just got done with swap.......have a few questions about cel's.......
like the title says, we just got done with a swap and we are having a few problems.
the car.........
1997 honda civic dx
b20vtec
the car was wired for vtec, wires extended and changed over the iacv.
now here is the problem. the car starts and somewhat idles around 1500, we tried to take it for a test drive and every time we'd just slightly tap the throttle the car would just drop down to below 500 hesitate and die.
we checked codes and we are throwing 4 of them
code 5=map sensor
code 10=iat sensor
code 14=iacv
code 43=fuel system supply
we've allready replaced the igniter in the distributor, the fuel filter, timing is fine, we tried replacing the o2 sensor, but the other one is bad too. and we popped off the injector clip on the no. 1 cylinder and there was some residue in it.
anydbody have an idea on what to check next and what could be causing all of these problems?
the car.........
1997 honda civic dx
b20vtec
the car was wired for vtec, wires extended and changed over the iacv.
now here is the problem. the car starts and somewhat idles around 1500, we tried to take it for a test drive and every time we'd just slightly tap the throttle the car would just drop down to below 500 hesitate and die.
we checked codes and we are throwing 4 of them
code 5=map sensor
code 10=iat sensor
code 14=iacv
code 43=fuel system supply
we've allready replaced the igniter in the distributor, the fuel filter, timing is fine, we tried replacing the o2 sensor, but the other one is bad too. and we popped off the injector clip on the no. 1 cylinder and there was some residue in it.
anydbody have an idea on what to check next and what could be causing all of these problems?
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just had the same problem with an ls install. make sure the IAC and MAP are inthe right places. if you switch them the car will run but it will not idle and will die when given throttle.
No, because the IACV is 2-wire as where the MAP is 3-wire. Those are fine. You might be talking about the MAP sensor and the TPS, but we have it in the right location now. Anyone else?
sorry that was a friend. the iacv was converted to a 2 wire like you are supposed to. we have two harnesses we looked at to make sure they were right while we spliced it. so i know that the iacv and the map sensor are not switched.
i tried checking the voltage at the harness with the car on the on position(i am a newbie at checking voltage so don't flame just give me help)
and here's what i got as results:
MAP=5.1 volts
TPS=5.1 volts
iacv=1.8 volts
i know i had to have done that wrong so some please give me a hint on how to do this correctly as i would like to solve the problem soon.
i tried checking the voltage at the harness with the car on the on position(i am a newbie at checking voltage so don't flame just give me help)
and here's what i got as results:
MAP=5.1 volts
TPS=5.1 volts
iacv=1.8 volts
i know i had to have done that wrong so some please give me a hint on how to do this correctly as i would like to solve the problem soon.
i cant verfy on this..but if your tps is reading 5.1 volt with the throttle closed that means its telling the computer that your throttle is fully open
you might wanna try to unplug the iacv when the engine is idling and see if the rpms drop or raise or whatever...i dont kno..just throwing out ideas
you might wanna try to unplug the iacv when the engine is idling and see if the rpms drop or raise or whatever...i dont kno..just throwing out ideas
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well you see that's the thing. i am not fully sure on how to check the voltage. i'm going to go back and do it again. where is the best place to check it from? at the connector? etc.
also we unplugged the iacv it started to idle higher. any other info i can use?
thanks for your help i appreciate it.
also we unplugged the iacv it started to idle higher. any other info i can use?
thanks for your help i appreciate it.
you need to verify that the wires for each of the plugs you touched, has the wires in the right pin locations. It sounds to me like you have wires mixed up. Check for continuity between the sensor and the ecu.
As far as I can see, all the wires are right on the car. I spliced the IACV plug from 3-wire-2-wire exactly like Katmans Diagrams. The MAP, and the TPS we had to extend.
As far as the CEL 43, is boggling me. Changed the Fuel filter...etc. etc. like he said above.
But any help could be great Thanx.
As far as the CEL 43, is boggling me. Changed the Fuel filter...etc. etc. like he said above.
But any help could be great Thanx.
Bump. Please Help us out here. The only conclusion I personally can think of is, something to do with wiring. Maybe our friend that did the wiring, did one too many solderings. So please help us. Thanx. and once again... BUMP!
I'm thinking your TPS and MAP may just be the problem. Closed throtle should be .45V for TPS. MAP should be about the same I think, but I'm not 100% sure on that one since I never had to check.
So looking back at some Hondata Recordings of mine....
Full throttle TPS voltage was 4.47V @ 101% Throttle
Full throttle MAP voltage was 2.85V @ 1002mb
Take this for what it's worth, but you may just have the wiring mixed up since both your MAP and TPS show a higher than normal Voltage.
What ECU are you running?
So looking back at some Hondata Recordings of mine....
Full throttle TPS voltage was 4.47V @ 101% Throttle
Full throttle MAP voltage was 2.85V @ 1002mb
Take this for what it's worth, but you may just have the wiring mixed up since both your MAP and TPS show a higher than normal Voltage.
What ECU are you running?
like i've said before. don't take those readings as accurate, i don't know the correct procedure for reading the voltage. we just went out and winged it on this one try ing to see if we got it right. which we obviously didn't.
Ok... TPS voltage.
I doubt you can have the TPS sensor adjusted to read the reading you have above. You are probably using the power wire instead of the signal wire.
You only have the three wires at the TPS, ground, signal and power. So try the different combinations untill you have a reading of somewhere between .20 and 1.00. When your reading is in that range, you have found the signal and the ground. Rotate the TPS untill you read .45 on you voltmeter which the ECU will then reference as 0% throttle. Make sure your key/ignition is in the on position when you do this.
If for some reason you can't get a voltage reading in the range mentioned above, I guess you could've crossed your power and your signal when soldering.
I don't believe the MAP can be adjusted, and I'm not sure about voltage reading on that one.
There are a multitude of things which could cause what you are describing, I would suggest checking all your wiring again.
I doubt you can have the TPS sensor adjusted to read the reading you have above. You are probably using the power wire instead of the signal wire.
You only have the three wires at the TPS, ground, signal and power. So try the different combinations untill you have a reading of somewhere between .20 and 1.00. When your reading is in that range, you have found the signal and the ground. Rotate the TPS untill you read .45 on you voltmeter which the ECU will then reference as 0% throttle. Make sure your key/ignition is in the on position when you do this.
If for some reason you can't get a voltage reading in the range mentioned above, I guess you could've crossed your power and your signal when soldering.
I don't believe the MAP can be adjusted, and I'm not sure about voltage reading on that one.
There are a multitude of things which could cause what you are describing, I would suggest checking all your wiring again.
Ok, this is the process we did. We removed the TPS harness clip, and began to start poking around with the voltameter, and got 1 actual reading, and that was when the car was in the ON postion. the other readings, made the needle on the meter go backwards, or got nothing at all.
I don't quite remember exactly what that reading was, but I do know that we got a reading that was not right.
I don't quite remember exactly what that reading was, but I do know that we got a reading that was not right.
okay fixed the harness and cel problems for the most part. and now we are having a few smaller problems.
1. the speedometer isn't working
2. the car idles very rough which really isn't the problem. but when we are driving it for a little while we'll give it gas and it starts to sputter and won't accerate.
kinda confused on those two. any help would be appreciated.
1. the speedometer isn't working
2. the car idles very rough which really isn't the problem. but when we are driving it for a little while we'll give it gas and it starts to sputter and won't accerate.
kinda confused on those two. any help would be appreciated.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by see_our_vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2. the car idles very rough which really isn't the problem. but when we are driving it for a little while we'll give it gas and it starts to sputter and won't accerate.
kinda confused on those two. any help would be appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>
same thing happened with my swap tonight. I need to know. I am throwign tps, knock and vtec as codes. and i think my cap and rotor are shitty.
kinda confused on those two. any help would be appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>
same thing happened with my swap tonight. I need to know. I am throwign tps, knock and vtec as codes. and i think my cap and rotor are shitty.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by streetlvlhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
same thing happened with my swap tonight. I need to know. I am throwign tps, knock and vtec as codes. and i think my cap and rotor are shitty.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What ECU are you running with what motor?
same thing happened with my swap tonight. I need to know. I am throwign tps, knock and vtec as codes. and i think my cap and rotor are shitty.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What ECU are you running with what motor?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by see_our_vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay fixed the harness and cel problems for the most part. and now we are having a few smaller problems.
2. the car idles very rough which really isn't the problem. but when we are driving it for a little while we'll give it gas and it starts to sputter and won't accerate.
kinda confused on those two. any help would be appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Have you checked your mixture yet? If you run to rich it won'te idle and can sputter.
Checked you spark plug wires? Are you miss firing or you think it's fuel related?
2. the car idles very rough which really isn't the problem. but when we are driving it for a little while we'll give it gas and it starts to sputter and won't accerate.
kinda confused on those two. any help would be appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Have you checked your mixture yet? If you run to rich it won'te idle and can sputter.
Checked you spark plug wires? Are you miss firing or you think it's fuel related?
We checked the spark plugs, not the wires yet. I was actually thinking about that this morning to do. I also need to get a full tank of gas, probably 89oct. I think 91 is a little too much. I even think 89 is a little too much. but I figure that will burn better and quicker then the 91 would.
Im assuming the fuel is getting thru fine, not throwing anymore CEL's... except for one while im driving... and I believe it's VSS, since I have no speedo. haha.
When driving, if I get going it's going pretty good for the most part, but it's not at full potenial, not even half potential..... it run's the same speed as my old d16y7 motor... hahaha and that's not something to be proud of. lol
Any insight would be great. Oh ya!? also I don't know if this would have anything to do with it, but I don't have any grounds yet.... only the ground for the tranny... and VPS, and the thermostat... the little grounds, not the big ones... would that make any difference?
Im assuming the fuel is getting thru fine, not throwing anymore CEL's... except for one while im driving... and I believe it's VSS, since I have no speedo. haha.
When driving, if I get going it's going pretty good for the most part, but it's not at full potenial, not even half potential..... it run's the same speed as my old d16y7 motor... hahaha and that's not something to be proud of. lol
Any insight would be great. Oh ya!? also I don't know if this would have anything to do with it, but I don't have any grounds yet.... only the ground for the tranny... and VPS, and the thermostat... the little grounds, not the big ones... would that make any difference?


