Hey whats up guys I've been having a hell of a time installin this differential and now when I put the case back on there is about a 1/8th inch gap around it. Also I have included a picture and circled the metal clip. Does the metal clip have to go into a certain part of the tranny case? and also how do you all line up the metal piece at the top of the main shaft that goes into the case? and will the case go on if that little metal piece is not perfectly in? The pic shows a circle around the metal clip and an arrow pointing to the top of the main shaft where the metal tab is too. let me know please. thankyou

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg

 

take the little ring and open it up the same way you had to to get the casing off and it should slide right back on.

 

that little ring isnt even on, i believe that ring was just holding the smaller shaft onto the case, but its not even on so i dont think thats it but I could be wrong but I dont think so. There is a 1/8" gap. Anyone else? should I just leave the thin gap and start tightening the bolts in a star patter to bring it down or will that be a bad idea?

 

Hey, sorry I took so long to get back to you... Haven't really been on H-T this weekend... Anywho, since I'm back down at school I don't actually have any Quaife diffs but we do have a couple at the shop... Since you mentioned that the ring gear is sitting up a bit higher, it really doe sound like the bearing isn't on all thew way... Did you use a hydrolic press to get them on? If that's not the case then it is possible that the mainshaft spring clip isn't sliding on all the way... The reason there isn't a tab on the top of the mainshaft is because the pic I sent you is of a cable tranny... Not that it's really any different, just making sure you know... You'll want the tab on yours to point straight up, perpendicular to the bottom of the tranny (so if it were in the pic it would be straight up)... If you are still unsure look into your trannies outer casing (it'll have a slot for the tab to slide into)... You might want to try putting the casing together with your 1/8" gap and flipping the whole thing over (opposite the pic) so that the bell housing is facing upward... This gets the weight of the mainshaft/gears pressing down which most of the time allows the spring clip to pop into place (letting your housings come together)... I'm going to be heading back to the shop this coming weekend (after another ******* week of school, haha) so hopefully you'll have it installed by then but if not let me know and I'll take a few pics of some Quaife's with bearings installed... Good Luck -Adam

 

Mine did the same thing. All you have to do is put it on and sort of drop it. It should pop right in. Tony1 once said to check for any burrs on the inside of the case where the bearing seats. They are machined to such close tolerances that any little defect will prevent it from working. The tightening bolt idea is a bad one IMO.

-Ryan

 

Yea, I agree with Ryan, absoluetly do NOT just crank down the bolts to try and close the case...

 

im not having a problem with the clip because the case wont close with both shafts out of it. I think the either the bearing isnt on all the way or its the wrong bearing. Arent type R bearing and b16 bearings the same?

 

I had this problem when I 1st put a quaife in. What you have to do is make sure you line up the notch on the main shaft with the notch in the case. Once you get this in the snap ring might or might not be all the way in the grove or around the shaft. So if this happens then bolt it down (case must be on all the way at this point) with 4 bolts and turn the case upside down and it will slide in. then follow the helms with the torque sequence and specs.

art

 

I stll cant get the quaife in, the case wont close because the top half hits the bearing. the bearing is too high. I took it to quaife and they think it might be the vss gear thats on the quaife is different from my stock vss gear. I got it off someone who had an ls

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had this problem when I 1st put a quaife in. What you have to do is make sure you line up the notch on the main shaft with the notch in the case. Once you get this in the snap ring might or might not be all the way in the grove or around the shaft. So if this happens then bolt it down (case must be on all the way at this point) with 4 bolts and turn the case upside down and it will slide in. then follow the helms with the torque sequence and specs.

art</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont have the shafts in at all.

 

On some of the trannies I've worked on, the differential sometimes doesn't go in perfectly straight. You sometimes have to tap around it to drop in completely.

Thats probably not the problem though, I've found that if you put the tranny in 4th gear (like the Helms manual says), the case slips on much easier. Also, Arturbo is right, the notch needs to be lined up with the case, or it will never go on correctly. The notch goes to very close where it is in the pic. Closer to the 12:30-1 o'clock position if looking at it like the picture.

 

thanks guys but Im awhere of all that. but at this point I don't even have the shafts in. The only thing in the case is the differential. It sits too high. after inspection the bearings for one dont go down as low on the differntial as they do on the stock diff cuz there is a like step. I could get that metal piece lathed so the bearing goes on lower or I dont know, maybe cut the case. But what the hell is this why so difficult? I think it could also be the speedo gear on the diff.

 

How did you press on the bearings?

 

type r bearings are thicker then the b16 bearings. if its a gsr quaife then you need the type r bearings and then reshim. also the main shaft sticks out beyond the bell housing so if you have the trans on a flat bench you gonna have a hell of a time. put a couple peices of wood underneath so the mainshaft can drop all the way down.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ninesecteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">type r bearings are thicker then the b16 bearings. if its a gsr quaife then you need the type r bearings and then reshim. also the main shaft sticks out beyond the bell housing so if you have the trans on a flat bench you gonna have a hell of a time. put a couple peices of wood underneath so the mainshaft can drop all the way down. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Are u sure type R bearings are thicker? If so then I bet that could be it. thry seem to be the same size.


Modified by Ek00fbp at 3:47 AM 3/3/2004

 

yes! i run a gsr quaife and you have to use the r bearings. with the b16/LS quaife you use the b16 bearing. that has to be it.


Modified by ninesecteg at 10:21 PM 3/3/2004

 

So i took the b16 bearing off my b16 differential and comapred it side by side next to my stock bearings and underneath the type r bearing there is a lip that makes it stick up higher. So I guess the 1/8" gap in my case is because I was using the type r bearing when I should have used b16. Damnit, damnit to hell. this **** has been apart for almost 2 weeks now. I cant wait to get the new bearings on and throw it in already. I hope it all works out.