Looking to turbo my F22b1 Accord motor. Just want to check about diffrent size turbos, brand names, and prices, any info? Thanks

 

If you plan on building a REAL nice kit its gonna be as much as a already assembled kit....your looking at 3g's or less if buying a used kit...if you go junkyard maybe under 1g...but remember, that is JUNKYARD stuff. I like the bling factor so my own set up will be at least 3g's all together, if not more. check out the sponsors on this site, theres one that gives a discount to H-T members on turbo parts.

 

I would piece your kit together. I am not going to go in great lengths. I will tell you this you can get you i.c. piping from fmax for 275 bux any color. The reason i do not want to go in length is because i do not know what you want.

 

go into detail primo im also looking to piece together a turbo kit... thinking only 8psi max, maybe something small like t25'ish... what all really has to be done or changed

 

If you want it done right buy a kit. It will save you alot of time and hassle. Plus you can still build upon that if you choose to every want more. Plus, getting a kit from one place is alot easier to find help on rather then parts from every where.

 

meh im seeing turbo'ing as a cheaper form of getting power... so if i wanna go out and spend a couple grand i might as well go back to my previous idea of swapping an h22a... less power but only like $2300 and its sexier

 

you can definitely piece together a nice kit for under 2500...i've seen it done numerous times...just keep in mind that with 8 psi, you don't need a $500 gigantic intercooler (which is one of the reasons why the kits are so expensive) nor do you need the large t3/t04 turbo...a t25 would be a great turbo to use for this project...you might even be able to use a dsm intercooler if you want since your boost levels will be so low...start small and gradually get bigger as you go...

 

http://www.prostreetonline.com...A2501

Turbo kit for $1600 shipped.. doesnt sound too bad

The kit with the intercooler and BOV is only $2000 also.

 

anyone actually boosting on an f22b1? or know of anyone who has... id kinda like to know just how they did their setup

 

parts from a drag kit here and there but mostly custom for me

 

want to go all mastercard priceless style for me?

blah blha blah turbo - $xxx
blah blah manifold - $xxx

 

you can boost more than just 8psi on the f22... i heard up to 12 without changing any internals... but you should do more research before you slap on a turbo... here is how it is h22 you got reliable power but you won't get as much torque as a turbo setup... turbo you might run into some problems... but hey i would stick to the turbo!!! that psshhhtt sound is so sexy...

 

im in the process of boosting my accord so far i have a Nissan 16v9 ball-bearing turbo (basically a straight T3), revhard manifold, tial 38mm WG w/ 9psi spring, Greddy type s BOV, Vortech 12:1 FMU....have some hook-ups for an FMIC...still need a walbro 255fp Pump, missing link, boost controller and IC piping...then im done.. i dont cheap out when it comes to turbo parts.. and thats a very good setup ... run those parts or similar parts and u will have a very fast car for weighing 3000 pounds!stock i will be able to run around 8-9 psi daily, and at the track around 10-11ish running on CAM 2 race gas (110 octane) this setup will eat an h22a by atleast 3 car lengths.. boost is better! and cheaper to do than full h22a swap.. mine is gunna cost me 3000-3500$ CDN soo. around 2200-2700$ US... for everything done and working in my car.. think about it.. on an f22a its 2.2ltr (lots of air flow and torque) plus the advantage of low compression.. although you have Vtec which is alot better performance...its around 8-10 WHP per 1 psi of boost.. my accord starts at 140hp so.. at 9 psi i'll be running aproxx 230-235 hp.. ON STOCK INTERNALS.. head gap/block gaurd that ****.. and run 10-12 psi DAILY...thats 260hp easily and not straining your internals.. i know tons about boosting accords.. if u wanna know more.. just ask some questions..!

 

in the next few months im probably going to be pm'ing you quite a bit

 

You see, My F22b has 140k miles. I want to boost and pull about 225-250whp daily driven. This can't be done ligit. withought rebuilding my engine. what kind of procedure will I need to take and what kind of parts will need to be replaced to hold boost? Thanks

 

should be able to get by with new bearings, rings, gaskets... and some good cleaning

 

um why would he need new "gaskets, bearings, and a good cleaning?"

it's not really building up an engine.


i'm having no problems with 260 hp on 105,000. i don't see how 35k more miles would make a big difference. do a compression check and go from there. If you don't know what a compression check is, you should hold off on boost and try to learn a bit more on what you're getting into.

 

ooops i thought he was asking how he could get his motor to act like it had less miles on it. my bad lol

 

if you want 250 WHP.. then you need to get some tuning done after your setup has been installed and run at a low amount of boost just wo work it in and let the engine (get used to) so to speak with the turbo on there.. and then you need to figure out problems before tuning and turning up boost.. problems that u might have is running too LEAN.. making sure fuel is running and being sent properly is KEY to any boost application.. start off with a good 7-8 PSI.. and tinker abit with your settings.. and make sure u think everything is running right before doing anything else.. i know this cuz i know alot of ppl with blown motors after smashing the boost up on stock internals..

now.. if you want to turn the boost up alil later.. after u know everything about ur engine is in PRIME condition.. (mileage is more/less not so much a worry) but fuel delivery... combustion.. and cooling is what needs to be looked after.... turning up the boost requires higher octane gas.. to prevent detonation.. this is a MUST. since more boost is being added... more heat and fuel is needed.. in esscense raising the temp of your mixture.. raise it too much.. and BOOOM say goodbye to a motor.. another MUST.. is timing! needs to be retarded (no pun intended) retarding your timing also prevents from pre-detonation and allows for a smoother combustion when running high amounts of boost... then.. when allllll this is takin care of... TUNING!.. i cannot stress this enough.. if you want your car to be running high boost DAILY DRIVEN.. TUNING.. is the definate key with either all-motor or forced induction.... if it is possible to get hooked up with a good tuner and a dyno.. the money is WORTH every penny.... think about it.. tuning a turbo'd car works with this process (hopefully a SAFC.. or in ur case VAFC is available for you to use) changing you air/fuel curves can get the most out of any engines PEAK performance.. the dyno is setup and engine tinkering takes place and a simple first run will go.. just to see where u stand.. then your engine will be upp'd to the MAX amount of BOOST your car is speculated to handle on stock internals or whatever the tuner see's fit.. this means.. your air/fuel ratio;s are permenantly set on ur VAFC for ANY amount of boost.. this takes a couple hours of tuning to get everything running perfect.. but in the end.. u come out with a PERFECT air/fuel mixture combustion which means amazing gas mileage.. max amount of horsepower at any PSI of boost.. and the WHP number to prove yourself some good numbers.. although u take into mind that the different amounts of boost the different WHP #'s u get.. lol.. i can say alot more about this.. but i forgive anyone that reads this NOVEL.. but for whoever is interested in turbo'ing your accord.. or whatever.. please feel free to IM me any questions or comments/concerns or post up on here... =c)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4genaccordfreak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Vortech 12:1 FMU....have some hook-ups for an FMIC...still need a walbro 255fp Pump, missing link, boost controller and IC piping...then im done.. i dont cheap out when it comes to turbo parts.. and thats a very good setup ... run those parts or similar parts and u will have a very fast car for weighing 3000 pounds!stock i will be able to run around 8-9 psi daily, and at the track around 10-11ish running on CAM 2 race gas (110 octane) </TD></TR></TABLE>

10-11 psi on an FMU and a walboro intank is going to kill your motor fast, @ 10 psi you're going to add an ADDITIONAL 120 psi of fuel pressure to your stock fuel pressure - your walboro won't be able to keep up, hell my inLINE pump wouldn't be able to do that.

 

i'm actually running the prostreet intercooled turbo setup. its a t25 bb turbo that spools up superfast. most will think its too small for making good horsepower. they are wrong, it can easily make 220. it's true that it loses its efficiency at higher rpms, but you gotta remember that your f22 only revs up to 6300 stock. i'm running around 7 psi with a hallman mbc. i'm also using the 2 additional injectors with the injector controller computer. so far the vac/boost transition is smooth although i'm running on the rich side. part throttle doesnt buck like it would with a fpr and pump setup. it also comes with an electronic map sensor adjuster- identical to the ones that come with the jackson racing supercharger kits. i reach full boost before 3000 rpm but i get alot of turbo lag because i'm runnin sleeper with the factory exhaust. i really cant complain because i was able to get the intercooled kit 1500 shipped.

 

Wow, thanks for all the info guys, keep it commin. I will be in Cancun for the next week so I will have to search for this thread when I get back. I will be changing my member name, So 4genaccordfreak I will contact you sometime with some more questions just under a diffrent name. Thanks

 

i'm slowly starting to collect parts for my f22b1 turbo setup...so i just wanted to get in on this thread. keep the info/opinions rolling!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by notoriousB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

10-11 psi on an FMU and a walboro intank is going to kill your motor fast, @ 10 psi you're going to add an ADDITIONAL 120 psi of fuel pressure to your stock fuel pressure - your walboro won't be able to keep up, hell my inLINE pump wouldn't be able to do that.</TD></TR></TABLE>


thats no true... as long as your FMU disc is at a 12:1 ratio the air/fuel pressure will not be worked as hard by the pump.. it would be more the fmu.. and theres no problems there... the walbro is a 255.. more than enough for dragging.. 10-11-12 psi will only being going on my car down the quarter mile on race gas.. where it gives my car time to cool off after each run... i will not be running that kinda boost daily until i upgrade some stuff.. but im wondering why u think i'll be upping my STOCK fuel pressure by 120 psi??? everything is evened out when u have more air... more air.. means more fuel.. hence the fmu and pump upgrade..!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4genaccordfreak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


thats no true... as long as your FMU disc is at a 12:1 ratio the air/fuel pressure will not be worked as hard by the pump.. it would be more the fmu.. and theres no problems there... the walbro is a 255.. more than enough for dragging.. 10-11-12 psi will only being going on my car down the quarter mile on race gas.. where it gives my car time to cool off after each run... i will not be running that kinda boost daily until i upgrade some stuff.. but im wondering why u think i'll be upping my STOCK fuel pressure by 120 psi??? everything is evened out when u have more air... more air.. means more fuel.. hence the fmu and pump upgrade..!</TD></TR></TABLE>

cause an fmu is nothing more than a rising rate fuel pressure regulator (adds fuel pressure per psi of boost). and with a 12:1 disc your adding 12 psi of fuel pressure per: 1 psi of boost pressure. so @10 psi you would be adding 120 psi fuel pressure on top of the base pressure.



and just a note most pumps are not rated for fuel pressure # over 150 (some not that high even)... max pressure was stamp at 125 on my old inline 255hp msd. this will not kill fuel components immediately but it does and wil lead to damage soon enough.