B18/B16 Shift Linkage?
i know i cant use my Ls Cable Shift linkage,unless i waste 150 plus shipping from HASPORT,but i was wondering if i could use the Linkage from a B16 or B17 on my Ls trans?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by justinh595 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">modify the ls linkage, thats what everyone else did when good old hasport wasn't around. takes about an hour if you can weld.</TD></TR></TABLE>I would not recommend cutting something and weakening the structural integrity of a part that is in constant motion. It's worth it IMO to spend the 150 and get the right linkage for what you need. I personally will never buy anything HAsport again, but their shift linkage has never given me problems, and after doing a motor swap, peace of mind is definitely a nice thing to have. Just my .02
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by justinh595 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> weld.</TD></TR></TABLE>
go to an auto shop let them know what your trying to do. Cut & weld.
I have an 88crx w/LS, ran me $80
I live in Oakland, ca. So finding a shop willing to do this type of job wasn't
hard. Good luck.
go to an auto shop let them know what your trying to do. Cut & weld.
I have an 88crx w/LS, ran me $80
I live in Oakland, ca. So finding a shop willing to do this type of job wasn't
hard. Good luck.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid Invasion »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would not recommend cutting something and weakening the structural integrity of a part that is in constant motion. It's worth it IMO to spend the 150 and get the right linkage for what you need. I personally will never buy anything HAsport again, but their shift linkage has never given me problems, and after doing a motor swap, peace of mind is definitely a nice thing to have. Just my .02</TD></TR></TABLE>
heh, cut and weld hold up just as well if the job is done right and for a hell of a lot cheaper then the HASport peice.
heh, cut and weld hold up just as well if the job is done right and for a hell of a lot cheaper then the HASport peice.
haha, my chopped and welded shift linkage feels much better than the hasport shift linkage my friend has(his is really weird going into 5th gear). and as long as you can weld and keep things clean it wont look bad or be any weaker than stock. paint it up nice too so it wont rust. i got my ls linkage for free from a local junk yard and it took me about 1 hour to modify it. if you were to ask me thats alot better than paying 150+ shipping from hasport. but i'm a thrifty kind of guy i also made the mounts for my swap too.
The other problem is that Hasport mentions they will only sell the linkages if you buy their mounts. 
I have the tranny parts of the linkage and stabalizer still on the B16A tranny, they were chopped off with a torch. Anyone see anything wrong with me just cutting up my stock linkages and welding them to these parts? I'm good at welding, just wondering if there could be something I'm missing?

I have the tranny parts of the linkage and stabalizer still on the B16A tranny, they were chopped off with a torch. Anyone see anything wrong with me just cutting up my stock linkages and welding them to these parts? I'm good at welding, just wondering if there could be something I'm missing?
d series linkage arms are kinda criss crossed.. as apposed to b series.
the cut off part is only good for using the bushing inside it with your welded or hasport linkage
i've done both.. welded and hasport. both work great
do what you can.
the cut off part is only good for using the bushing inside it with your welded or hasport linkage
i've done both.. welded and hasport. both work great
do what you can.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jays91DXhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The other problem is that Hasport mentions they will only sell the linkages if you buy their mounts. 
</TD></TR></TABLE>I didn't buy their mounts and I bought their shift linkage.

</TD></TR></TABLE>I didn't buy their mounts and I bought their shift linkage.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by justinh595 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the only reason you would get more play after time is because the bushings are getting shot.</TD></TR></TABLE>Not true. If you don't put loc-tite on the bolt that connects the shifter to the linkage, it could vibrate loose and cause you to have more play, and then cause your shifter to not work when it falls out, like what happened to me. I'll never make that mistake again.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid Invasion »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't buy their mounts and I bought their shift linkage.</TD></TR></TABLE>
From this site: http://www.hasport.com/Products/Linkage.htm
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(Due to the large demand for this product, it is currently only availible with the mount kit part number EFB1, or EFB2 as a package.)</TD></TR></TABLE>
From this site: http://www.hasport.com/Products/Linkage.htm
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(Due to the large demand for this product, it is currently only availible with the mount kit part number EFB1, or EFB2 as a package.)</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid Invasion »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not true. If you don't put loc-tite on the bolt that connects the shifter to the linkage, it could vibrate loose and cause you to have more play, and then cause your shifter to not work when it falls out, like what happened to me. I'll never make that mistake again.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
we are not talking about bolts falling out, we are talking about custom shift linkages and how they are designed . its pretty obvious if bolts fall out, things aren't going to work properly.
</TD></TR></TABLE>we are not talking about bolts falling out, we are talking about custom shift linkages and how they are designed . its pretty obvious if bolts fall out, things aren't going to work properly.
Yea thats another reason i cant afford the HASPORT they wrote me and said that they will not sell just the Linkage.I dont need mounts.so as long as i dont half *** the welding i should be fine on this right?Oh thanks for all the quick Replies
ok, to modify the ls linkage to fit:
take your time and do it right no matter how long it takes you. if you mess it up your trans wont shift properly.
the easiest way is to have someone sit in the car and hold the shifter in the nuetral position and put the trans in nuetral also.
eye it up several times, have some type of marker or chalk to help.
it'll prolly take you about 10 times crawling under and back out to weld it. i just crawl under and eye it up where the new bend would have to be made and use a cutting disc to cut slits 90% through then just make the bend. if it needs a sharper bends put 2 or three slits and bend it. its much easier this way rather than chopping it completely in half and having to tac it to hold it in place. when you get the bend right just wrap a nice bead around it and move to the next bend. but dont forget where your exhaust is gonna be once its up and hanging, you dont want your linkage hitting the exhaust. when your done if your as picky as me you'll grind the welds down nicely and put a coat of paint on it so it doesn't rust.
good luck. make sure your buddy in the car doesn't fall asleep holding the shifter too cause you'll be really pissed when you think you got it just right and you get in to shift and 5th gear is in 1st's position
take your time and do it right no matter how long it takes you. if you mess it up your trans wont shift properly.
the easiest way is to have someone sit in the car and hold the shifter in the nuetral position and put the trans in nuetral also.
eye it up several times, have some type of marker or chalk to help.
it'll prolly take you about 10 times crawling under and back out to weld it. i just crawl under and eye it up where the new bend would have to be made and use a cutting disc to cut slits 90% through then just make the bend. if it needs a sharper bends put 2 or three slits and bend it. its much easier this way rather than chopping it completely in half and having to tac it to hold it in place. when you get the bend right just wrap a nice bead around it and move to the next bend. but dont forget where your exhaust is gonna be once its up and hanging, you dont want your linkage hitting the exhaust. when your done if your as picky as me you'll grind the welds down nicely and put a coat of paint on it so it doesn't rust.
good luck. make sure your buddy in the car doesn't fall asleep holding the shifter too cause you'll be really pissed when you think you got it just right and you get in to shift and 5th gear is in 1st's position
good weld
like the above said.. TAKE YOUR TIME !!.. dont rush it .. make sure you measure everything right and cut the right part of the linkage other wise your shifts are gonna be off. the way i do it is measure eveything out then make my cut then run over to OSH and get a piece of conduit that will slid into the linkage that way i can mark it and drill it and run a screw through that way i can fit it up before i weld it ... this also helps to hold the linkage straight while its being welded. i cant member what size conduit off the top of my head but i think somewhere around 1/4 inch.
like the above said.. TAKE YOUR TIME !!.. dont rush it .. make sure you measure everything right and cut the right part of the linkage other wise your shifts are gonna be off. the way i do it is measure eveything out then make my cut then run over to OSH and get a piece of conduit that will slid into the linkage that way i can mark it and drill it and run a screw through that way i can fit it up before i weld it ... this also helps to hold the linkage straight while its being welded. i cant member what size conduit off the top of my head but i think somewhere around 1/4 inch.
The other option would be: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...77629
I went to the wrecking yard today but they don't carry those parts on the shelf, I have to go get it myself.
It's damn cold outside here in Toronto. The only thing is if the car is on the ground with no tires, I can't get the linkages out.
I guess it's hit and miss hopefull there will be something up higher.
Jay
I went to the wrecking yard today but they don't carry those parts on the shelf, I have to go get it myself.
It's damn cold outside here in Toronto. The only thing is if the car is on the ground with no tires, I can't get the linkages out.
I guess it's hit and miss hopefull there will be something up higher.Jay
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hot86Accord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you guys cant make linkage motor swaps are gay just put the d series back in</TD></TR></TABLE> theres always one dumb *** in a post.i guess we found out who it was.thanks Hot86Accord for informing everyone that its you


