I have changed my radiator to a two row, brand new thermostat (oem honda) and on my 2nd rad cap (oem honda), i can not freakin figure this thing out. it really only does it after a few days of driving, my coolant eventually comes out of the radiator and into the overflow, and then overflows that jug, i started out bleeding all the air, ran the car for like 30 min and had it topped off, emptied the jug and like 3 days later it was full, it is pushing coolant out and not sucking it back in, why is it pushing it out anyhow, the car isn't heating up. anyhow, i am driving down the highway today and the car gets hot, so i turn the heater off and push it back to cold, it cools off instantly. I dont know how air is getting into my freakin cooling system, no oil in the coolant no coolant in the oil. Could this all be caused by a bad heater valve???? All suggestions will be tried if they haven't already, i always search before i post as you can see by my posts on here, i have searched h-t for 3 weeks, so don't post to search, if you search and find something, link me, thanks in advance.

 

Very akward.

 

Make sure you have the correct cap on the rad and make sure it is making a good seal onto the neck. Also I have seen this on cars that have not been bled properly, triple check that there is not air trapped in the block or lines.

 

If you already searched like you mentioned, then im sure you ran across some posts saying that coolant overflowing could be a sign of a warped head/bad head gasket. But if your car hasnt overheated to an extreme point, then that doesnt sound like a possibility.

Why did you replace your radiator? Are you 100% you put everything back together? You did bleed the system with the heator on right?

The exact opposite happens to my car. Even if I have the air turned off (w/o the AC being switched on) sliding the temp setting from hot to cold, increases temp about 10-15 degrees. Are you actually pushing the AC on? or just changing temp setting?

Hope you find the problem soon.

 

sometimes if the valve in the heater hose for the core gets bent or comes unhooked, it will cause this...just something to look at.

 

I am sure it is the correct cap and radiator, i changed it b/c the old one had a little corrosion in it. I know everything is installed correctly.

I doubt it could be a head or anything like that wrong, i am doing a compression test tonight. I have a d16y8 and only 5 lbs of boost...

As for bleeding the system, i have done it several times with the heater on...i usually let it run for 30 minutes while filling it back up when air bubles come out.

The car will usually run fine for about 5 or 6 days, last time i babied, never went over 2 lbs of boost or 3k rpm, i know this for a fact b/c it was killing me inside. But after a few days there is a full overflow tank that was empty when i started. It seems like the coolant is getting pushed out and not sucked back in, it is getting air in there somehow.

The heater control valve is fine.

When i rev it up the coolant level rises and overflows, then goes back down as the rpms go down. This is weird to me, i am use to domestics and they do the opposite, when you rev them up the level in the rad goes down.

Dude, i am about ready to sell this car. I never bring my car to meets or pic shoots so i don't have any, but if anyone is interested i can get some up...thanks

 

Coolant levels vary from when the car is cold and hot. Thats why the reserve tank has two markings. If you filled it to the max hot level when the engine is cold, then chances are it will overflow when it actually warms up. But if it overflows and doesnt do it again with out you filling it back up, then I say you are ok.

 

ok, let me tell you again...i had the car a norm operating temp, it was running for more than 30 min, i had it topped off, didn't put a drop in the overflow jug. After a few days of driving the overflow was overflowing, too full...and the rad had a crap load of "free space" after i opened it. Before someone thinks that it is because i didn't put any in the overflow...i have done that also, full operating temp, put cap on and filled jug to 2nd line, i assume that would be the hot level if you think about hot liquid expanding. After a few days, overflow is overflowing. So what else can you guy think is wrong, the overflow being not filled correctly has nothing to do with it.

 

Im going with headgasket here. I've seen the same thing in a jrsc sohc and compression tests and cooling system tests showed nothing. It took about a month before the headgasket really showed itself. Thats why the coolant level rises with rpm because theres more compresison leaking in. Just do the headgasket its cheap and easy. Its only a sohc.

 

check your plumbing!!

if you have the heater hooked up wrong it will do this!!

one pipe should goto the themo housing..

the other to the head under the vtec sol (on dohc motors)

cuz if you did somthing wrong, the coolant may not be flowing when the valve is closed!

 

About the headgasket, wouldn't there be coolant in the oil at least from where the gasket is pushed out.

 

thanks for the help...keep the ideas comming.