hi i was wondering if anyone has instructions on how to take off the valve cover of a b18c5 motor...i might be getting a mugen cover and i want to know what work i have to do to get the old cover off and the new one on...thnax

 

you have got to be kidding me...?

tell you the truth, i cant say search, because i dont think this has ever been covered. haha, dont know how many people ask Q like this.

anyways. take your plugs out. take all the 10mm bolts off. and take off valve cover. watch the gaskets. and put the other cover on, and tighten the bolts. not too tight or else they will snap


perfect time to get a helms manual

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by baonest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take your plugs out. take all the 10mm bolts off. and take off valve cover. watch the gaskets. and put the other cover on, and tighten the bolts. not too tight or else they will snap

perfect time to get a <U>helms manual</U></TD></TR></TABLE>

+ me open oil cap when takin cover out

http://www.helminc.com/

baonest : I wanna see big picture plz!!

 

Yes, it's very easy, just be careful with the nuts when you put it back on. The 10mm nuts will snap VERY EASILY

get a helms manual it's well worth the $$$

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by baonest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyways. take your plugs out. take all the 10mm bolts off. and take off valve cover. watch the gaskets. and put the other cover on, and tighten the bolts..................</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know you meant plug wires, just clarifying for him.

Mattj

 

Don't forget the hondabond when putting the new gasket on

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TypeR 599 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't forget the hondabond when putting the new gasket on </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why?

 

oops I put mine gasket on dry. It doesnt seem to be leaking any. Oh well I will have to replace mine again anyway when I put my new Spoon valve cover on. Will it hurt if it was put on dry??

 

Why not be on the safe side? It helps prevent oil from leaking.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dropspeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I know you meant plug wires, just clarifying for him.

Mattj</TD></TR></TABLE>

And please keep the wires in order. And be sure to not tear the gasket.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TypeR 599 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It helps prevent oil from leaking.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Uh, thats what the gasket is for.

If you hondabond it, you will need a prybar to remove it next time.

RJ - who had to take a prybar to a water pump last weekend because it was honda-bonded (well permatex 2B) to the block.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Uh, thats what the gasket is for.

If you hondabond it, you will need a prybar to remove it next time.

RJ - who had to take a prybar to a water pump last weekend because it was honda-bonded (well permatex 2B) to the block.</TD></TR></TABLE>

SOMEBODY doesn't read his Helms thoroughly!

Helms tells you exactly which spots to put hondabond on...

 

Hondabond is not cement. the gasket will come off again without much effort. I've done taken the valve cover on and off numerous times and used hondabond everytime. I've never had problems with leaks, I'm going to keep using it because it's a cheap sense of security.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Uh, thats what the gasket is for.

If you hondabond it, you will need a prybar to remove it next time.

RJ - who had to take a prybar to a water pump last weekend because it was honda-bonded (well permatex 2B) to the block.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you dont NEED it, but light coating doesnt hurt in some spots, especially around the plug holes and cams. Itll also help so you dont have to torque down the 10mm nuts so tight and risk breaking the stud. To each his own.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you dont NEED it, but light coating doesnt hurt, especially around the plug holes. Itll also help so you dont have to torque down the 10mm nuts so tight and risk breaking the stud. To each his own. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I wouldn't recommend putting hondabond anywhere else but at the spots Helms tells you to...and torque those nuts to spec....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I wouldn't recommend putting hondabond anywhere else but at the spots Helms tells you to...and torque those nuts to spec....

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Righty-O-Man!


Mine came from the factory with Hondabond in those spots. When we did my valve adjustment, we just cleaned it up, reapplied it, put a new gasket on and voila.

 

My point was that you dont just hondabond the whole gasket surface of the block and valve cover...

You cant just say "use honda bond" to someone who's asking for instructions on taking the valve cover off (this is not a bad thing!!!!!).

 

I used hondabond instead of a headgasket, was that wrong?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used hondabond instead of a headgasket, was that wrong?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope.

And if you are *really* good, you can make a new timing belt out of it too!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Nope.
And if you are *really* good, you can make a new timing belt out of it too!</TD></TR></TABLE>

My toda timing belt smells funky...i think it's defective

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by typeR564 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ... anyone have instructions?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I opened this up just to see what lame question/request went with such a vague title ... and I was rewarded!

Ed -- who needs to read the rest of the responses now.

P.S. If you can afford a Mugen cover then take it to a shop and have it done.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My toda timing belt smells funky...i think it's defective</TD></TR></TABLE>

If its still golden its ok.

Try tasting it. If it doesnt taste JDM anymore, its defintely gone bad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Try tasting it. If it doesnt taste JDM anymore, its defintely gone bad.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wasabi?

 

Golden!?!??!!!!?

Fugg...mine is red....obviously a cheap faux ebay belt....damn...i got 0wn3d

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fugg...mine is red....obviously a cheap faux ebay belt....damn...i got 0wn3d</TD></TR></TABLE>

If it breaks you can just hondabond it back together though