Bolt-in or clip-in harness ends?
bolt in ends or clip-in and eyebolt style? Right now my harness has bolt in style ends with the lap belts bolted to stock mounting points (lower door pillar and seat frame). I'll soon be adding fixed back seats and will have to mount one side of the lap belt to the tranny tunnel. I'll also be mounting my sub-belts at the same time. I shouldn't have a problem just bolting the end of the lap belt to the tranny tunnel, but when it comes to the sub-belts, is it acceptable to bend the end at a 45 degree angle to get the proper mounting angle to route the belt up through the sub-belt hole in the seat, or should I get new ends all the way around on the harness and go the clip-in and eyebolt route?
Hope that makes sense!
And for the record, YES I do have proper rollover protection (Kirk 4-point)
Hope that makes sense!
And for the record, YES I do have proper rollover protection (Kirk 4-point)
It really comes down to the angle of the force. If you bend the bolt-in plate such that it is pulling in the same direction as the bolt, the plate acts as a lever on the bolt head. You would much rather have the force on a bolt-in plate going perpendicular to the direction of the bolt. The clip in mounts, on the other hand, can be pulled in the same direction as the bolt. So choose the mounting type on the direction you're pulling. For me, that required clip-in lap belts and bolt-in sub belts, but your setup might be different.
You want to be sure that the ends are placed in tension - being pulled on in a straight line - when the belt is loaded. If you pull on the lap or crotch belts and the end is put in a bending load, it's bad.
Snap-in ends are self-straightening to a degree so tend to be a better answer.
K
Snap-in ends are self-straightening to a degree so tend to be a better answer.
K
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bull »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone have pics of their set-up for reference . . . just so I can make sure we're on the same page? Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>
what he said!
what he said!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bull »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone have pics of their set-up for reference . . . just so I can make sure we're on the same page? Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I can snap some pictures tomorrow, but there's not much to see. Just some eye-bolts on the side with clips and the sub-belt bolted to the floor under the seat. Was there something specifically you wanted to see?
I can snap some pictures tomorrow, but there's not much to see. Just some eye-bolts on the side with clips and the sub-belt bolted to the floor under the seat. Was there something specifically you wanted to see?
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I'm particularly interested in seeing how you bolted in the sub-belt. I'm a bit of a newb, sorry if it seems like a no brainer.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bull »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm particularly interested in seeing how you bolted in the sub-belt. I'm a bit of a newb, sorry if it seems like a no brainer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Okay, I'll see if I can get a picture in the next couple of days when I get a chance to pull the seat. In the meantime, search the archives. I KNOW there are pictures of good sub-belt mounts already posted.
Okay, I'll see if I can get a picture in the next couple of days when I get a chance to pull the seat. In the meantime, search the archives. I KNOW there are pictures of good sub-belt mounts already posted.
the big plus as kirk mentioned is that with using the eyebolt and clip in links, the angle is going to be as straight as possible, without unecessary bending as with the flat link.
the OTHER big advantage is that if you have a bigass cam lock and have that lap belt thru the hole in the seat which is not big enough for the camlock to go thru, then you have unbolt the anchor in order to fully remove the seat. quite an annoying nuisance when you just want to remove the seat.
so just get the clip ins. and i think tech inspectors will look for the piece of lock wire in the link for it to pass, no biggie.
the OTHER big advantage is that if you have a bigass cam lock and have that lap belt thru the hole in the seat which is not big enough for the camlock to go thru, then you have unbolt the anchor in order to fully remove the seat. quite an annoying nuisance when you just want to remove the seat.
so just get the clip ins. and i think tech inspectors will look for the piece of lock wire in the link for it to pass, no biggie.
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