from the factory, ITRs come with a trunk-wall bar. it's "supposed" to stiffen up flex back there...yea. anywho, i figure honda made it a stock for a reason, so maybe i'd fab one up? i found what seemed to be the strongest points on the trunk-wall of the rex and used a bar i found on my basketball court. :X i'm not going to say whether i think it's doing much of anything (because in my head it does), but the back is a bit quieter when going up driveways and taking turns and such...check out the install pics.



it was free to make, took me about 20 minutes to grind/pound/drill the one end that was flat, and looks interesting (since no other rex has one ). what do you guys think?


Modified by phan at 12:45 PM 2/17/2004

 

Some company, I believe lokar is selling rear body bars to eliminate creaking and stress, anyway if it helped eliminates creaks it looks good to me.

 

thats pretty cool man, do you think you can find me another bar on your basketball court?

Take it to an autocross or something...run with it on and off and see if theres a difference in handling. You never know..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JOEY F. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats pretty cool man, do you think you can find me another bar on your basketball court?

Take it to an autocross or something...run with it on and off and see if theres a difference in handling. You never know.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

buhaha, i have 3 other bars on my bball court that i was thinking of converting to something like this but i was thinking of replacing the one pictured with something a bit longer (mount on the points that the rear bumper support bolts into) and a bit larger in diameter.

edit: and i would like to add that the bar is QUITE stiff. after having bolted it onto the trunk-wall, i grabbed it with my hand and try to shake it...the whole *** of the car moved rather than just the bar.

 

Quality
Some guy posted up pics a long time ago here about "strong bars" that he was making for the DA and EF but I guess it never quite worked out. What you made there is basically what he was going to. I think making the bar longer so it reaches the bumper support bolts would work really nice. Another great DIY project from phan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

buhaha, i have 3 other bars on my bball court that i was thinking of converting to something like this but i was thinking of replacing the one pictured with something a bit longer (mount on the points that the rear bumper support bolts into) and a bit larger in diameter.

edit: and i would like to add that the bar is QUITE stiff. after having bolted it onto the trunk-wall, i grabbed it with my hand and try to shake it...the whole *** of the car moved rather than just the bar. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I think making a 2nd bar to the bumper bolts would be cool and probably make it even stiffer!!

 

does anyone know if the dc2-r bar bolts onto the bumper support bolts?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kid-honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Some company, I believe lokar is selling rear body bars to eliminate creaking and stress, anyway if it helped eliminates creaks it looks good to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

**** I hate that sound..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by #jefs0ng &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">**** I hate that sound..</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, those creaking sounds are annoying as hell. well, they were annoying...

 

Umm that brace won't do anything for ridigity because you are only making contact points on the rear hatch. I understand that you said it makes going up drive ways more quieter so i guess it does serve as some purpose. I'm not trying to diss or imply anything on your but I think its kind of funny how all these companies try to make all these braces when half of them don't do a damn thing anyway. Or you could just buy a cage if you save up a little bite more money.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does anyone know if the dc2-r bar bolts onto the bumper support bolts?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have already tried it and its like maybe an inch or less short of reaching. But thats really where you should mount it. Where you have it I dont think it would do a damn thing.

 

I think it does

 

Please explain because I really don't see how it does. If you look at the picture closely you will notice where the contact spots are at. Also you guys really think the rear hatch even flexes or gives at all. But its on the trunk basically so how is that going to add stiffness or ridigity.

 

to clear everything up, i did it because i was curious. i'm sure the points i used aren't optimal and i'm sure the bar i used isn't either...i had an idea and went with it. to my surprise, though, it did quiet the rear down quite a bit. as per goforbroke's comment, i can't say i agree or disagree. i have seen bars out there that seem serve no functional purpose...but i took this concept from honda; the dc2-r comes with a similar (and i use this term loosely because i just bolted mine on arbitrarily) bar STOCK. see where i'm going with this? and this has nothing to do with the rear hatch flexing or giving...

 

if it solves squeaks then it's worth it to me, but not some name brand.
ummm phan at first i was like umm, no that's a rear strut bar

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16_madman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if it solves squeaks then it's worth it to me, but not some name brand.
ummm phan at first i was like umm, no that's a rear strut bar</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, to my surprise a lot of the squeaks were gone! i mean ****, if it does nothing but that i'm still happy. and about it looking stock, i had some ssm from paintscratch.com in a spray can so i sprayed it the same color as my car...pretty stock looking

 

I like it a lot!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I like it a lot! </TD></TR></TABLE>

i pm'd the guy and if i get a good price, we'll go to s.d. on thursday.

 

if your rear end creaks like that, the culprit is your whole chassis twisting. that little bar may fix the rear end sheet metal from creaking a bit, but it wont do a thing for body roll because its not attached to anything of any structural integrity. in my opinion, i belive if you get a more rigid rear strut tower bar, and some lower bars that attach between the suspension, you will eliminate more roll than with that thing. along with front tower bars.

 

again, i didn't do this for suspension purposes! it was on a whim and i ended up getting lucky that it cured some creaking. but can you explain the dc2-r trunk wall bar then? this is based on that exact same concept...

 

i understand that you didnt do it for suspension purposes, but if your rear strut tower bar was much more rigid, you most likely wouldnt have that problem in the first place.

its like having an open wound that needs stiches but you use a bandaid instead. ya those strut tower bars are ok, but they still let the body roll, hence the creaking when you go over curbs/bumps slowly.

no i cant explain the dc2r trunk wall bar. ive never seen one. for all i know, it could be a bar to tie your groceries to. or, it could be a actual rigid bar connected to the chassis instead of screwed into sheet metal.

 

YOU ARE GOING TO COMPRESS UR SPINE! with that harness set up. good luck. hope u live!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GreenMachineRex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">YOU ARE GOING TO COMPRESS UR SPINE! with that harness set up. good luck. hope u live!</TD></TR></TABLE>
How the heck can you tell that by those pictures? In those pictures the harness isn't even strapped to anything. It's merely lying on top of the strut bar.

And I guess yall aren't reading phan's posts..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">again, i didn't do this for suspension purposes! it was on a whim and i ended up getting lucky that it cured some creaking. but can you explain the dc2-r trunk wall bar then? this is based on that exact same concept...</TD></TR></TABLE>
phan,
i guess you ended up keepin the car

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16_madman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How the heck can you tell that by those pictures? In those pictures the harness isn't even strapped to anything. It's merely lying on top of the strut bar.

And I guess yall aren't reading phan's posts..

phan,
i guess you ended up keepin the car</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, i'm not too sure how that's going to compress my spine either...

everyone's a critic, cest la vie.

and yea, i ended up keeping the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c jackson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i understand that you didnt do it for suspension purposes, but if your rear strut tower bar was much more rigid, you most likely wouldnt have that problem in the first place. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I DIDN'T DO IT FOR SUSPENSION PURPOSES. i'm very happy with the way my car handles. i did this because...well, for the same reason i stated 23984723948567 times in my posts above.