Im Thinking about Converting a 90 Crx Dx Automatic to a Manual. The car is immaculate both in and out, no rust, super clean interior, low mileage, etc. So it seems worth it? Has anybody done one? How did it work out for you? How hard or long is this job? Is there a big difference in performance after the conversion? Including an estimated labor fee, How much cash do you guys think i would be Looking at? Thanks!

p.s. what kind of transmission can i put into a CRX? I mean is it limited to a Crx or Civic, if that?

 

I really wouldn't bother converting cause it can be a pain...but if your really hardcore about switch to manual just go to a local pick n parts place grab a z6 tranny and go from there. It would have been a lot better if you had gotten manual Dx model this way you wouldn't have to put the money into conversion...that's why i got manual got a 91 crx si better gas milage and more power.


Modified by jgcrxsi at 9:14 PM 2/9/2004


Modified by jgcrxsi at 9:28 PM 2/9/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jgcrxsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...grab a z6 tranny and go from there... </TD></TR></TABLE>

The 92+ tranny will NOT work in the ED (88~91) chassis. Don't get a Z6 tranny because it's 92~95.

You can use ANY manual transimission from an 88~91. The Si has the better gearing and the DX has gearing for economy. You can even get a ZC tranny if you want, but to keep costs down I would shoot for an Si. That should give your car a little more pep.

I bought my Si tranny for $50. I opened it up and replaced the bearings which may not be necessary if you buy a guaranteed good tranny. The bearings ran me about $90?? I can't remember... it's been a while.

Anyway - you will need a DX ECU from a manual tranny car. You will also need the rear motor mount and the side tranny mount. Other than that, you have to get shift linkage, pedal assembly, clutch cable, and getting a new clutch assembly wouldn't hurt.

It shouldn't run you more than $350 in parts if you don't get good prices.


I would further suggest that you also do the DPFI to MPFI conversion and run the Si ECU. This would be a noticable performance mod to go with the manual tranny.

 

Sorry I'm buggin today I meant to say grab a si tranny 5MT along with a ED936 chassis

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4drEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would further suggest that you also do the DPFI to MPFI conversion and run the Si ECU. This would be a noticable performance mod to go with the manual tranny.</TD></TR></TABLE>

but yea might as well do a full conversion to an Si model...if do this it'll be a bit costly no matter what...would have saved a lot of money in the beginning if possible to have found a manual either Dx or Si instead but yea.

 

DX is lighter than the Si. It's actually a better chassis to begine with for building performance on.

 

awesome thanks. Also, are there any known flaws performance wise? I mean will my car not run as strong as a car that was originally manual? give me a heads up.

p.s. since this is my prolly my last post per 24 hour period, how do i become a member and not a trial user? i hate not being able to post haha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by keepltsteady &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">awesome thanks. Also, are there any known flaws performance wise? I mean will my car not run as strong as a car that was originally manual? give me a heads up.

p.s. since this is my prolly my last post per 24 hour period, how do i become a member and not a trial user? i hate not being able to post haha</TD></TR></TABLE>
IF you take your time and do it right, there should be NO difference between a swapped manual CRX and one that was built that way at the factory.
You're full member status starts after 21 or 25 day "trial period". Just hang in there and don't break any rules and you will become a full member by the end of the month.
And to add, You can use any D series trannys that are 1991 or OLDER, only.
Z6 trannys WON'T work.(well, they could but thats a whole other project)

 

im also gonna do this conversion
i got an 88dx automatic with dpfi cuz it was clean and good condition and had low miles

just more work for me
was wondering if theres a writeup on the net if somebody else has done this, to me it looks harder than doin a motor swap, then again i know more about that then the tranny swap

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88JPRCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im also gonna do this conversion
i got an 88dx automatic with dpfi cuz it was clean and good condition and had low miles

just more work for me
was wondering if theres a writeup on the net if somebody else has done this, to me it looks harder than doin a motor swap, then again i know more about that then the tranny swap</TD></TR></TABLE>
Search in "archived topics" for: tranny swap or tranny conversion or manual to auto. Or any combo of those words.
This has been covered a million times.
Its not a hard swap from what I've heard just a real PITA to get the pedal assy out.

 

my 1991 dx was auto to manual swap... make sure to also pull the key ignition switch and discon the thing that keeps your key in the ignition unless in park.. otherwise your key wont come out.. haha.. and also your reverse lights wont work without wiring them up... also the gauge cluster has to be rewired along with the ecu... but it is very much worth the work..i picked up my linkage and pedal assembly for 50 bucks from a junk yard.. as far as the trans goes i did a b16 swap so i already had mine.. good luck.. anymore questions just ask.. it is not to bad of a swap to do

 

I have done many auto to manual swaps, I have a lot of info on them to. Need any help feel free to IM me. Here is basically what needs to be done.

Stuff you will need

Manual trans
Manual flywheel
Manual flywheel bolts
Manual Ecu
Shift linkage
Shifter
Pedals

Side trans mount and rear trans mount from a manual, the pedals will probably be the hardest part. Here is some more wiring to help you out.

Installing the pedals (have fun):



This part sucks. Droping steering column and removing drivers seat makes life easier at this part. I cannot tell you how many nuts hold the assembly to the car, i can say it is all nuts though. One is really tricky to find and get to. You need a swivle, deepwell 12mm and 2 six inch extensions. It is above the air vents and steering column. Have fun getting it out. Remove cotter pin that holds brake pedal to brake booster. There is also a nut and bolt for it. Remove the gas pedal from automatic pedal assembly and move to manual assembly so the cable plugs up, or switch cable. Install the clutch cable through gromet that honda left on firewall in factory location. Rebolt all the nuts to the car that hold the pedal assembly.



Removal of the transmission:



To remove the transmission (you should know how to do this otherwise don't attempt). Please check my work with a chiltons or haynes manual as i will not be held responcible for damages that incure from this install. Remove both axels. Unbolt the bellhousing, remove the mounts (3 of them) and remove transmission, this is a unusually large tranny, it might require the whole engine coming out depended on how patient you are. I had the whole thing out cause i was putting a DOHC ZC in. Unbolt the torque converter from the motor, install flywheel (make sure not to reuse automatic flywheel bolts).



Installing shift linkage



This is a fairly simple task, remove the old auto shifter by removing 2 bolts on top and 2 on bottom. Then drill 2 holes where honda welded over them as picture below. Then simply install as a normal linkage would be. Take a piece of thin metal and glue to a piece of abs plastic and epoxy it on, the metal is to deflect heat and the plastic is to keep the heat form transfering inside.





Installing the transmission:



Torqure manual flywheel bolts down at 76 footpounds of torque. Install clutch with alignment tool, torque bolts down to 25 ft lbs. Before you install it all back there is one extremely important thing about the rear mount. Honda left 2 spots to mount the rear mount with 3 sets of holes, two are threaded, one is not. You need to move the mount location to the one that is threaded and then thread the other and place a bolt in there. Reassemble as specified in honda manual. Put new manual axels in.



Wiring with diagrams:



Drag two wires from under the hood (yellow and green on tranny) for the reverse lights to work when you are in reverse. Please note that the R light on the instrument cluster will not work without some decent knowledge of relay wiring. Connect these to wires to the ones pictured below



I found this one out the hard way, the key will not come out unless the car is in park and um, you dont have a park anymore. To fix this you can make the car think its in park all the time. Please understand, by doing this the P will be on in the instrument cluster all the time. This can be corrected one of 2 ways, disconneting the light or some extensive relay work.



This one is needed to crank the car because it no longer has a neutral or park. It is one of two plugs with only 2 wires. This one is easy to spot because it has two heavy black wires instead of the other with two yellow wires. Just connect them in a simple loop, or with some relay work to the clutch pedal because some decent current goes through them directly to the starter. I just left it like picture and allways crank the car with my foot on the clutch.

 

pm sent