I doubt this an original idea but anyone ever try just buying some cheap front fenders like from certifit and having a body shop cut out the rusty part of your quarter panels and mold these on? I cant think of any reason why this wouldnt work.. most people buy full quarter panels when all they need replacing is the area around the wheel well. Let me know if its been done before or if you can think of any reason why this wouldnt work..

Oh BTW, hello HT.. haven't posted in a damn long time. Im still looking for cheap ways to replace or repair the parts damaged by the wood pile falling on my car.. plus I need a new clutch, passenger side front axle, brake rotors and pads, interior carpetting, new valve cover, and some front and rear strut tower bars..

God I miss trying to make my car go fast.. replacing **** sucks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nine &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

God I miss trying to make my car go fast.. replacing **** sucks. </TD></TR></TABLE> werd!

 

I remember your thread about the wood pile falling...me and Archidictus convinced somebody they could buy a forcefield. I would say a bodyshop would do better just having some quarter panels off of a wrecked car (with front end damage of course). If you plan to do hat, I would just ge some sheet metal for them to mold. At least they won't have to try and pull the existing shapes out of the metal to reshape them.

 

I don't get the buying front fenders to fix your quarter panel?...
Maybe I'm not reading it right...

I'd just call around to some junkyards... they'll usually cut out a section of a 1/4 for you...

 

or mayyyybe you can hire jesse james to bang you some 1/4 panels out of sheetmetal.
ummm noo

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I remember your thread about the wood pile falling...me and Archidictus convinced somebody they could buy a forcefield. I would say a bodyshop would do better just having some quarter panels off of a wrecked car (with front end damage of course). If you plan to do hat, I would just ge some sheet metal for them to mold. At least they won't have to try and pull the existing shapes out of the metal to reshape them. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ROFL!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ROFL!</TD></TR></TABLE>

You remember that??

 

I want a force field...............................

 

All Im talking about is cutting a patch off a front fender from the wheel well to about three inches above the wheel well that is horizontally as long as you would need to be to get rid of the rust. That has to be cheaper and easier then molding a brand new piece of sheetmetal.. its not like the dimensions for the area directly around the wheel well is any different then that of the quarter panel's dimensions around the rear wheels.. As for the junkyard suggestions, that was the first thing I looked into to fix this problem but I came up empty handed.

 

hey man thats a good idea just kinda pricey. unless u can cut and weld yourself. most junkyards(or at least locally) will not part out a nice 1/4 panel. so the fender thing would be better. you can weld the metal together grind it and touch it up with some body filler of ur choice.

 

I think it would work just fine. With the radius of the front and rear wheel wells being exactly the same, there's no reason it shouldn't work. And it's definately a much cheaper route. One fender could possibly fix two fenders (depending on amount of rust).


Check http://www.partstrain.com &lt;-----CHEAP ($56.95)

 

"the radius of the front and rear wheel wells being exactly the same". it is not. the radius of the front wheel well is a 1" wider and has a different shape (the circle).

 

Can someone comfirm that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c-way &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"the radius of the front and rear wheel wells being exactly the same". it is not. the radius of the front wheel well is a 1" wider and has a different shape (the circle).</TD></TR></TABLE>

that was my point...

They're NOT the same... They don't even look similar...

A junkyard would be more than happy to sell a section of a 1/4 if part of it was damaged... not to mention I don't think a junkyard would charge much for a whole 1/4 depending on the yard...

You have to find one that just likes moving stock. Some places (like mine) sit on cars for WAY WAY too long trying to get every last dime out of them... others try to make good deals to get rid of it fast.

where are you located... I'm sure there are more junkyards then the ones you tried...

Try this...

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=562808

it's a junkyard locator.

Also as mentioned it may not be much cheaper unless you're doing it yourself... possibley a little ... and you want to be SURE that the shop that does it if you don't, does NOT lap-weld it... you want it butt-welded... if it is lapwelded and they don't use a weldable primer on ALL sides of the donor piece and your car (and even if they do) it will rust again later probobly MORE seriously.

 

Ok, im not letting this go so easily, even though i might be making myself look stupid.. I called a few shops today just to bounce the idea off of them, and they said it should work since ur taking such a small amount off the wheel well from the fender.. and btw, my Helms says the wheel base for 3 doors is 2570mm. It doesnt specify front or back.

On a different note, that Junkyard locator might really be helpful.. I was just looking through my yellow pages. Im gonna give that a try before I pursue the whole patching idea.

 

Im also looking into this:

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/sh...=2868

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nine &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im also looking into this:

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/sh...=2868</TD></TR></TABLE>


Hell go for it man, can't beat how much it cost. Only it won't work if it's rusted all the way through.

 

Dude you don't want your car that bad. Heres what you do: rob a bank, give me your car and just get like a RHD ITR...or just call local body shops.

 

I'd recomend using por-15 over doing body work yourself...

You have to prep the metal and all but you leave the rust there... then you can sand it down and body color paint over it...

por-15 will stop rust and is sandable (it's pretty tough going but it sands)... and you don't have to remove all the rust scale...

My buddy used it on the entire floor area of his 70 impala... it was rusty and crappy as hell looking before... felt all soft and weak... now it feels like it's made of NASTY strong steel... the por-15 is supposed to add rigidity...

http://www.por15.com/

It's a little expensive but a little goes a LONG way. DO NOT use it w/o using at least their metal prep... you can use something other than their Marine Clean but frankly I'd just use it as it is a very good cleaner and doesn't leave residues that will mess up the bond.