hey everyone...im a newbie and i was trying to get some suggestion from all you guys(since ive read alot of thread and seen some impressive reply)

i have a d16a6 and i want to build it..(low bugdet h/s student) want to go turbo after building the motor..can someone tell me what kind of mods should/need to be done ?? all help appreciated.. thanks

 

well the thing is i DONT know how much money and what to get ..im just lookin for suggestion and seeing how close i am to get it done ,mayb one thing at a time..

 

i don't think you should build up your d16.... save some money and get a swap... it'll be worth it in the end...

 

but the thingy is my motor is already build, but i just dont know whats been done to it.....so i was thinking if my goal is to run 13 daily driven i wouldnt have to pay as much as i would if i was to swap and do all that.. or am i wrong?? if soo can someone tell me a set up that can make me run 13 daily.. thanks

 

You can run 13's on a d16a6 with stock internals. I know people who have done it. It's not going to be all there in reliability but it *is possible*.

Generally there are two different kinds of *built* motors:

High compression (for N/A) meaning there is as much air being forced into the engine as possible via combustion cycle from different cams, pistons, etc.

The other, respectively is Low Compression. The basic idea behind it is to allow more room for mass amounts of air (thanks to Forced Induction) to be forced into the combustion chambers. Then with an increased amount of fuel you are going to be pumping out mad amouns of horsepower.

Obviously turbo is less reliable, the amount of force is pushed to the extreme, and since you're using more air, you're also using more fuel.

This is a very obvious approach but by the sounds of it you might need it. So go find out how your engine is "built" because if you have some high compression internals, throwing a turbo on it is just plain stupid.

 

Agreed, find out exactly what was/is done to your motor. I have had a b-series swap, and now am going sohc turbo (see sig). The swap was nice and reliable, but I will be a lot faster boosted. I say stick with the sohc and boost it. BTW-what car is the motor in? You will be faster with the turbo sohc. Yes, you can go b-series and have the potential for higher horsepower if you boost that, but it doesn't seem worth it because you can make more than enough hp for the street with the sohc. Also, engines are cheap if something happens.

 

ok lets just say i have a stok motor...what do i need / have to do to make a safe build,turbo daily 13's crx?

 

you would need to build the internals, or have tuning done by the hand of god for it to be daily driven and reliable stock. seriously though, zdyne, ghettodyne, turboedit would be your best bet for management. if you completely gut the car it may be pretty realistic goal. 13s would be def doable for every now and then on stock internals. Also dont forget if your clutch is stock, it wont last long.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gotriceboy05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok lets just say i have a stok motor...what do i need / have to do to make a safe build,turbo daily 13's crx?
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A d16a6 running 13's means you're going to be wanting around 180 hp at the wheels I'd say.

To top off stock internals, you're not going to want to push the boost over 10 psi.

Basically I would say you need around $1500 to do this safely.

If I did it, and I do thinks junkyard style This is what you'd be looking at.

3 Layer Headgasket (Metal) $60
EP Rom buner + Turbo Edit (free) + Chipped ECU labor= $200
Turbo $125
Intercooler $150
Charge Piping and couplers $125
Injectors $40
Blow Off Valve $50
HF Manifold Turbo Adapter Plate $45
HF Manifold $25
Downpipe and Adapter Plate $50
Boost Gauge and Controller $150
Oil Lines and Tap $50

Then throw in another $400 for various gaskets, seals, bearings, and labor on the parts incase you need to modify anything you cant do on your own....
You're looking at $1500 for a system fully capable pushing out 10 psi reliable.


This is my opinion on what I'd do. You could easily cut quite a few of those off if you wanted to.

Now compare that to the price of a b-series set up and you'll understand why turbo-D's are so popular. And if you blow the motor up, another d16a6 is about $250, and thats if you acually blow the entire thing.


I've also sort of listed the prices a little bit higher than normal. If you're a penny packer and like to search hard for a good deal, you can easily do this all for under 1000 I'm sure.

 

jedubz - excellent post.

The setup I will be running (it's all going in on Thursday) is as follows:
y7 block/a6 head = ~9.2:1 compression, all stock (except for cam)
Apexi manifold and IHI turbo
JohnnyRaceCar fmic
DSM 450s
SAFC
Hallman mbc
Apexi bov
Autometer boost gauge
2.5" dp
etc

I got the complete setup for $1800 and will run 10 psi on the hack. Tuned I hope to hit 200whp at sea level. I don't know, however, what the car will run up here at Bandimere (5800 ft above sea level). I'm getting closer to 1900 lbs right now. Anyway, the setup can be done for a lot cheaper as noted. You should be pretty reliable on a stock d-series at boost levels up to this (with the right tuning/enough fuel). You can get pistons/rods/blockguard for pretty cheap and crank the boost up.

 

bah, stay n/a...or if you must, put a 55 or 75 shot on there...but atleast you can turn that off so you aren't constantly being stuck with forced induction... if you stay n/a get a nice cam (I've got a delta 272 and for the few days I've had it I'm loving it) and re-do valves and springs, get a port and polish..maybe mill the head and get a y8 head gasket. then you basic bolt ons intake/header/exhaust and try to get some dyno tuning time and you'll be sittin' pretty. maybe not into the 13's that fast, but that's what the 55/75 shot is for!

 

D-series= Dime a dozen

OBD0 B-series= Expensive and MAYBE hard to find parts for a deccent price.

I just bought a full b16 swap not to long ago, but im holding off on it.

I think im going to build up the z6 for boost.

 

For Budget I'd see if Exospeed is still doing their offer on cams
Search Race A6 cam - you'll see matt J has one of these and likes it!!!
I'd go Exo Cam over VTEC head anyday

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h45454 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jedubz - excellent post.

The setup I will be running (it's all going in on Thursday) is as follows:
y7 block/a6 head = ~9.2:1 compression, all stock (except for cam)
Apexi manifold and IHI turbo
JohnnyRaceCar fmic
DSM 450s
SAFC
Hallman mbc
Apexi bov
Autometer boost gauge
2.5" dp
etc

I got the complete setup for $1800 and will run 10 psi on the hack. Tuned I hope to hit 200whp at sea level. I don't know, however, what the car will run up here at Bandimere (5800 ft above sea level). I'm getting closer to 1900 lbs right now. Anyway, the setup can be done for a lot cheaper as noted. You should be pretty reliable on a stock d-series at boost levels up to this (with the right tuning/enough fuel). You can get pistons/rods/blockguard for pretty cheap and crank the boost up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Looking to be an awesome set up dude. Are you on TurboD16.com or HomeMadeTurbo.com ? I might have talked to you on one of those places before because I remember a similar set up.

 

No man, but I purchased the setup from a guy on turbod16.

 

thanks for all the info...but when i meant "let say i have stock motor" i didnt mean hitin 13 with stock internal..i mean you coulda added what i need to build in the internal and safe boost for a daily use...but thanks again for all the great info.

 

Here's a post i jus did on d16 buildups:

your goal is only 13s? that should be no problem. We have been building 13 second d16a6 setups in CRX for years without touching the BOTTOM end. thats pretty much a great head work with the proper cam.

imagine 13 seconds with a stock bottom end. its possible.

 

Yo Wil,
wasn't this rex featured a while back with a Civic of the same vintage with a B18 swap????
I member that paint scheme from somewhere

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HumanResource &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yo Wil,
wasn't this rex featured a while back with a Civic of the same vintage with a B18 swap????
I member that paint scheme from somewhere</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm nope. it was only famous on the street races of Ontario,CA hehehe.
this CRX never had a B series in it. our other BLUE CRX used to be silver and had a 12 sec Lsvtec in it.

 

I must be tripping then

 

by the time you spend the money on a turbo set up you mind as well get a B series... SOHC turbos arent that fast anyway

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fuckecheck &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">by the time you spend the money on a turbo set up you mind as well get a B series... SOHC turbos arent that fast anyway</TD></TR></TABLE>

WTF! - I really cannot believe you just said that...

 

my suggestion. home mad turbo kit dont build the engine. I pulled the numbers in my sig on homemade setup. U can do it too for like $800 or less

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fuckecheck &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">by the time you spend the money on a turbo set up you mind as well get a B series... SOHC turbos arent that fast anyway</TD></TR></TABLE>

theres plenty of stock block SOHC Turbos putting out good times.

there's several that I know of here in So Cal that are doing 11's on stock block with just using Off the Shelf DRAG and Rev Hard turbo kits.

and most SOHC VTEC turbos can do 12's easily as well at only 9psi. stock block too.