Completed Pix on Waterman fuel pump..It's running!
We now have the high side by pass installed and set for 110lbs. The fuel shut off 3rd port now returns to the tank also. All 3 return lines discharge at the bottom of the tank.
We had 2 nice surprises. The pump will produce 50lbs of pressure at 1000 rpm idle speed (500 rpm pump speed) and it takes only a couple of revolutions to get engine to starting pressure and the motor starts up as quick as with an electric pump.
I posted this for all the experienced heavy hitters to evaluate and offer any last minute suggestions.
We had 2 nice surprises. The pump will produce 50lbs of pressure at 1000 rpm idle speed (500 rpm pump speed) and it takes only a couple of revolutions to get engine to starting pressure and the motor starts up as quick as with an electric pump.
I posted this for all the experienced heavy hitters to evaluate and offer any last minute suggestions.
The tank is lower than the pump. You think that might be a problem????? I dunno.
Motor move at all or is it definately solid mount?
Anyways everything looks tip top.
Motor move at all or is it definately solid mount?
Anyways everything looks tip top.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teambergenholtz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The tank is lower than the pump. You think that might be a problem????? I dunno.
Motor move at all or is it definately solid mount?</TD></TR></TABLE>Pump is self priming and it even filled the system the first time on it's own. Motor is not solid but there is enough flex in all the lines to allow for any movement.
Motor move at all or is it definately solid mount?</TD></TR></TABLE>Pump is self priming and it even filled the system the first time on it's own. Motor is not solid but there is enough flex in all the lines to allow for any movement.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 30psiallday »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that looks nice ... are u gonna sell that as a kit if so how much for it?
</TD></TR></TABLE>We do sell it. IM me if you have an interest. I would like to put a couple more on cars at cost to get more units on B motors
</TD></TR></TABLE>We do sell it. IM me if you have an interest. I would like to put a couple more on cars at cost to get more units on B motors
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When we tuned Deepstage's car the first time on meth with 4 1600's, we were running out of fuel at around 660whp...
We will see what happens on the dyno, Leevon. It may be necessary to go to 8 injectors but our calculations still say it can be done with 4. We are not shooting for ultimate power with this motor. Would be real happy to start with just consistent good power.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When we tuned Deepstage's car the first time on meth with 4 1600's, we were running out of fuel at around 660whp...</TD></TR></TABLE>We may find that out ourselves too, Tony. We are counting on the Waterman to make the difference. We know our chassis won't take all the whp that may be available, anyway.
If the fuel pressure remains constant, then the mechanical pump shouldn't make a difference, right? Fuel pressure wasn't an issue with deepstage's car, it didn't drop at all. How much power are you looking for?
Great job guys. You had me a little worried about pressure spikes on let off in your other post. I got that sorted out with a good long chat with the guys at aeromotive who built my fuel system, seems my regulator does all the work of your high speed valve, whatever the base pressure is the release pressure is, no need to worry about spikes as long as my return line is big enough -8 now in my case we did the calculations on the phone so I am now satisfied we are good to go.
is there any kind of lines that you can run that you dont have to keep draning the meth out of the lines in fear of them corroding or whatever it is happens. i am not sure if its with alcohol or methanol, or even if they are the same?? but i'm sure any of you guys could quikly answer theese questions. 
also on that mechanical system do you still need to run a regulator???

also on that mechanical system do you still need to run a regulator???
just make sure to clean and insect the motor after every outing and make sure to run gas through the system after every event and if it sits too long same. Im sure tony and ron can add more to this.
um... all I know is that with meth you must pickle it after every race with race gas, running a couple minutes with the race gas. As far as lines go once you get a taste of Kevlar lines you will not want to ever go back to standard stainless steel earls line. That **** will always somehow ***** the **** out of your fingers when you put the fittings on it. Aeroquip or goodridge are the best. I personally use aeroquip. They last aboput a year and a half of racing and then they harden to ****. We replace all our lines every year and half from our experience.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ModenaTwinTurbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
also on that mechanical system do you still need to run a regulator???</TD></TR></TABLE>
absolutely
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ModenaTwinTurbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there any kind of lines that you can run that you dont have to keep draning the meth out of the lines in fear of them corroding or whatever it is happens.</TD></TR></TABLE>Everything aluminum has been internally annodized. I think you still must drain and flush however.
also on that mechanical system do you still need to run a regulator???</TD></TR></TABLE>
absolutely
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ModenaTwinTurbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there any kind of lines that you can run that you dont have to keep draning the meth out of the lines in fear of them corroding or whatever it is happens.</TD></TR></TABLE>Everything aluminum has been internally annodized. I think you still must drain and flush however.
looks good when you finish racing all you have to do is drain the meth then pull spark plugs put some regular fuel in tank then cycle like you are going to start and the regular fuel will lubricate all the moving part even the inj. that is what you have to worry about is lube then do the opposite drain fuel put in spark plugs and crank with meth you will be ok. first in hotrod class to use methanol.


