Corner Balancing.. How to's, or additional info/articles.
Ok guys. Im about to attempt cornerbalancing my car myself(w/my local region SCCA scales), I found one helpful HT thread and a GRM article.
Anyone else have any helpful links, or articles concerning cornerbalancing?
My main ?, is how do I know what I'm shooting for... ie I have heard when you take your car somewhere, they can help you achieve the *setup* you want.
Obviously I want neutral handling, but how do I go about acheiving this in a FWD car? 50/50 would be great, but I would be moving weight off the drive wheels, and as far as I know that is basically impossible unless you move physical weight inside the car (ie battery, fuel cell etc.) I can really only adjust the LF/RR or RF/LR, or cross weight?
The car is a 97 ITR. GC coilovers/Koni yellows, OEM sways, Autopower race bar.
here are some tips I've received so far
Disconnect sway bars and strut bars
Set tires at racing psi (at least where you start your first run at)
Set adjustable shocks to softest setting
Either simulate driver’s weight, in driver’s seat area, or have someone of similar weight sit there!
Have ride height set where you think you want it.
Have any adjustable alignment pieces set to racing specs. However, don’t worry about having a perfect alignment. Final alignment is done AFTER cornerbalancing, as changing weights will affect the alignment.
After taking each reading and making changes, shake car or roll off scales to settle everything.
TIA
Anyone else have any helpful links, or articles concerning cornerbalancing?
My main ?, is how do I know what I'm shooting for... ie I have heard when you take your car somewhere, they can help you achieve the *setup* you want.
Obviously I want neutral handling, but how do I go about acheiving this in a FWD car? 50/50 would be great, but I would be moving weight off the drive wheels, and as far as I know that is basically impossible unless you move physical weight inside the car (ie battery, fuel cell etc.) I can really only adjust the LF/RR or RF/LR, or cross weight?
The car is a 97 ITR. GC coilovers/Koni yellows, OEM sways, Autopower race bar.
here are some tips I've received so far
Disconnect sway bars and strut bars
Set tires at racing psi (at least where you start your first run at)
Set adjustable shocks to softest setting
Either simulate driver’s weight, in driver’s seat area, or have someone of similar weight sit there!
Have ride height set where you think you want it.
Have any adjustable alignment pieces set to racing specs. However, don’t worry about having a perfect alignment. Final alignment is done AFTER cornerbalancing, as changing weights will affect the alignment.
After taking each reading and making changes, shake car or roll off scales to settle everything.
TIA
I am curious as to why you would disconnect the swaybar, as I understand it from dealing with my own car it's not under tension if the car is static.
Also, why would the tire pressure matter?
Cheers,
Sean
Also, why would the tire pressure matter?
Cheers,
Sean
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CXr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Disconnect sway bars
only if they are adjustable</TD></TR></TABLE>
to expand a little, he means adjustable as in endlink length, not stiffness. if you aren't going to remove swaybar preload after adjusting the cross weights, i see no reason to adjust the crossweights. you'll have to look into adjustable endlinks for your stock swaybars to do this right.
in an ideal world the swaybar isn't under tension with the car sitting static. in the real world that isn't so. build tolerances in the chassis and ride height variances at each corner combine to put some amount of preload on the swaybars.
tire pressure matters because it affects ride height at a corner. a low tire will reduce weight carried by that corner and the opposite diagonal while increasing the opposite corner and diagonal. ie, a low left front will give an erroneously low lf/rr percentage and correspondingly high rf/lr percentage.
nate
only if they are adjustable</TD></TR></TABLE>
to expand a little, he means adjustable as in endlink length, not stiffness. if you aren't going to remove swaybar preload after adjusting the cross weights, i see no reason to adjust the crossweights. you'll have to look into adjustable endlinks for your stock swaybars to do this right.
in an ideal world the swaybar isn't under tension with the car sitting static. in the real world that isn't so. build tolerances in the chassis and ride height variances at each corner combine to put some amount of preload on the swaybars.
tire pressure matters because it affects ride height at a corner. a low tire will reduce weight carried by that corner and the opposite diagonal while increasing the opposite corner and diagonal. ie, a low left front will give an erroneously low lf/rr percentage and correspondingly high rf/lr percentage.
nate
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
in an ideal world the swaybar isn't under tension with the car sitting static. in the real world that isn't so. build tolerances in the chassis and ride height variances at each corner combine to put some amount of preload on the swaybars.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ahhh, otay.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
tire pressure matters because it affects ride height at a corner.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Doh! Painfully obvious that one, not enough coffee yet this morning I guess.
Thanks nate.
Cheers,
Sean
in an ideal world the swaybar isn't under tension with the car sitting static. in the real world that isn't so. build tolerances in the chassis and ride height variances at each corner combine to put some amount of preload on the swaybars.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ahhh, otay.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
tire pressure matters because it affects ride height at a corner.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Doh! Painfully obvious that one, not enough coffee yet this morning I guess.
Thanks nate.
Cheers,
Sean
Another thing to check cause I've seen a bunch of people forget to do it...
Please, make sure the scales are level with each other. Front to back. Side to side. corner to corner. Shims work wonders to bring them all up to the proper height.
Without this there is no point in computing the cross weights.
Please, make sure the scales are level with each other. Front to back. Side to side. corner to corner. Shims work wonders to bring them all up to the proper height.
Without this there is no point in computing the cross weights.
So, with my OEM sways I should or should not disconnect them?
Also, does anyone have anymore links/write ups to this procedure?
Also, does anyone have anymore links/write ups to this procedure?
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My rear bar has adjustable length endlinks and spherical bearings. I've found that attached or unattached makes only a minute difference when scaling (a couple of pounds at most), so I leave it attached.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DsR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Set adjustable shocks to softest setting
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why does that need to be done?
Set adjustable shocks to softest setting
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why does that need to be done?
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