I'm going to be replacing my d16a6 with a newer a6. Old one has something very wrong with it, dunno, haha. Anyway, I wanted to know if there were any sites that can walk me through it. I've looked at the online helms etc and gotten some info from those. I have a very limited amount of time to do this in since I am borowing a garage. Is it possible for me to get this done in 1 day?
When I start, I don't plan on stopping until its finished, unless I need a part afterhours or something.

What are some parts that I should have on hand that I'll need or might need just in case etc?
I'm only replacing the block, basically from the valve cover to the oil pan. Not replacing the intake mani or exhaust mani so it should be really simple. Much easier than the time I helped out with a 2000 mercury mystique with every option in the book.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

Oh yeah, if anyone in Maine wants to help out lemme know, I might be willing to throw some cash your way!

 

lol
hey dude, do ou have any service manuals other than the online one? I have a couple FSM's for the car on my computer.

I'd help but you know more than me so I probably wouldn't help so much.

Dr.

 

dude, d series are very quick to put in, especially if you already have the wiring for the MPI. since its a 1.6 its alreadyw ired for it. so youre straight for a one day thing. me and my bro can take a motor out in about 45 minutes to an hour. good luck bro

 

Since you're replacing your motor with the same motor then the swap is pretty straight forward. I would just label your vacuum hoses so you know where they go on the new motor. Just put it all in the way you took it out. Not much more to it than that. Before you do it though, you should definitely let all the motor mount bolts soak in pb blaster or WD40 for a couple of days. This will speed up the process quite a bit. Also, you should get an air compressor and some air tools.

 

Thanks for all the help. It really seems like it should be simple. I just concerned with time because I was told by a friend who's done a few engine swaps (but never an a6 for a6) that it'l take me two days.

I just found a sem-good writeup online http://www.phatwhippincrx.20m.com/custom.html

That's for taking the whole thing out in prep for a b16 swap but makes everything seem so easy, haha.
When I start the whole deal it's gunna be like 8am and I'm not going to stop until it's done!

http://www.thezcr.com/html/d16remove.php another write up


Modified by TiggsCRX at 3:19 PM 2/10/2004

 

ive done three motorswaps into my hatch, all single cams, it only took us 1 day to get it in the car and running.

 

Hey Matt, would you mind laying out any pitfalls or "help-to-knows" before I get started on my A6-for-A6 longblock swap? Like is it possible to just unbolt the manifolds and drop the engine down, or does it all have to be all torn apart and brought up?

Thanks man!

 

Basically you want to unhook any lines the go from the motor to the chassis.

Unhook the engine harness from the shock towers

Unhook the grounds

Drain the coolant

Drain oil

Take out the axels and unhook the header from the catback

unhook your throttle and clutch cables

unhook the fuel line from the fuel rail

And unhook any vaccume lines that go from the intake manifold to the evap canister and map sensor on the fire wall.

Then unhook the shiftlinkage under the car from the tranny. Take off the clip and hit the pin out with a hammer and a 1/4" extension or use and air hammer and bit.

Then take off the front crossmember and you should be able to take unhook the motor mounts and drop the motor through the bottom.

I might have missed some stuff but its so simple. I've done probably 15+ d series and 15+ bseries motor swaps. After you have done it you should be able to have them swapped in a few hours and have the car running again

Make sure you have a complete set of metric tools. A pickle fork. 32mm socket for the axel nuts or 1 1/4" I believe it is. And a friend. But you dont always need someone to help. It makes the swap much easier though

 

what i did when did a block swap:

disconnect all coolant hoses, vacum lines (might wanna label these), and sensors from the motor.

if you have a cherry picker, then hook it up and jack it up until theres some tension in the chain. take out all the mount bolts. (three on the back tranny mount, one on each side mount, and one on the front mount). take out the bolts on the tranny that might be hard to get to when you have the engine on the ground, and then put down maybe some cardboard or some type of padding, and drop the motor onto it.

take out all hte transmission bolts, and yank or pry the sucker off. take off the clutch, pres. plate and flywheel and bolt them to the new block (make sure to use a torque wrench on these bolts and use a clutch alignment tool as well, it will make your life much easier when you're trying to put the tranny back on.)

take off the valve cover and unbolt the head from the block. get a friend to help you carry the new block over, and bolt the head onto the block. some people say to not reuse the head bolts, but i reused mine and i'm going on 5000 miles with no problems. you will want to go to whatever autoparts store is in your area and get a new head gasket and put that in. they're inexpensive and you may as well replace it while you have the head off. so now you have a complete motor. bolt on the tranny (your clutch and stuff should already be on.) hook it up to the cherry picker again, and line it up on the two top mounts. bolt the two top side mounts in, and then the rear tranny mount, then the front. when thats all finished, then start hooking up wires/vacum lines/coolant lines etc. any hose wire or coolant line that came off should hook back up somewhere. if it doesnt, then you have bigger issues than i can solve. when you think you're done, take 10 minutes and relax. go have a coke, mabe ash your hands (which should look like adam sandlers foot in the movie "Mr. deeds" by now) and watch some tv for about 10-20 minutes. then go back to it and inspect all oyur work for about 10 minutes. making sure every wire and line is hooked up. wires like to hide from you, so look closely. Fill the radiator with water/antifreeze, pour in some oil, and replace hte oil filter. once you feel satisfied, get in and crank her up.

and if you dont have a cherry picker... go rent one.

the parts list goes a little something like this: 10MM 12MM 14MM 17MM 19MM 32mm sockets and wrenches (excluding a 32 wrench), a socket driver, screw drivers, a head gasket for a d16A6, 3.5 qrts of oil, your faavorite brand of oil filter, a galon of antifreze, a clutch alignment tool, and put aside about 50-100 bucks for various other expenses. you'll be glad you did.

this is kinda the ghetto fast typed version. theres really more to it, but i assume if you're swapping an engine, you'll know the basics, or else you're smart enough to figure it out.

 

check out my sig, as well

the swap is very easy, basically you just need to jack it up , pull the axles, disconnect the header, shift linkage, remove all the vaccum and radiator hoses, unclip the wiring harness, remove the battery, intake, and put on the engine hoist, after you have that in place unbolt the mounts from the body and pull the engine out, then swap your tranny on to the new block, swap the mounts and ****, if your new motor has the harness already on the motor that will save you some time but if not then swap the harness, then hoist it back up and drop it in, and start reconnecting ****. its very simple the important part is to have all the right tools since your in a time crunch,

you will need a half inch ratchet, 12, 14, 17, and 19 mm sockets, a 32mm socket for the axle nut, a good breakover bar, a 3/4 inch ratchet and the same sockets listed above, you need deep and regular style sockets. You will need a pickle bar, or aka ball joint separator, a set of punches for the shift linkage, and this is optional but can be helpful, a fwd axle puller.

thats it, good luck its not hard at all can be done in a day if you dont **** around.

 

no need to do any pulling of the axles to take an engine out. just unbolt everything that is conected to the engine. mounts, tranny, and all your vacuum lines and plugs, and shake that bitch out, it helps if you shake it like a polaroid picture.

edit: take off the alt, bracket and the crank pulley, p/s pump as well. you'll need all the room you can get to slide it off the input shaft.

 

i assume hes going to be reussing the axles , so he wouldnt want to do that as he might **** them up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowpokesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i assume hes going to be reussing the axles , so he wouldnt want to do that as he might **** them up</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kyle h. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it helps if you shake it like a polaroid picture. </TD></TR></TABLE>