the two bolts that hold the rear right upper control arm to the frame. Insert two washers between the frame and the arm while reinserting the bolts.
This should get you about right with the camber.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JeffS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remove the two bolts that hold the rear right upper control arm to the frame. Insert two washers between the frame and the arm while reinserting the bolts.
This should get you about right with the camber.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Body shops typically have a frame rack with hydraulic tools & anchors that can 'bend' things where they need to be. They also have the means to measure the points on the frame & chassis to see if they are in spec.
The subframe does have a tiny bit of slop in it that will allow the bottom attachment point to move. I can't tell you if it will be enough. Honestly, your best bet is a frame rack if you are worried about the caster. Just get some Ingalls or SRP camber adjusters for the back.
The subframe does have a tiny bit of slop in it that will allow the bottom attachment point to move. I can't tell you if it will be enough. Honestly, your best bet is a frame rack if you are worried about the caster. Just get some Ingalls or SRP camber adjusters for the back.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jonnybravo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I guess other question is, should I be concerned with my caster?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are both numbers in spec? Does the car pull? Does it feel any different turning left vs turning right?
If it feels ok and the numbers are close to spec, I wouldn't worry about it.
Are both numbers in spec? Does the car pull? Does it feel any different turning left vs turning right?
If it feels ok and the numbers are close to spec, I wouldn't worry about it.
Car has a slight pull to the right. The front right caster is .3 (spec is .2-2.2)out of the spec range. Car has a slight pull to the right. I can't tell too much if the left and right turning is drastically affected.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crack Monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Are both numbers in spec? Does the car pull? Does it feel any different turning left vs turning right?
If it feels ok and the numbers are close to spec, I wouldn't worry about it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crack Monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Are both numbers in spec? Does the car pull? Does it feel any different turning left vs turning right?
If it feels ok and the numbers are close to spec, I wouldn't worry about it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Solracer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is your car level side to side? If the the right rear is lower than the LR then it could proabaly have more camber.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Fronts are level. The right rear is actually about 1/8" higher then the left. So it's actually opposite of what you are saying that gives me concerns...
Fronts are level. The right rear is actually about 1/8" higher then the left. So it's actually opposite of what you are saying that gives me concerns...
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jonnybravo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Car has a slight pull to the right. The front right caster is .3 (spec is .2-2.2)out of the spec range. Car has a slight pull to the right. I can't tell too much if the left and right turning is drastically affected.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
IMO, try moving the subframe as suggested above. If that doesn't work, I'd leave it be unless it really annoys you or you start to see odd tire wear.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
IMO, try moving the subframe as suggested above. If that doesn't work, I'd leave it be unless it really annoys you or you start to see odd tire wear.
(Hope not to threadjack, but to help out)
Here's my alignment specs from awhile ago. They're probably a little different now because I changed my ride height and put some bolts in the rear to bring the camber back up, (but I can't remember if I did it before/after the alignment) Notice the .5" setback...that's fun to race with. But, does your car look anything like this?
Here's my alignment specs from awhile ago. They're probably a little different now because I changed my ride height and put some bolts in the rear to bring the camber back up, (but I can't remember if I did it before/after the alignment) Notice the .5" setback...that's fun to race with. But, does your car look anything like this?
Front is about .3 degrees out of spec. There is a slight pull to the right... SO I really shouldn't worry too much about it then right?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crack Monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Are both numbers in spec? Does the car pull? Does it feel any different turning left vs turning right?
If it feels ok and the numbers are close to spec, I wouldn't worry about it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crack Monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Are both numbers in spec? Does the car pull? Does it feel any different turning left vs turning right?
If it feels ok and the numbers are close to spec, I wouldn't worry about it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
OK, thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crack Monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
IMO, try moving the subframe as suggested above. If that doesn't work, I'd leave it be unless it really annoys you or you start to see odd tire wear.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crack Monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
IMO, try moving the subframe as suggested above. If that doesn't work, I'd leave it be unless it really annoys you or you start to see odd tire wear.</TD></TR></TABLE>
At least all of your numbers are within spec. Only thing I see off much is the camber difference but it looks like you have that taken car of.
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