More negative camber does what to toe?
If you are getting the camber by lowering the car, then you get the fronts toe in / \. If you are using some kind of camber adjustment (ball joints or otherwise) I think the toe stays the same.
on my Integra, the increased negative camber from the adjustable balljoint toed the front end in. Something like 3/4" toe in... at the installed -3.5 or something degrees of camber
The steering arms are at the Rear of the upright.
If you push the top of the upright inboard - increasing negative camber - since the steering tie rod is fixed in length, you are pivoting the upright about the axis defined by the lower ball joint and the outboard steering tie rod end.
The wheel will then Toe IN.
If the steering arm was at the front, the reverse would be true - you'd get toe out.
ITACRX - the only way increasing negative camber wouldn't affect toe on one of these cars would be if you achieved it without moving any of the ball joints relative to the chassis. One way of doing that would be to bend the upright to change the hub axis. This is fine for IT class cheaters, but not really applicable to tuning adjustment.
Scott, who recommends you take measurements from the edge of the ball joint carrier to the edge of the Skunk a-arm, and make a little table of how many degrees per inch change in ball joint location, then make another for how many inches of change in toe per degree change in camber, and then figure a value for how many turns of the tie rod adjustment per fraction of toe. I've got all this in my chassis notebook, and it saves me alot of time. Sometimes I can make a change and have everything dead nuts on the first time I drop the car back down. Other times, well, you know how it is.
If you push the top of the upright inboard - increasing negative camber - since the steering tie rod is fixed in length, you are pivoting the upright about the axis defined by the lower ball joint and the outboard steering tie rod end.
The wheel will then Toe IN.
If the steering arm was at the front, the reverse would be true - you'd get toe out.
ITACRX - the only way increasing negative camber wouldn't affect toe on one of these cars would be if you achieved it without moving any of the ball joints relative to the chassis. One way of doing that would be to bend the upright to change the hub axis. This is fine for IT class cheaters, but not really applicable to tuning adjustment.
Scott, who recommends you take measurements from the edge of the ball joint carrier to the edge of the Skunk a-arm, and make a little table of how many degrees per inch change in ball joint location, then make another for how many inches of change in toe per degree change in camber, and then figure a value for how many turns of the tie rod adjustment per fraction of toe. I've got all this in my chassis notebook, and it saves me alot of time. Sometimes I can make a change and have everything dead nuts on the first time I drop the car back down. Other times, well, you know how it is.
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JDMhatchback20
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Nov 17, 2004 09:06 PM




