Dyno results b20 stock block, LS head with 404 crower cams and Valvetrain,Skunk manifold,65mm throtle body,Head shaved .30,DC sports 4to1 header,apexi exuast,Short Intake, Cam gears, weather was 53 degrees and the results were 165 hp TQ 136 made power throught the power band till 8000rpm. What do u guys think? I know compression is killing me.

 

not bad........with some head porting and more compression + fuel and cam tuning you should make some real impressive numbers.

 

Get the higher compression, thats all I can tell you. Those cams love high compression (11:1+). Also, the DC header will hold you back a little. With mods this intense, a better header will do wonders. With high compression (or stock, for that matter) on there cams, nothing less than a Hondata is recommended.

 

THANKS Head is ported and cam gears are ajusted. I think b20 low compression on these 404 cams are to low?

 

which B20 bottom end do you have? the B20B or B20Z?

 

b20B. what u have in mind?

 

man i am really beginning to doubt my power output abilities
i will be running a good p&p crower 404's and i will be running about 11.7-12:1 compression. i will aslo be running a good header and a custom sheet intake and a port matched bored out tb and mani's


sorry to steal your thread man
i am just getting doubts about my build
i want to hit like 180-190 and i think it may hard to get these numbers

 

Funny u said that the reason i started this thread becouse im almost done with my setup and im traying to compare my setup with my friends.

My setup i have b18b with UStype R pistons.JDM header,b20 head stage 4 crane cams and valvetrain,skunk manifold, type r tranny,65 throttle body,Head been milled .20 ported and polished, 5 angle valve job,ferra stock size exuast valves. And im hopin when i dyno 180HP all motor.

I think its the compression what will make the more HP? I dont know i guess ill find out when i dyno mine. MY SETUP http://www.teamultraspeed.com/gallery/album53

 

btw you are only running 9.3:1 compression WITH the milled head and a 3 layer head gasket.

you should upgrade to b20z pistons if you are concerned about cost. with b20z pistons and your milled head you will be at about 10.3:1 compression

that is a big difference n compression

also you can look into doing a 2-layer head gasket but then you will have even more problems with timing advanve

http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...c.php this is a good place to go for compression calculations

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dirtyd463 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">man i am really beginning to doubt my power output abilities
i will be running a good p&p crower 404's and i will be running about 11.7-12:1 compression. i will aslo be running a good header and a custom sheet intake and a port matched bored out tb and mani's


sorry to steal your thread man
i am just getting doubts about my build
i want to hit like 180-190 and i think it may hard to get these numbers</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hitting 190WHP on a street-able LS is no small feat. If I were you, I would try and hit 180, but I would go for as much torque as possible. I don't believe you will run into any problems attaining that goal. The main thing holding the thread starter back is his compression, or lack thereof. With the compression you will be running, the engine may even be undercammed, which slightly blunts the top end power, but gives great low/mid range. The DC sports header is great for mild bolt on engines, but once you get into bigger cams, you really need something that flows better. I bet the starter of this thread could gain an honest 10-15 horse with tuning alone, too.

 

well i will have my engine built to withstand at least 8000-8500rpm so i can adjust the cam timing appropriately. i really want to go for a really torqy motor because torque is fun, and that is the whole purpose of em building the engine, FUN.
i just want to do it because i was told i couldn't. i have a good tuner and all of hte recources to build a good engine. i might get oversize valves, but i dont know yet because i do not know if they will be good for my setup.

here is my list of components
pr3 pistons
stock rods
arp thruout
.030" mill
multiangle bvalve job
very good p&p
good flowing header (havn't decided yet)
flat faced valves
crower 404's
and double spring valve springs
also i will be running a custom made intake manifold
and a larger TB and all of the "flowing" components will be port matched

 

im running tha crower 404s and my head is also gonna get a stage 3 port and polish with crower valve springs and retainers on my stock block and was wondering if I can just reuse my stock valves or do i have to get the SS valves to handle the power? and were can i get sum for a really good price....like less then $200?

 

i have almost this same set up in the works... except b20z block (84.25mm), greddy 4-2-1 exuast and a a 64 mm tb (matched to the skunk manifold... with the upped compression i have i would really like to see the same numnbers as you.

 

you will probably see a bit more than he made due to the higher compression

man this is an oldie, I was posting in this when i really didn't know what I wanted to do for a setup....oh wait I still dont

 

yeah i went to the archives to revive this one.

bored, honed, balanced, blueprinted, shot peened, millled, and port matched.... im ready!!!!

 

Good thread! Hopefully I'll have some comparable numbers from my all motor LS setup:

b18a block
USDM ITR pistons, 0.25 o/s
LS rods
ARP head, rod bolts
p&p LS head, etc
colt cams (similar to 404s)
Fidanza cam gears
b16 inners, LS outer valve springs
LS valves, retainers
929 ITBs (testing!)
Hondata S100

Hoping for 160-70 hp, we'll see .. not too sure what to expect, I just want a good reliable daily driver with some go . Good luck with your builds guys, post results as you get them!

 

b16 inners wit ls outers&gt;?!? that is a tight fit i was going to do the same but they are jus tooo close. so i went with crower duel valve springs.... hope you dont get bindage! go non vtec power

 

I don't see 190 a hard feet.

I hit 165whp on 404s in a B18B with crappy bolt-ons, and only slight milling. Using a B18A head no less (which has smaller intake ports).

Now with my 9.6:1 B20 and stock cams, just bolt ons I hit 155whp with tuning. With cams, headwork, a worthwhile im/tb/header I should be close if not at 190.

 

thats good, i have a b20b in my teg, and i was going 2 put in 404's, but my cr suks. Iv been trying 2 figure out how much my cr would go up if i milled .003 off, sense thats the safest u can go b 4 u have 2 start claying the motor. I dont feel like touching the bottom end sense this is my daily driver so i was trying 2 get as much out of the head 2 b able 2 run the 404s wit no problem of a rough idle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ultra efro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dyno results b20 stock block, LS head with 404 crower cams and Valvetrain,Skunk manifold,65mm throtle body,Head shaved .30,DC sports 4to1 header,apexi exuast,Short Intake, Cam gears, weather was 53 degrees and the results were 165 hp TQ 136 made power throught the power band till 8000rpm. What do u guys think? I know compression is killing me. </TD></TR></TABLE>

This may seem like somewhat of an odd question. But how is gas mileage? I was considering cams for my non-VTEC B20Z. But that car is kind of a work car. And I would hate to do something that will absolutely kill gas mileage. Also, what are you doing for engine management?

 

my gas milage with 403's sucks big ballz. but this is probably due to the fact that i beat on the car everytime i take it out. i had 3/4 tank of gas yesturday and im almost on empty after only about 100 miles of driving. (i did get on the car pretty good. got two runs start n from first reving to redline all through 4 gears hitting 120 mph on back streets not in public. lol i was bored) then had a spirited run on the highway on my way to dinner with friends. cams will do that to u.

but if i drive normally i can probably get good gas mileage. havent driven the car normally since i got cams. speeds addicting. im beat n on my car like this cuz i dont care if i burn up the pistons/rings cuz im gonna rebuild the bottom end soon.

tuning is the key to good gas mileage. my car is in serious need of tuning... after the pistons go in i will have it dyno tuned. hope n for 165whp on my LS