camber kits
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda2nr4life »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i prefer the Skunk2 UCA camber kit for the front and for the rear, washer trick.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what he said
. i am running this setup as well.
what he said
. i am running this setup as well.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda2nr4life »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i prefer the Skunk2 UCA camber kit for the front and for the rear, washer trick.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is going to be my set up too.
That is going to be my set up too.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by patmcd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That is going to be my set up too.
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yep i cant wait i have my neuspeed race springs sittin in my room just waiting for my skunk2 kit
That is going to be my set up too.
</TD></TR></TABLE>yep i cant wait i have my neuspeed race springs sittin in my room just waiting for my skunk2 kit
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zilverz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my ingals was high quality and works great
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how low are you? do you still have negative camber? because the ingalls kit is not as adjustable as the skunk2
</TD></TR></TABLE>how low are you? do you still have negative camber? because the ingalls kit is not as adjustable as the skunk2
Skunk2 front kits are nice, but expensive. We have a set on our track car, but that's only because when I got it from my friend he already had it on there. Otherwise, I either use the Progress or Sprint front camber kits (usually under $90 for the fronts brand new) and use the washers in the back. Rather than replacing the entire upper A arm like the Skunk2 kit, it just replaces the joints and pivot point on the stock A arm to adjust the camber. But when you use the washers, you loose a lot of thread on the bolt so it's good to go to a hardware store, pick up 4 new M10 x 1.50 bolts that are about a 1/2 inch longer for better assurance.... for $.20 a bolt, why not.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,940
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by theJUMPoff »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">***** camber kit!
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I agree, camber kits are overrated IMHO unless you track your car and want to dial in a specific camber setting.
Running straight up 0 camber is ghey and detracts from the car's handling ability.
<-- 3" drop w/ -2.5 camber, and 25K miles on my current tires.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I agree, camber kits are overrated IMHO unless you track your car and want to dial in a specific camber setting.
Running straight up 0 camber is ghey and detracts from the car's handling ability.
<-- 3" drop w/ -2.5 camber, and 25K miles on my current tires.
I've noticed a lot of people recommend skunk, and they may work fine for some people, but i seen quite a few bend. pesonally, i don't trust those 4 little bolts to hold their position under hard driving.
I would go with comptech, if you have the money.
and just cause you get a camber kit doesn't mean that the camber is being set to 0.00 degrees. it allows you to set it to stock settings, or adjust it to what ever. not getting a camber kit is just a nother half assed cheaper way to get by when modding your car. Sure is works for now, but doesn't mean its right.
I would go with comptech, if you have the money.
and just cause you get a camber kit doesn't mean that the camber is being set to 0.00 degrees. it allows you to set it to stock settings, or adjust it to what ever. not getting a camber kit is just a nother half assed cheaper way to get by when modding your car. Sure is works for now, but doesn't mean its right.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I agree, camber kits are overrated IMHO unless you track your car and want to dial in a specific camber setting.
Running straight up 0 camber is ghey and detracts from the car's handling ability.
<-- 3" drop w/ -2.5 camber, and 25K miles on my current tires.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
no camber kit either
I agree, camber kits are overrated IMHO unless you track your car and want to dial in a specific camber setting.
Running straight up 0 camber is ghey and detracts from the car's handling ability.
<-- 3" drop w/ -2.5 camber, and 25K miles on my current tires.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
no camber kit either
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,940
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sukebei Oni »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not getting a camber kit is just a nother half assed cheaper way to get by when modding your car. Sure is works for now, but doesn't mean its right.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I disagree... what's the point of getting one if setting the toe alignment correctly and frequent tire rotation will remedy most tire problems, even with negative camber? IMHO if you do those things, and still get excessive wear, then you're too low anyway and the car probably handles worse than it could otherwise.
I personally do not want a kit because I don't want to worry about it slipping out of alignment (which is possible with ANY sort of kit, be it the Ingall's or similar replacement bolt, or Skunk2 or similar replacement arms, whatever), and other problems like hitting the seam in the fenderwell, squeeking, etc.
I would rather use alignment settings to prevent tire wear, and enjoy the handling advantages of having more negative camber.
I disagree... what's the point of getting one if setting the toe alignment correctly and frequent tire rotation will remedy most tire problems, even with negative camber? IMHO if you do those things, and still get excessive wear, then you're too low anyway and the car probably handles worse than it could otherwise.
I personally do not want a kit because I don't want to worry about it slipping out of alignment (which is possible with ANY sort of kit, be it the Ingall's or similar replacement bolt, or Skunk2 or similar replacement arms, whatever), and other problems like hitting the seam in the fenderwell, squeeking, etc.
I would rather use alignment settings to prevent tire wear, and enjoy the handling advantages of having more negative camber.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraBoy04 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you really get that much better handling from negative camber?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Defintaly, with 0 camber when your car goes into a turn the cars inside suspension compress and adds more camber and help keep the tire flat on the groun and the cars outside suspension gaines camber and decreases the contact patch, if you have negative camber when this happens then how much contact patch you loose is lessened... I think that made sense
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Camber does not wear tires quickly, with negative camber you are riding more on the inside of the tire... but the inside of the tire should wear the normal lifespan of the tire (unless you are autocrossing or hpdeing) In correct toe however cuase your car to drag your tires acroos the pavement and whears them quickly This / \ and this \ / are the problem. When ever you raise and lower your car (double wishbone suspnesion) camber and toe change.
Defintaly, with 0 camber when your car goes into a turn the cars inside suspension compress and adds more camber and help keep the tire flat on the groun and the cars outside suspension gaines camber and decreases the contact patch, if you have negative camber when this happens then how much contact patch you loose is lessened... I think that made sense
.Camber does not wear tires quickly, with negative camber you are riding more on the inside of the tire... but the inside of the tire should wear the normal lifespan of the tire (unless you are autocrossing or hpdeing) In correct toe however cuase your car to drag your tires acroos the pavement and whears them quickly This / \ and this \ / are the problem. When ever you raise and lower your car (double wishbone suspnesion) camber and toe change.







