I am set to do it but this is the first time I done it. I have all the tools ready but when looking at the team-integra valve adjustment instructions, my only question is where do I slide the feeler guage? I have a idea from the picture but I'm not too sure......

 

once you pop your valve cover off it'll be much more obvious....

i dunno how to explain it but i'll look for some better pics in a second...

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=738255

good link

 

what does this valva adjustment do

 

if your valves aren't lashed/adjusted right then you hear a loud clicking from the top of the engine....

routine maintenance

 

o i c so hes jus aligning them better?

 

So this is where I slide it in right?

intake side:


exhaust side:

 

yes

 

not to thread jack or anything but how can you tell if it's loose or not when you stick the feeler gauge between.

 

i actually insert the feeler gauge on the other side of the cam shaft -- i found that i was tempted to pull "up" on the gauge when doing it in the manner depicted. it kind of mislead me into thinking the valves were tighter than they actually were.

just my opinion.

 

if you arent sure, just stick the next bigger size. it shouldnt fit at all.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hmongboyLS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not to thread jack or anything but how can you tell if it's loose or not when you stick the feeler gauge between.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

cool, this is my first time doing this and just wanted to make sure. I done tune-ups, brakes, and stuff but never this but thanks for the help. I'm going to give it a shot.

 

I'm taking mine to a shop... $150 for the adjustment

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRGuy17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm taking mine to a shop... $150 for the adjustment</TD></TR></TABLE>

Rape.

You probably have the tools. Grab a helms and go to work. An hour max.

 

$150 for a valve adjstment if you pay that you are outta ure mind, it took me about 45 minutes to do mine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by delinquent &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i actually insert the feeler gauge on the other side of the cam shaft -- i found that i was tempted to pull "up" on the gauge when doing it in the manner depicted. it kind of mislead me into thinking the valves were tighter than they actually were.

just my opinion.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I hope you're not sticking the feeler guage between the valve spring retainer and the adjusting nut, because that will give the completely wrong reading. The thread linked above also talks about putting the feeler guage between the adjusting nut and valve spring retainer. If you have a DOHC VTEC engine, DO NOT USE THIS METHOD!!! You MUST stick the feeler guage between the cam lobe and rocker arm pad.

Also it's best to bend the ends of the blades that you use for the adjustment (I have about 3-4 blades w/ bent ends on my feeler guage set). If you use straight blades it's very easy to stick the blades in there at an angle, which will also give you incorrect readings (you will think it's tighter than it actually is, and the valves will be too loose, which will cause LOTS of noise). HTH

 

keep in mind it is better to adjust the valves loose (like one gauge up no more) than to have them too tight...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Redtail &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">keep in mind it is better to adjust the valves loose (like one gauge up no more) than to have them too tight... </TD></TR></TABLE>

YA right, maybe you would do this if you didnt know what the hell you were doing. Make them tighter on the intake side. and at the low side of the spec on the exhaust. Tighter clearances = more lift. good specs are .007 on the exhaust and .006 on the intake. Or set them to spec. but never set them loose thats no cool.

 

check out the link in my sig.... i have a diy section where i have lots of pics.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deepgreengsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

YA right, maybe you would do this if you didnt know what the hell you were doing. Make them tighter on the intake side. and at the low side of the spec on the exhaust. Tighter clearances = more lift. good specs are .007 on the exhaust and .006 on the intake. Or set them to spec. but never set them loose thats no cool.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep when I do my adjustment I use the .006, .007, and .008 blades. I adjust intake to .006 and make sure the .007 blade won't fit, then I adjust the exhaust so the .007 blade fits and the .008 does not.

 

that be the way i do it too, y0!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yep when I do my adjustment I use the .006, .007, and .008 blades. I adjust intake to .006 and make sure the .007 blade won't fit, then I adjust the exhaust so the .007 blade fits and the .008 does not. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

its soooo much easier on an LS

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yep when I do my adjustment I use the .006, .007, and .008 blades. I adjust intake to .006 and make sure the .007 blade won't fit, then I adjust the exhaust so the .007 blade fits and the .008 does not. </TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly how i do it

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its soooo much easier on an LS</TD></TR></TABLE>

and yes, yes it is... hahaha...

 

alright im reading through here and going to the links provided and am getting confused the one way says to do it when the engine is cold and the the other way says to do it when the engine is warm because it will give you a true reading can someone tell me which is the right way?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR.#1446 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alright im reading through here and going to the links provided and am getting confused the one way says to do it when the engine is cold and the the other way says to do it when the engine is warm because it will give you a true reading can someone tell me which is the right way?</TD></TR></TABLE>

COLD. Always COLD. (as per Acura and Helms)