Yeah i just got the h23 manual tensioner conversion for my timing belt, and i have everything ready except i cant get the crank pulley off. What is your experiences with this, and whats the easiest way.
INPUT please.

thanks

 

Get yourself some leverage and hold on for dear life

 

do u have the bolt off ?

 

Get a pulley holder.

 

welcome to hell, your going to develop a love hate relationship with you crank pulley and bolt , trust me

but yeah you will need a honda pully holder, that thing is on there at either 176 or 181 foots pounts i forget which. its very tight and hard to get off, and air guns don't work either, atleast they didn't for me, and i had a BIG gun

 

you don't need any of that...... just get a large impact gun..... thats all i did

 

Again someone bringing up an impact gun that costs hundreds of dollars on top of an air compressor as opposed to a pulley holder whichs cost about 30 bucks plus a couple of breaker bars.

 

Well, for the crank pulley bolt, I had to buy an air compressor and impact gun; it was the only way I could get it off, and I had been putting off buying a compressor for a looooong time.

For the pulley, I took a crowbar and started tapping the bar all around the pulley and it finally came off. As for the smaller timing gear on the inside........good luck

 

I took mine off this past weekend. All i used was a Craftsman 1/2" Ratchet with a 3' Steel pipe as a breaker bar. Came off easy as hell. Took a little bit of muscle but it can be done. You do need the tool to hold the crankpully from rotating.

 

put your breaker bar on the bolt, wedge it against the ground, then bump the starter. Works almost every time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yellow_jacket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put your breaker bar on the bolt, wedge it against the ground, then bump the starter. Works almost every time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Almost? What happens the rest of the times it doesnt work?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yellow_jacket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put your breaker bar on the bolt, wedge it against the ground, then bump the starter. Works almost every time.</TD></TR></TABLE>Just remember to keep in mind which way it spins.

 

HAHA, yeah, i bet that if you put it ont wrong you would be pissed!!

Alright, well being the perfectionist i am, i would be interested in buying the tool Honda uses that fits on the inside of the pulley and stops the crank from moving that way. I have a compressor and a impact gun, but its on there pretty good and the crank keep turning.

And for all of yo that posted, just hold the crank and give it muscle, i was pretty much asking HOW to hold it , but i guess i wasnt that clear so its not your fault.

About htis Honda tool, i can buy it from a Honda dealership?

 

Dont buy the tool at the dealership. They will want $160 for both the head and the bar. Buy it from Hondaautomotiveparts.com. Same exact tool, only it will cost you about $100 instead. Its expensive but well worth it.

 

i couldnt find the tool, hook me up with a link.

 

i took a crank out this weekend. i had my engine on a stand. i just jammed the flywheel, took a 1/2in. breaker bar and a piece of pipe, gave it a nice whack, off it came!! took all of a minute!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by biglew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Again someone bringing up an impact gun that costs hundreds of dollars on top of an air compressor as opposed to a pulley holder whichs cost about 30 bucks plus a couple of breaker bars.</TD></TR></TABLE>

A good mechanic uses the right tool for the job....... or at least has a friend with the right tools

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by biglew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Again someone bringing up an impact gun that costs hundreds of dollars on top of an air compressor as opposed to a pulley holder whichs cost about 30 bucks plus a couple of breaker bars.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm, wanna sit there and manually wrench a bolt out or use an air ratchet?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeHatchH22a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i couldnt find the tool, hook me up with a link.</TD></TR></TABLE>

They dont have the tool on their website, i remmember now i got mine from slhondaparts.com. But what i did was call and gave them the item number. Its 2 separate numbers, one for the head and the other for the bar extension. I dont have the item number right now but when i get home from work ill post it if u still need it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoolinlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

A good mechanic uses the right tool for the job....... or at least has a friend with the right tools </TD></TR></TABLE>

True, but if you actually think you HAVE to have the Honda tool to do this simple job, then I would question your ingenuity....it's EASY!

 

i bought a knockoff of the honda tool on ebay for $30 shipped/.

 

Two methods with the engine in the car (no fancy/expensive tools):

Put it in 4th or 5th gear, wedge a 2x4 between the seat and the brake pedal (or have a friend step on the brake for you), loosen bolt. It will be springy because you are applying torque through the entire drive line, but the tranny can handle a few hundred ft-lbs no problem. Good test if you need a new clutch too.

Put #1 cyl about halfway up on compression (rod journal at 90 deg), fill with oil, install sparkplug, loosen bolt. Can be messy but works like a charm. Make sure the crank is at about 90 deg BTDC so the rod has the maxium leverage on the crank.

If you try and wedge something against the flywheel through the timing inspection port you run the risk of damaging the teeth on the ring gear, or dropping something (or a broken piece of something) inside the bell housing.

Oh, and :

"put your breaker bar on the bolt, wedge it against the ground, then bump the starter. Works almost every time."

is a redneck way to tighten the bolt, not loosen it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by del_parker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hmm, wanna sit there and manually wrench a bolt out or use an air ratchet?

</TD></TR></TABLE>To this day I have removed the crank pulley bolt 3 times, twice while the engine was in the car and once when it was out. All 3 times I used no impact gun and did it myself with no issues.

 

I wonder if this is the tool...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...48329

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kxkal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wonder if this is the tool...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...48329

</TD></TR></TABLE>

That one will only fit with the engine out of the car or you lower the engine. The part that slides into the pully is to wide and will not clear the frame of the car. I use to have that one and bought the Honda version because it will fit with the engine in the car and you dont have to lower the engine. It only costs a few bucks more too.

Here is the part number for the pully holder from honda:

Holder : 07AB-001020A
Holder Attachtment : 07NAB-001040A

One of the all time greatest tools ive ever purchased.