Brake bleeding process question
I am getting coflicting instructions from two seperate repair manuals concerning the order of bleeding.
Haynes manual says to bleed in this order:
1- Left front
2- Right front
3- Right rear
4- Left rear
Another manual says to begin from the wheel farthest from the master cylinder in this order:
1- Right rear
2- Left rear
3- Right front
4- Left front
WHO IS CORRECT?
Haynes manual says to bleed in this order:
1- Left front
2- Right front
3- Right rear
4- Left rear
Another manual says to begin from the wheel farthest from the master cylinder in this order:
1- Right rear
2- Left rear
3- Right front
4- Left front
WHO IS CORRECT?
no-one, chilton sucks!
it really doesnt matter which side goes first, its like asking which tire should i put on.
ultimately, it really doesnt matter what tire goes on first as long as theyre on, hence, it really doesnt matter as long as there are NO AIR in the lines!
it really doesnt matter which side goes first, its like asking which tire should i put on.
ultimately, it really doesnt matter what tire goes on first as long as theyre on, hence, it really doesnt matter as long as there are NO AIR in the lines!
You got a '98 Accord, right? ABS? (I don't know if ABS was standard across the line...)
My Helm book says the same as your Haynes; LF - RF - RR - LF. Bleeding order comes from which circuit is likely to push bubbles into which other circuit. Any more, different cars have different plumbing arrangements with ABS.
Before ABS you could pretty much use RR - LF - LR - RF for any car. I think if you use the wrong order the only problem is you might have to go around more than once to get all the air out.
My Helm book says the same as your Haynes; LF - RF - RR - LF. Bleeding order comes from which circuit is likely to push bubbles into which other circuit. Any more, different cars have different plumbing arrangements with ABS.
Before ABS you could pretty much use RR - LF - LR - RF for any car. I think if you use the wrong order the only problem is you might have to go around more than once to get all the air out.
Hi Jim,
What's up bud. I don't have ABS. I bled my brakes yesterday and followed the HAYNES manual of front left, front right, rear right, rear left. Car brakes good. Why can't ALL manuals be the same?
By the way I fixed my vibration at idle problem. I changed the front and rear motor mount. All vibration is gone at idle. I chased this problem for 6 months. What puzzles me is why the vibration came after my timing belt, etc. was done. Why do I have to even change these mounts with only 116k??????? Motor mounts and automatic transmission problems is definitely a WEAK point of HONDA and NOT with TOYOTA.
Your friend,
Anthony.
What's up bud. I don't have ABS. I bled my brakes yesterday and followed the HAYNES manual of front left, front right, rear right, rear left. Car brakes good. Why can't ALL manuals be the same?
By the way I fixed my vibration at idle problem. I changed the front and rear motor mount. All vibration is gone at idle. I chased this problem for 6 months. What puzzles me is why the vibration came after my timing belt, etc. was done. Why do I have to even change these mounts with only 116k??????? Motor mounts and automatic transmission problems is definitely a WEAK point of HONDA and NOT with TOYOTA.
Your friend,
Anthony.
My two manuals also had conflicting bleeding orders. Whenever I do brake flushes at work I always do RR-LR-RF-LF, which is starting farthest away from the master cylinder and working closer. Never had a problem doing it that way on any vehicle
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Elvis1977 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... I changed the front and rear motor mount. All vibration is gone at idle...</TD></TR></TABLE>Good deal! I was wondering if you were ever gonna get that.
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bdavis
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Aug 23, 2010 05:41 PM



