Anyone try this tool? Does it work? The stardard size fork tool is too small for my car

http://www.drivewerks.com/cata...3.htm

 

That tool sucks ***.

Go to autozone and look for the tie rod puller/separator...

Looks like this (under the loctite)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That tool sucks ***.

Go to autozone and look for the tie rod puller/separator...

Looks like this (under the loctite)

</TD></TR></TABLE>

1000x's better then a pickle fork.

nate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 577HondaPrelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone try this tool? Does it work? The stardard size fork tool is too small for my car

http://www.drivewerks.com/cata...3.htm

</TD></TR></TABLE>

go gawd, don't get that tool
get the one .RJ is talking about

also called a pitman tool
those are the only ones i'll use

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also called a pitman tool
those are the only ones i'll use</TD></TR></TABLE>

The pitman tool that autozone sells is the same tool but much larger... i am not sure about other stores though.

 

i got mine from autozone they were 10 bucks for the small size and 15 for the larger

u use the larger for the lower ball joint, and the smaller one for the tie rods ,and upper ball joint

 

'removal' tools suck.

upper joint and steering joint = BFH

Lower ball joint = search = https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=446576

 

Do not buy the bigger pitman puller!

I have tried that on the CRX and Amused's RSX, its just too big to work very well! not to mention it was $40! Harbor freights smaller one (about 2" wide ID) is much better

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Want2race &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have tried that on the CRX and Amused's RSX, its just too big to work very well! not to mention it was $40! Harbor freights smaller one (about 2" wide ID) is much better</TD></TR></TABLE>

The tool was ~$8 at autozone

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Willard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">'removal' tools suck.

upper joint and steering joint = BFH

Lower ball joint = search = https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=446576</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats easy for you, your car is new, and the joints have been popped often

try popping joints on a much older car that never had suspension work done

 

thanks guys

 

The autozoo tool... works wonders.

 

the "we-todd" method is nice, but it doesn't always work with short stroke suspensions without much droop.

[e] I use the pictured autozone tool


Modified by sackdz at 1:10 PM 2/9/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Willard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">'removal' tools suck.

upper joint and steering joint = BFH

</TD></TR></TABLE>

couldnt agree more , but I use a BFH for the lower ball also

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boilermaker1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The autozoo tool... works wonders.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

The only method that works for my is the "lift up the hub with a floor jack and jam a big bar between the LCA and the b-joint and then lower the jack while hammering whatever you can reach with a BFH method."

The fork can damage the joint/boot (ask me how I know).

 

The Autozone kind mentioned above worked very well for me. They cost much less at Harbor Freight Tools if there's one in your area:
http://www.harborfreight.com/c...36861

 

A little WD40 and let is soak in fo a few minutes and about 2-3 wacks with the hammer on this.......



And your good

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92 civic VX B18c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And your good</TD></TR></TABLE>

But the balljoint boots are not.

 

Did anyone consider using the Honda/Acura tool? Nice, as in you get what you pay for.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92 civic VX B18c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A little WD40 and let is soak in fo a few minutes and about 2-3 wacks with the hammer on this......And your good</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nothing good can come using "wacks with the hammer"- especially on your rubber boots. I suggest using a more civilzed tool such as the "ball joint remover" described in above posts.
After all, how many people have used "Lyonel's ball joint remover" at the track? (the most popular borrowed item)

 

I've used the autozone tool on my car and a prelude, it works great. I didn't think anybody else used that tool.

 

hmm, I'm assuming the upper ball joint (UCA) can't be removed this way? I ask because I hope to purchase some front SPC offset ball joints so I could increase the front negative camber later on this year...

 

The tool isnt for removing the joint from the arm, its for separating the arm and the hub.

The joints are pressed in/out.

 

i used the tool to remove the upper ball joint on integra arms and prelude arms. You have to make sure there is enough contact on its "claws" before you start to turn it w/ the wrench