I have some questions before I snap pics and install these suckers. The instructions are in Japanese and I can only read some of it. Not enough to make out anything useful. Anyone know a place where I can get step-by-step instructions for installing coilovers on an R using the stock shock caps??

I also need to know how do I make sure I have set them level? There are no markings or anything and I want to be precise. I know I could measure from the floor to the four jackstand points under the car, but there has to be a more accurate way.

Secondly from looking at the construction of these. The lower you go, the more the threads at the top of the coilover are going to stick out of the shock towers, correct?

And do I follow all of the Helms torque settings for these coilovers? I know the torque setting depends on the material you are torquing down, so shouldn't the specs be different?

And lastly do I just ziptie the brake lines to the coilover because there is no mount like the stock dampers.

Thanks in Advance

Yeah Yeah I know......these coilovers aren't that great.....blah...blah...but for what I'm going to use them for, they are perfect. This is going to be my street setup. I figure there is no reason to waste away the lifespan of a high end setup on the street, so these are perfect. Cheap.....600 dollars brand new cheap. So these will give me the mugen lowdown height that I like with a stock ride, which is what I was looking for.

I'll save the big bucks suspension lifespan for autocross/roadcourse. I know a lot of people run their high end setup on the street, but it really isn't practical. These are wear items, and there's really no good reason to fugg up a 1500 dollar setup on the street. Especially with the shitty roads we have here.

So I'll post pics tonight.

 

Congrats...

Im one of those who runs their track setup on the streets like many other people, been going 3 years strong now, still no problems, however im ready to get some stiffer spring rates.

 

You mean the dust caps right? On my set up I had to cut them in half to accomodate the shorter ride height.. you may or may not depending on how much lowering you do.

on my GC setup.. I measure (w/a tape measure, calipers etc.) from the bottom of the perch to the bottom of the threaded body. Basically you can find 2 distinguishing marks that both L and R side have in common. (make sure the distance changes w/adjustment). So, you set the RF and LF the same, the RR and LR the same.

here is a pic so my banter makes a lil more sense.


Also check the ride height when you are done.

Im not familiar w/the WS setup, but on my koni's there is a smaller diameter threaded part that sticks out, and the adjustment ****(for dampening) comes out of that. When you mount em up it should make more sense.

here is a pic of there rears w/my konis


Thats a good idea, in theory hopefully the WS are more durable, so torquing to OE specs should be fine

zipties work fine for me.. you may be able to retain the stock brake line mounts, but I doubt it w/a full coilover setup.

nothing wrong w/being reasonable g'luck


Modified by DsR at 5:55 PM 2/19/2004


Modified by DsR at 5:56 PM 2/19/2004


Modified by DsR at 5:57 PM 2/19/2004


Modified by DsR at 6:04 PM 2/19/2004

 

Yeah I understand the first pic. But to go lower, higher.....you have to wind down the locking rings, but how does that shorten the height of the coilover damper? The spring goes lower, but where does the extra length go to shorten/ raise the car? That's why I thought more threads would stick out of the top if you go lower, but that seemed kind of odd.

Sorry for the dumb questions

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmspoonitr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah I understand the first pic. But to go lower, higher.....you have to wind down the locking rings, but how does that shorten the height of the coilover damper? The spring goes lower, but where does the extra length go to shorten/ raise the car? That's why I thought more threads would stick out of the top if you go lower, but that seemed kind of odd.

Sorry for the dumb questions </TD></TR></TABLE>

No such thing as a dumb ?.

The position of the spring determines your overall ride height, and the spring sits on the perch.. Therefore lowering the perch lowers the position of your spring, which lowers your car.

...the arm bones connected to the..

In the pic shown above, the threaded part we are reffering to is attached to the top of the damper (the shaft) It doesn't change position in relation to the spring, it stays mounted to the bottom of the wheel well.

The damper will adjust to accomodate the spring (it may not be stroke adjustable so lowering to far can result in bottoming out.) it is there to keep the spring from oscillating for extended periods of time so you don't look like a 'lowriding stunna who ch0p'd his springs..

 

What are the spring rates? At $600 you got one helluva deal
Where did you get them from?

 

sweet dude

when you doing the install

i will help you out in exchange if i can take lots of pics... hehe

 

Glad to hear you received them
We're down to the last one!

 

yeah see I still don't understand though...... on me

I understand that lowering the perch and then the spring, but how does that effect the total length of the coilover? I see how the spring and perches go up and down, but that doesn't seem like it will effect shock length. So how does it lower the car if the length never changes?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmspoonitr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah see I still don't understand though...... on me

I understand that lowering the perch and then the spring, but how does that effect the total length of the coilover? I see how the spring and perches go up and down, but that doesn't seem like it will effect shock length. So how does it lower the car if the length never changes?</TD></TR></TABLE>

basically, the shock *does* change.. the spring is the main body supporting your car.

when you lower your car the piston goes farther into the shock body, that is why many lowered cars will bottom out and blow shocks earleir.

That's also why some of us pay big $$$ for either an setup w/adjustable stroke, or shorten our current dampers if possible.

 

Ahhhhh now I get it.....thanks!!

So adjustable stroke would allow me to change the actual shock height?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmspoonitr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ahhhhh now I get it.....thanks!!

So adjustable stroke would allow me to change the actual shock height?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes... that's a big part of why the Zeal setups (s6/b6) are so pricey. IMO It's not really neccessary unless you are really lowering your car..and it's only adjustable to an extent.

Semi OT, but I just saw the other thread.


g'luck w/that scammer ish I may have some *gonnections* in LA, IM me for details..

Post some pics of the R when the suspension is on

 

Pics of Bling coilovers!!

And whats that in the background?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmspoonitr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pics of Bling coilovers!!

And whats that in the background?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

carbon fiber lip? nice!

 

I enjoyed my WS coils. they were a little soft but they were a great street set up.