I do not understand what my problem is, clutchnet clutch, first one lasted 350 miles, this one about 1,500. They replaced the first one with new disc and pres. plate. Both did the same thing, the rivets holding the friction surface to the tabs broke, all but one holding together each time. This time one of the tabs actually broke. Everything was torqued properly, first one broke not being driven really that hard this one I have been kind of rough on. Please give advise, and suggestions for new clutch.

Closeup


My baby trannyless

 

What exactly is your setup? How much HP are you making? Hows the flywheel?

 

dont u have to break in new clutches? something like 500 miles of city driving before u can really go hard on it. iono if that has anything to do with ur problem.

 

Putting down somewhere around 205whp, plus 75shot, aasco aluminum flywheel, that looks perfect, this time there was a chunk out of one of the pucks on the pp side. The first clutch that lasted 350miles, was not really driven too hard, never at the track, so I would say it was ok broke in, but I gave this one hell, and it lasted a lot longer. Makes no sense to me, what should I put back in it. Yes, all the bolts were still tight and in place, But it make a horrid knocking noise when the clutch is pushed in an it idles down low, I am editing post because I can only post 5 in 24hrs so give me a bump

 

Has anyone else had this problem? Are the bolts all on there perfectly fine?

 

bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChkN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont u have to break in new clutches? something like 500 miles of city driving before u can really go hard on it. iono if that has anything to do with ur problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>If i'm not mistaken...a puck u don't have to break in but a sprung clutch you do.

 

ttt

 

you don't have to brake in any clutch. its just a big myth.

i think your problem is that the clutchs you buy suck. get a different type of clutch.

if you go into the TECH forum the sponsor has exedy clutchs for 20% off you should check that **** out


Modified by slammed_93_hatch at 6:11 PM 2/28/2004

 

ACT, for 200 whp plus a 75 shot, a XTSS should suit you well. Its going to be pricyer then those crap *** crap clutchnet ones, but it should do the job...

 

my friend had the same problem with clutch from murrays on his 94 eclipse non-turbo, just a cheap clutch

 

Yes, I believe the clutchnet are crappy ***, but before I bought it, I searched on here, and couldn't really find anyone who had any trouble, so I gave them a try, paid 325 which is not really cheap. I am planning, to run a 125-150shot, 75 is just what I have in it now, would the xtss still be a good choice, It will be at the track on slicks at least twice a month. Thanks, for all the help. btw who has act's cheapest?

 

150 shot....wow, goodluck with that, lol

your going to need something beefer then a organic disk

I wouldnt suggest ACT then, all of the puck disks are unsprung. You need a 4 or 6 puck sprung hub with a beefy Pressure plate. Clutchmasters sells the fx400, its a sprung hub, 4 puck. Its going to be rough, but if you want to run 150 shot...which is crazy, thats what you going to need.

 

Get a Spec stage 3 clutch and call it a day....

 

The motor is built to hold the nitrous, sleeved, forged, and fixing to be tuned.

 

Modified by warwagon at 8:11 AM 2/29/2004

 

I guess no one has ever had this problem?

 

xact stage 3 clutch with extreme pressure plate will do it....i have it in my 93 cx with a d16z6 swapp and i drove just ova about 3k and it grab REAL well.........my bro has it too in his crx and were having NO problem..

 

read this: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=215379

 

Well, bought an act 6puck with xt pressure plate, and act prolite flywheel, if something messes up this time I must have a problem elsewere.

 

not breaking the clutch in wouldn't cause this.